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The Evolution engine (popularly known as Evo) is an air-cooled, 45-degree, V-twin engine manufactured from 1984 by Harley-Davidson for the company's motorcycles. It was made in the 1,340 cc (82 cu in) displacement for Harley-Davidson Big V-twins bikes, replacing the Shovelhead engine until 2000 when the last EVO ...
Our selection of motorcycle engines and accessories includes everything you need for your Harley-Davidson, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha and Honda. If you're looking for performance, J&P Cycles has all the brands that are synonymous with horsepower, including S&S Cycles options for Twin Cam, Evolution, Shovelhead, ...
HI I THINK IT IS BEST TO FIRST SHECK THE COMPRESION IN THE CYLINDERS, USING A COMPRESION TESTER FITED INTO THE SPARK PLUG HOLE, SPIN OVER THE ENGINE AND CHECK THE READING RECORDING IT, ON PAPER FOR EACH CYLINDER WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED THIS ON ALL 4 CYLINDERS CHECK OVER YOUR RECORDED NOTES, IT IS NOT ALWAYS LIKELY THE READINGS WILL BE AS SPECIFIED IN THE WORKSHOP MANUAL AS A BIKE OF 10 YEARS OLD WOULD HAVE LOST SOME OF ITS ORIGINAL COMPRESION, BUT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR A READING SIMILAR ON ALL 4 CYLINDERS, IF 1 IS SIGNIFICANTLY LESS THEN YOU COULD HAVE A PROBLEM WHERE THE PISTON OR PISTON RINGS HAVE FAILED, 1ST TRY THE AFORE MENTIONED CHECK BEFORE YOU START GETTING INVOLVED IN ANY EXPENSIVE REBUILD, IF YOU WERE TO REMOVE THE ENGINE OIL FILLER AND RUN THE ENGINE, IT WOULD BE QUITE NORMAL TO EXPERIENCE SOME SORT OF PRESSURE HERE ALTHOUGH IT COULD GET MESSY AS OIL WILL EMERGE, HOPE THIS HELPS
First, bleed the master cylinder. You do this by loosening the line nut on the output end of the master cylinder, press the foot pedal until it sinks all the way down, tighten the nut, release the pedal. Continue to do this in this EXACT sequence until all the air is out of the master cylinder.
Then using the EXACT sequence, bleed the rear brake caliper or the rear wheel cylinder. If your bike is equipped with drum brakes, you'll have to adjust the brake shoes to the drum.
Very important, DO NOT ALLOW THE MASTER CYLINDER TO RUN DRY DURING THE BLEEDING PROCESS. Make sure that the small hole in the bottom of the master cylinder is clear.
Low compression can be caused by either worn or stuck piston rings or by a valve seating problem (which can be in the valve seat, a worn cam or in the rocker/push rod assembly between them). The way to determine is to start with a cool engine (meaning the rings are dry), run compression test on the cylinder in question (or all if you like, I would) then put a little bit of oil in the cylinder/cylinders and re-run the test. If the compression comes up it is the rings. If not it is in the valve not seating properly. Of course after you put oil in the cylinders when you start the car don't be alarmed at it smoking for a couple of minutes until the oil burns out. That's normal.
3 things to check 1 / check for fuel at cylinder is spark plug wet with fuel if so go to 2 . if not check carbs butterfly / jets etc ?.
2/ compression .. remove spark plug and fit compression tester should attain between 120 t0 150 psi or be in green for none numbered meters .. if not suspect valve seatings or cylinder head gasket ?. or compresion rings . if ok
2 check for spark at plug place plug in cap and place on side of engine turn over and look for good spark ( some plugs spark when out of cylinder but break down under preassure I am sumising you tried a new plug first ) if no spark check ignition /distributor cap and rotor arm clean and refit or replace . if all fails then can only suggest that you take to garage and have a tune test performed .. hope this helps.. Regards vortash