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When to adjust idle

I realize this should probably be done when warm, but should it be done before starting or while running (if i can keep the bike from stalling)?

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If you can keep the bike running long enough to get it warm with and with no choke then that is when you should adjust the mixture,
First though start by adjusting it cold so the screw is set at about 1.5-2 turns out then run till warm set idle at around 1500 revs and adjust until it just starts to lift the revs then back off a quarter turn

Posted on May 03, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: wont run /idle

i'd start with removing the carbs and giving them a thorough cleaning as when bikes sit for so long, the carbs begin to get gummy/varnished from the old gas.

check for blocked holes in the pilot jet & main jet and look for "hard & dried up" gas in passages. be careful of the float bowl gasket as to not tear it or you will need a replacement.

Posted on Mar 06, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: Idle adjustment

If there is not a screw on the side of the carb then look at the top of the carb where the throttle cable connects. The fitting at the top of the carb is threaded and would adjust the carb idle. There may be a similer adjustment at the twist grip but I don't remember one there.

Hope you can rate this solution as a 'FixYa'

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: Tuning problems with 1985 Honda CR125

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.


Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: stalls once warmed up

I have the same bike, Ca. model. Idon't know how much work you have put into the carbs, but you may have more than one problem. You can pull the pet ****, disassemble it and check to be sure the diaphragm is not sticking (i.e. due to moisture getting into it and setting and not running it enough to fully dry out everything, ) you can be a little rough with it, cause if it fails, it needed to be replaced, It works off a vacuum tube off cyl 2 and once vacuum is established, it opens the valve-- hence you don't have to turn the valve to "off" to prevent fuel from seeping into the carbs n flooding them while it sits .Pull the diaphragm n stretch it a little with the sun or bright light behind it to check for tiny pin holes. One tiny pin hole will mess with things in funny ways. Replace ir they're cheap.The whole pet **** as a unit--- cheap enough anyway. Then as with most small displacement older bikes the carbs have to be treated like royalty. Pull em and cleanem. Check for proper float height, this allows for proper fuel levels in the carb,small discrepancies will disturb the movement of fuel and there are four planets that have to be aligned throuhg all this to end up happy down the road. If the float pins n springs are worn replacem they do one thing only -- start the process. Then pull each jet n **** them with the exact pin drill for that jet, if a tiny bit of varnish or dirt comes out off the drill--- you just saved private Ryan. You could take the time to run the carbs (as a unit don't separate them) to a local bike place n pay to have them ultrasonically clean them along with all you do , while your in there you might as well get the rebuild kit n go for it. Then check for worn throttle valves, the pressures and speeds of fuel in its liquid state are crazy in a carb and will wear the finely measured distances between the valve and the body. Very complex and moody stuff that only gets moodier with age , like my old lady. This is all doable at home If not take the time to find the guy who works on the older Japanese bikes because they will know what you NEED to do n what you don't. Then after the carbs are back in, the synching begins. No synching no bikeing. The guy that has a manometer and an isolator rod is not the guy you should have for this. Someone with a manometer, an isolator, and an emissions machine is your guy. The fuels then are not the same as the fuels now. Remember leaded fuel? Anyway at the end of all this you will have fixed the problem, and that old bike will be a hot rod. AND it will PURR. Hold on when you hit the magic 7000. This is a major minor job that will permanently fix you to your bike.
Good luck don't forget new vacuum hoses and fuel lines and the filter n look for air leaks in the air box the old plastic warps, and new plugs........

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

finish line
  • 207 Answers

SOURCE: after warm up bike will

make sure your turning the idle adjuster to the right

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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1 Answer

What are standard settings for idle and air mixture screws


The idle speed will be dependent on model, particularly if 4- or 2-cycle, 2, 4, 6 cylinders, etc. If your engine uses carburetors, I'd say no less than 600 RPM, maybe up to 850 RPM at idle. If your engine is fuel injected, the computer should set the idle speed and air mixture for you (if it's functioning correctly), and a big twin could idle as high as 1150 RPM .

Your Idle air mixture settings are important for proper idle. A good approach is to let the engine tell you what it likes. For this method you will need either a tachometer or a vacuum gauge. Here are some steps to guide you.

1) If the engine will start and run, go from there. If not, a good initial setting is to turn the idle screw(s) all the way in (GENTLY--don't break the seats!), then back them out about 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns.
2) Attach either your tachometer or vacuum gauge to your engine. Tach is connected to the ignition system (usually at the coil); vacuum gauge would be connected to a manifold vacuum port. (The bike's built-in tach MAY work for this, but they are often not graduated finely enough.)
3) If using a tachometer, warm up the engine. Working on only one idle mixture screw at a time, begin turning it IN until RPM begins to decrease. Then back the screw OUT again until you achieve maximum RPM on that screw. Feel free to "play," turning the screw in and out until you achieve highest RPM at at minimum turn-out (if you leave it turned out too far, bike will run rich and foul spark plugs; if not far enough, bike will run lean and hot). Now do the other idle mixture screws the same way. Finally, go back and do all the mixture screws again (and again and again, if necessary) until all throttle bores are synchronized.
4) If using a vacuum gauge, engine temp is not as critical, but go ahead and warm it up anyway. Similarly to the tachometer method, turn the mixture screws in until RPM drops, then out until max vacuum reading at minimum turn-out. If you have multiple mixture screws, do the same on each, then repeat on all screws until you feel they are all synchronized.
5) Throughout the process of adjusting idle air mixture screws, you will probably have to adjust the idle screws to keep the engine in the RPM range you want it to idle. (If adjusting air mixture screws has no effect on the engine idle, the minimum requirement is probably a carburetor rebuild.)
6) Have fun getting to know what your engine "likes!"

Oct 14, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Honda shadow vt1100c 1986 idile to low after running awhile


There's an idle adjustment screw. The bike runs faster when cold because the fuel\air adjustment is richer on a cold engine. When the bike warms up, the fuel becomes more lean in mixture because the heat causes the fuel to expand, i.e., less molecules of fuel to the firing sequence of the piston. When the bike is warmed up, after say ten minutes, the heat causes a leaner mixture, so adjust the idle on a hot engine (about 1000 rpm more or less). The bike will idle faster when cold, then drop rpm's as the engine warms up. Good luck

Sep 17, 2013 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Can any one tell me what the settings are for the pilot scew on my benelli 491 rr carburettor


Start the bike and let it idle in neutral. Keep it idling for at least 8-10 minutes so the bike is good and warmed up. Once the bike is warmed up adjust the carburetor screw in or out little bits at a time until the bike idles at approx. 1800 RPM! Easy fix. Good luck!

Sep 16, 2013 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Overflowing of carburetor


Instructions
    • 1 Put your bike on the center kick stand either outdoors or in a well-ventilated garage with the door open. You'll need to run the engine, so don't make the mistake of doing that in a closed garage.
    • 2 Set up a powerful fan next to the bike to help keep the engine cool. The cooling fins on your bike's engine rely on the apparent wind created when the bike is in motion to keep the block from overheating. Since you'll be standing still, you will need to keep plenty of airflow on the engine.
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    • 3 Remove any body work or other obstructions so you have clean access to the back of the carburetors.
    • 4 Find the ports for each carburetor on the intake track. The port is a metal tube extending upward from the intake covered either by a rubber nipple or a screw. Each carburetor has its own port. Remove the plug (be it metal screw or rubber nipple).
    • 5 Attach the manometer lines to each of the carburetor ports. With the manometer face up, attach the leftmost line to the port on the leftmost carburetor and work from left to right. Keep the lines free of any kinks or obstructions that could interrupt the flow.
    • 6 Start the bike using as little throttle as possible, and let it idle until the engine is warm. Don't forget to turn on the fan to keep the engine from getting too warm.
    • 7 Locate the vacuum adjustment screws along the top of the row of carburetors on the shared throttle arm. If you need help figuring out what the arm looks like, twist the throttle hand grip slightly and you will see the arm move back and forth. A standard, four-cylinder bike will have three adjustment screws along the throttle arm.
    • 8 Read the manometer for carburetors one and two (beginning from the left). Turn the leftmost adjustment screw to bring the vacuum readings for those two carburetors equal to each other. Turn the screw clockwise slightly and back again to get a sense of the effect on your readings. Do the same for carbs three and four using the rightmost adjustment screw. When your settings are balanced for each pair, use the adjustment screw in the center to bring the two pairs into balance with each other.
    • 9 Adjust the idle (fuel mixture) screw to set the appropriate idle speed. You can call your local shop to ask about the proper setting or check the service manual for your bike if you have it. Make sure you are using the warm idle recommendation as, at this point, your bike is at full running temperature.
    • 10 Tweak your vacuum settings if the idle adjustment threw them off slightly. Keep working back and forth from the carburetor adjustment screws to the idle adjustment screws until you have an equal vacuum for the four carbs and your idle is smooth and running at the proper speed.
    • 11 Turn off the engine and remove the manometer lines. Do not forget to replace the vacuum plugs in the carburetor ports to seal the air intake and preserve the balance of your newly tuned carburetors.

Jan 14, 2013 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

2002 yamaha r1 it starts and runs great but idles at 3000 rpm when it gets warm


I have this problem on my 1998 r1 did you solve the problem?

Jan 10, 2012 | 2002 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Idle speed around 2000 rpm, 1st ride of the year , had this issue. I followed my Manual info and adjusted Cold and Hot adjustments. When restarted the idle was close to normal, but after a minute or 2...


Adjust the idle speed ONLY when the engine is at full operating temp. It should be idled at about 1000 RPM. It will probably be too low when cold and you may have to use the throttle control to keep the engine running until it gets completely warmed up. On the carburetor equipped engines, you cannot adjust the bike where it will idle cold and not be too high when it gets hot. The only way you can get this is with fuel injected models.

Good Luck
Steve

May 02, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Bike is back firing and bogging down when I get on the throttle. Need to know how to adjust carb.


Before adjusting the carb, has the bike been setting for a long period of time? Has anything been done to the bike that would change carb settings? If it's been setting, there is probably a gum build-up in the jets and fuel passages. If it sat all winter, my solution is to add 1/2 can of SeaFoam to the gas, lock down the front brake and rock the bike back and forth mixing the fuel and additive well. Start the bike and run at a high idle until engine temp is normal. Shut it down and let set for an hour or two, allowing the mixture to work in the carbs. Restart and run at high idle again. If it seems to clear up somewhat, ride the bike several miles to check if it worked.

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2006 Suzuki Boulevard C50 engine dies


Even though you probably don't have that many miles on the bike, or if you do have a lot riding time on it, it sounds to me like you need a valve adjustment. That's a high reving bike for that engine that works pretty hard so you might have 1 - 3 loose valves.

Dec 07, 2009 | 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C50

1 Answer

I have a vtr 250 that i cant keep running, it will start but as soon as the choke is taken off and i let it idle it stops, even taking it for a bit of a ride around the yard to warm up wont keep it going....


Try to adjust the idle speed Mr.If your bikes been sitting over winter there could be a blockage in the idle circuit in your carby,in which place it will need to be cleaned.....Was i helpfull??. hope this helped.

Dec 02, 2009 | 1999 Honda VTR 250

1 Answer

Need help with setting up my dell'orto phbd 14 bs carb for my mini crosser jus recently changed head for a 44mm big bore 3 port piston so need to reset my carb and dont know how to ? i,e idle screw and air...


first get the bike running, turn the idle adjustment up enough to keep it running. start with the air/fuel screw, 1 1/4 turn out. adjust the screw which ever way increases the idle 1/4 turn at a time, wait 10 seconds after every 1/4 turn to allow the engine speed to adjust. As the idle goes up you can use the idle screw to keep it in its normal range. at some point, the idle will start to come back down, this is when you want to start going the other way. idealy you want it set in the middle of the range of when it stopped increasing and when it started to decrease. If you are not able to reach this happy medium within the normal adjustment range, you will need to put the proper pilot jet in and start the process again. This should get you up and running, if it is a generic carb you may will have to adjust the jetting to get the bike performing its best after that, but thats another chapter.

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