2008 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide Logo
Posted on Mar 15, 2009

Ignition disassembly and reassembly

I have the knob off but the retainer under the knob on the neck of the ignition shaft is what I need to know how to get it off so I can remove the switch panel to add an aditional switch for passing lamps. Can you help me ? Darell

2 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 124 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 17, 2009

SOURCE: remove ignition switch from 2000 harley-davidson

To remove the ignition switch turn the handle bar fully to the right, turn the ignition switch to access position and with the key in the switch depress the tab under the switch with a small screwdriver (the tab is to the lower left under the knob) and while pressing down on the key, turn the key counterclockwise about 60 degrees. At that point the switch will pull out of the housing.

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Anonymous

  • 4565 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 21, 2011

SOURCE: changed out the head lamp bulb and the retainer

I don't know if the new bikes are like the older ones that I work on but for the 1994 models, it seems the wire clip connects under a tab on one side of the bulb then pivots over the bulb and then you squeeze the spring together to hook the longer ends under a tab on the other side of the bulb. I hope this helps.

Good Luck
Steve

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Schematic on a TSC10SA BAIT CASTING

I'm sorry, I don't have information on a specific TSC10SA bait casting reel. However, most baitcasting reels have similar components and can be reassembled in a similar manner. Here are some general steps you can follow to reassemble your reel:
  1. Place the spool back into the reel frame.
  2. Insert the spool shaft into the spool and secure it with the spool retainer.
  3. Place the side plate back onto the reel frame, making sure the spool shaft and spool retainer are in the correct position.
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  6. Place the handle back onto the reel and secure it with the handle screw.
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It's always a good idea to consult the manufacturer's manual for specific instructions and diagrams on reassembling your reel. If you have lost the manual, you can often find one online by searching for the make and model of your reel.
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How to disassemble a washing machine

The washer cabinet usually must be disassembled for repairs and some maintenance. The washer is connected to both the electric power outlet and to the water supply. Make sure the power cord and water hoses are disconnected before you disassemble the cabinet or tip it over for service. To disassemble a washer:
-To remove the control panel, remove retaining screws spaced around the panel. They are usually located under a piece of molding or trim that can be pried off. On some machines, you'll have to remove the back of the control panel, also held by retaining screws, to get at the working parts of the controls. Knobs on the control panel are usually friction-fit and will pull off. Some knobs are held by small setscrews at the base of the knob. Loosen the setscrews with a screwdriver or Allen wrench and pull the knobs straight off the shafts.

- To remove the service panel, remove its retaining screws, then spread an old blanket on the floor to protect the washer's finish. Make sure the machine and hoses are drained of water. Tip the washer over on its front or side to gain access through the bottom of the machine. The bottom of the machine generally doesn't have a service panel because it is usually open.

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Need to repace belt need to know how to remove a the arm to get the circuit board out

If your talking about the record lever just above the tape deck, there is a black plastic retaining ring at the top of the shaft. Pull this off with a pair of pliers. The arm will then slip off the shaft. On reassembly, just push the retaining ring back on. It sits in a groove in the shaft.
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How to replace the ignition on a 1991 oldsmobile cutlass cierra

If you mean the ignition lock cylinder:

Ignition Lock Cylinder CAUTION
If the car is equipped with an air bag, do not service the steering column or dashboard components. Extreme danger of air bag deployment exists even with the battery removed! Serious injury could occur. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Without Air Bag
  1. Place the ignition switch in the RUN position.
  2. Remove the lockplate, turn signal switch and buzzer switch.
  3. Remove the screw and lock cylinder. NOTE: If the screw is dropped on removal, it could fall into the column, requiring complete disassembly to retrieve the screw. To install:
  4. Rotate the cylinder clockwise to align cylinder key with the keyway in the housing.
  5. Push the lock all the way in.
  6. Install the screw. Tighten the screw to 14 inch lbs. (2 Nm) for adjustable columns and 25 inch lbs. (3 Nm) for standard columns.
With Air Bag CAUTION
Before proceeding, refer to Section 6 for information on disabling and enabling the SIR (air bag) system; otherwise, serious injury could occur.
  1. Turn the steering wheel so the vehicles wheels are pointed straight ahead.
  2. Place the ignition switch into the LOCK position to prevent undercentering of the coil assembly.
  3. Disable the SIR system. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  4. Remove the coil assembly retaining ring, then disconnect the inflatable restraint coil assembly. Let the switch hang freely if removal is not needed. To remove the coil assembly proceed.
  5. Remove the wave washer, then the shaft retaining lock ring with tool J-23653-SIR to push down on the shaft lock. Dispose of the ring, it is not reusable. Fig. 1: Special tool J-23653-SIR or equivalent is required for pushing down the shaft lock to remove the shaft ring 86818085.gif
  6. Remove the shaft lock, then disconnect the canceling cam assembly.
  7. Remove the upper bearing spring, race seat and race.
  8. Position the turn signal to the right turn (up) position.
  9. Remove the multi-function lever and hazard knob assembly. Unfasten the round washer head screw and signal switch arm, along with the turn signal switch screws.
  10. Remove the turn signal switch assembly by unfastening the connector from the bulkhead connector. Gently pull on the harness through the column and disconnect.
  11. Make sure the coil assembly does not become uncentered, this could happen if the centering spring is pushed down letting the hub rotate while the coil is removed from the steering column.
  12. Remove the inflatable restraint coil assembly with the wiring harness from the column assembly.
  13. Remove the wire protector, then attach a length of mechanics wire to the coil terminal connector to aid in reassembly. Then gently pull the wire through the column.
  14. Remove the key from the steering column lock cylinder set, then remove the buzzer switch assembly.
  15. Reinsert the key into the lock cylinder, turn it to the LOCK position.
  16. Remove the lock retaining screw, then the cylinder. To install: NOTE: Make sure all fasteners are securely seated before applying the necessary torque. If you fail to do so, component damage or malfunctioning of the steering column may occur.
  17. Install the lock cylinder assembly, insert the retaining screw, then tighten to 22 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm).
  18. Insert the key into the lock cylinder. Install the buzzer switch assembly. Turn the key to the LOCK position.
  19. Install the turn signal switch assembly wiring harness through the column, let the switch hang freely. Connect the wiring to the bulkhead.
  20. Insert the coil assembly wiring harness through the column letting the coil hang freely. Attach the turn signal assembly with the binding head screws. Tighten the screws to 30 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
  21. Attach the signal switch arm with the round washer head screw, tighten the screw to 20 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
  22. Install the hazard knob assembly and the multi-function lever.
  23. Install the inner race, upper bearing race seat and spring. Attach the turn signal cancelling cam assembly, apply grease for lubrication.
  24. Replace the shaft lock and install a new shaft lock retaining ring. Use tool J-23653–SIR or equivalent to push down on the shaft lock. The ring must be firmly seated in the groove on the shaft. NOTE: Set the steering shaft so that the block tooth on the race and upper shaft is at the 12 o'clock position. The wheel on the car should be straight ahead. Set the ignition switch to the LOCK position, as this will ensure no damage to the coil assembly.
  25. Install the wave washer, then attach the coil assembly, make sure it is centered correctly. Fig. 2: Centering the coil assembly is important in assembling the column assembly 86818086.gif

  26. Attach the coil assembly retaining ring, the ring must be firmly seated in the groove on the shaft.
  27. Gently pull the lower coil assembly, turn signal, and pivot (pulse) wires to remove any kinks that may be inside the steering column assembly. If you fail to do this you can damage the wiring.
  28. Complete assembling the steering column assembly.
  29. Attach the negative battery cable.
  30. Check the functions of the turn signal, make sure it cancels when turned on and the steering wheel is turned.
  31. Enable the SIR system. prev.gif next.gif

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I have a Kitchen Aid Professional 600, 6QT, 575 W mixer. I went to use it and the beater and the assembly that it attaches to dropped down in my mixing bowl! What holds this assembly up? I did not find any...

Hi DASCO474. This is not good... From the symptoms you describe your mixer’s Agitator shaft is dropping from the Planetary assembly. Something has caused the retaining clip and pin to break so allowing the agitator shaft to drop.
Fortunately the inspection and troubleshooting of the inside of your mixer is a DITY capability, particularly if your mixer is out of warranty. Just be sure to have the Parts List manual on hand. If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website at: http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home.
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> Enter the 6 character model number, in your case: KP26M1, and select one of the first two files listed under Parts List (47) (The first file, KP26M1XAZ4.pdf (304.18 KB), is for a -4 series model and the second file, KP26M1XAZ5.pdf (724.41 KB) is for a -5 series with slightly different insides, so make sure you have the correct Parts List manual.)
Turn to pages 4 & 5 entitled “Case, Gearing And Planetary Unit” for the disassembly and reassembly of your mixer, along with all the parts. Locate Illus. No. 28, Planetary Assembly and Illus. No. 34, Agitator Shaft. The parts which hold the Agitator Shaft within the Planetary are Illus. Nos. 9, Retaining Pin and 30, Retaining Clip. I suspect these parts have failed and will need to be replaced. Now the real fun begins!

To get to the Agitator Shaft gear you’ll need the following tools: a regular or Phillips screw driver, retaining clip pliers, and a small drift pin punch and a small hammer. After removing the Gearcase Motor Housing (mixer top) you will need to remove the Transmission Housing (Illus No. 4) and remove all the lubricating grease from the transmission housing and gears. This will allow you to remove Illus No. 7, 8, 9 & 10, Retaining Clip, Bevel Gear, Retaining Pin and Worm Gear Follower, respectively.
Once you remove the Retaining Pin (Illus. No. 9) the Planetary Assembly can be tapped down through the Lower Gearcase Assembly (Illus. No 11). With the Planetary removed, you should find all the parts which slide on the Agitator Shaft (Illus. Nos. 30, 31, 32, & 33) and pieces of the retaining pin, which should be loose in the base of the Planetary.
Besides ordering a new retaining pin and clip, you might want to reorder the Transmission Cover Gasket (Illus No. 6), too. You’ll also need to replace the grease you removed with new grease. Do not try to reuse any original grease as it may have ‘debris’ in it. You should use a food-grade grease that you can order online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call).
With your mixer apart and the grease removed from the gears you can check for any other unseemly wear and tear on the gears, too.
Here are five potential vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com; and Grainger.com (for grease). You should search for ‘food grade grease’ online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call). Prices can vary widely between vendors, so do some comparison shopping.
Here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/reassembly of a KA Mixer. The mixers displayed in the links are different KA models, but the principles are the same.
Between these three websites and their excellent pictures and descriptions and your Parts List manual, you should now be able to completely disassemble, determine what’s wrong, order the correct parts and reassemble your mixer.
Good luck. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution has helped you, please rate it, thanks! - hslincoln
Feb 03, 2010 • Food Mixers
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Our K45SS shaft cracked and beaters will not slide onto the shaft. Is a new shaft available and is it handyman replaceable?

Hi BLRWETLAND_S, from the symptoms you describe, it appears that your Agitator Shaft had cracked and needs to be replaces. The good news is that this can be fixed quite easily (OK, maybe a little effort) by yourself if you are a DITY type person, feel adventurous, and your mixer is not under warranty. Be sure you have the Parts List manual on hand. If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website: http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home.
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides> Enter the 6 character model number in your K45SSW, and select the file listed under Parts List (1), K45SSWH0.pdf (341.41 KB). Check to ensure it matches your mixer model.
Turn to pages 4 & 5, titled: Case, Gearing And Planetary Unit for the disassembly and reassembly of your mixer, along with all the parts. Locate Illus. No. 26, Agitator Shaft Assembly, which is what you need to replace.
You can order a replacement assembly and install it yourself. While you’ve got your mixer this far apart you can check for any other unseemly wear and tear on the on the gears and other components. Besides the replacement agitator shaft assembly and grease you might consider replacing the gasket and “O”-ring, too.
In order to get to release the agitator shaft from the planetary, you’ll need to remove all the lubricating grease from the gear case housing and from the gears. (This is when the job gets fun…) You’ll need a set of punches to remove the retaining pins and possible retaining ring pliers to get to the agitator shaft. Once removed, you’d reassemble in reverse.
You’ll need to replace the grease you removed with new grease. You should use a food-grade grease that you can order online (although I’ve seen automotive bearing grease used too – your call). Do not try to reuse any original grease as it may have ‘debris’ in it.
Here are five potential vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com; and Grainger.com. You should search for ‘food grade grease’. Prices can vary widely between vendors, so do your comparison shopping.
It can be messy but quite gratifying to diagnose and repair your mixer yourself.
Finally, here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/reassembly of a KA Mixer.
Between these three websites and their excellent pictures and descriptions and your Parts List manual, you should now be able to completely disassemble and reassemble your mixer, should you decide to go that route.
If you feel this repair is beyond your capability, then I would seek out a local small appliance repair shop in your area. KA Customer Care can give you names of local KA authorized repair shops in your area, but you can also do an online search to supplement what KA may provide you. Call to explain your circumstances and find out their hourly rate and get an estimate of what they think it would cost to repair your mixer. Also, always obtain three or more estimates – do some comparison shopping. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution was helpful, please rate it, thanks! – hslincoln
4helpful
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''start'' toast button no longer works on my kenmore toaster oven

Salton Model KTES8 toaster oven disassembly and repair
DISASSEMBLY
Remove two rear feet, each held by one screw.
Remove 8 screws holding back on.
Twist AC line cord grommet 90 degrees and slide off back.
Remove one screw on inside 2-1/4" from top on control side next to bell
(hard to see - hidden by wire insulation).
Remove 4 screws from bottom of wraparound case.
Push up case about 1/4" at the front to disengage locking tabs, then
gently slide back and spread sides of case, lift wraparound lip over the edge
it screws into, and then work the case towards the back until it easily
slides off.
Remove 3 knobs from right hand control panel (use flat blade of dinner
knife to gently pry on one side, then the other).
Remove screws that were hidden by knobs.
Remove two screws holding plastic control panel.
Remove 4 long screws and spacers holding circuit boards to plastic control
panel.
Remove plastic control panel.
Move circuit boards forward so they can be accessed. (be careful that after
disengaging the temperature control shaft from the circuit board that you
do not twist either the temperature control shaft or the knob shaft - they
will be reassembled by putting the shaft back into the slot.)

REPAIR
ZD1 Zener diode shorted - replace with 1N4742A (12V, 1W, NTE 142A, $0.99)
REASSEMBLY
Reverse ASSEMBLY instructions
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Replace ignition tumbler

STEP BY STEP Please Remember to Rate Me Thank You RejakWilson




WARNING: On vehicles equipped with Airbags, disable airbag system prior to performing service procedures.



  1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
  2. Remove steering wheel as outlined under STEERING WHEEL procedure.
  3. Using a screwdriver, pry cover from housing.
  4. Using lock plate compressing No. J-23653 or equivalent, compress lock plate, and pry snap ring from groove on shaft, Fig. 5. Slowly release lock plate compressing tool, then remove tool and lock plate from shaft end.
  5. Slide canceling cam and upper bearing preload spring from end of shaft.
  6. Remove turn signal (multi-function) lever.
  7. Remove hazard warning knob retaining screw, button, spring and knob.
  8. Remove pivot arm.
  9. Wrap upper part of electrical connector with tape to prevent snagging of wires during switch removal.
  10. Remove switch retaining screws and pull switch up from column, guiding wire harness through column.
  11. Reverse procedure to install.



  1. Remove turn signal switch as outlined under TURN SIGNAL SWITCH.
  2. Remove buzzer switch and spring clip. On 1990-92 models, ignition key must be removed from lock to remove buzzer switch. On 1991-92 models, switch and spring clip are one assembly.
  3. Turn lock cylinder to Run position on 1989 models or Lock position on 1990-92 models, then remove lock cylinder retaining screw and the lock cylinder.
  4. To install, rotate lock cylinder to the stop while holding housing. Align cylinder key with keyway in housing, then push lock cylinder into housing until fully seated. Lock cylinder must be in Run position to install buzzer switch.
  5. Install lock cylinder retaining screw, then the buzzer switch, turn signal switch and steering wheel.
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