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How to wire coil

Trouble shoot no spark how to test stator

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You are on the right track. Think ECM input.

Posted on Aug 23, 2014

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SOURCE: No Spark, No Power coming from CDI to coil

Check the wiring on the connector plugs make sure all the wires are the same color on both sides, red to red blue to blue and so on. I had the same problem After replacing a stator and just plugging it in,after two weeks a new cdi and coil i noticed there were two wires transposed.

Posted on Oct 13, 2012

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Having trouble getting spark on a 91 to 93 ,250 4 stroke . changed coil new spark plug ,


The stator may be your problem. Sometimes a faulty stator can test good on a ohms meter, but under a load may not supply the spark needed to fire up the motor.

Sep 24, 2016 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What wires to test coil and stator. no spark.


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Jan 06, 2016 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do I get spark?


Hi, Ben and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose.
6. Faulty ignition coil or ignition / electronic module
7. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
10. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
How to diagnose no spark situation on motorcycle
TROUBLE SHOOTING
No spark on plugs or in coils
motorcycle no spark

Jul 03, 2015 | Power Motorcycles

1 Answer

Have spark out of stator but no spark at plug


I need more info like model and displacement. There can be a lot between those two items. Like coils and plug wire and let us not forget the resistor cap which fails from heat over time. Use an ohm meter or better yet multimeter and follow a youtube did showing ignition trouble shooting lesson.

Aug 29, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

When the engine is hot, it shuts down hard to start. the power is very low sometimes no power.


the first thing you will do, is to check the primary winding of stator through spark test and try to replace the parts of ignition system that may cause of trouble.. ex. spark plug, ignition coil, CDI stator assembly....check also the wiring of ignition system for the shorted wire...

Dec 01, 2010 | Pro-Fit Pro.Fit MI-3600 LoBoY w/miCradle...

1 Answer

CAR TURNS OVER BUT WILL NOT START HOW DO I TROUBLE SHOOT FOR IGNITION COIL ISSUES..


have you tested each wire with a spark tester (available at a parts store for around $10) to verify a lack of spark? there are resistance reading for the primary and secondary circuits in the coils that are pretty accurate testing. but that info may only be available from a repair manual. however, you could remove the coils and test all in comparison to each other. no spark from ALL wires would suggest a possible bad crank or cam sensor, or even a bad ignition module

Sep 13, 2010 | 2002 Pontiac Grand Am

2 Answers

No spark from spark plug wires I think it may be the distributor cap or interior parts under cap like rotor and condensor but dont want to change parts thats are fine i replaced the plugs but still no...


There wrere two types of HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributors used by GM in 1985, one was the original design with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap, and the second had the coil mounted seperate from the distributor and used a coil wire.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also if the coil is seperate from the distributor that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


GM HEI Ignition Coil (Mounted In Distributor Cap Type)
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Jul 30, 2010 | 1985 Chevrolet Chevy

1 Answer

Hi i have an 05 crf150f it wil not get spark at all i have replaced my coil,wiring harness but my stator is getting spark. i think it might be the rev box (cdi)please help me i am tired of fixing it over...


well the stator doesn't give spark it give voltage and if you test it and the is voltage and you have replaced all that stuff with good ones then it is your cdi box.

to test the stator for voltage take a multimeter on the ac scale and test the output of the stator while kicking the bike over if you have voltage rising and falling then your stator is fine. if not you will need to test the pick coil in the stator area for a ground pulse this is what the cdi box uses as a reference for the position of crank shaft and piston. just like a crank sensor in a car. if there is ground pulse there when you back probe the wires coming out of the pick up then your cdi is for sure the issue. if you have any more question please ask. good luck

Sep 22, 2009 | 2005 Honda CRF 150 F

1 Answer

Yz250F has no spark


your pickup coil is most likely bad.there are five wires coming out of the left stator side. three yellow or white and the other two are the pickup coil. trace them to the connector under the seat or tank . unplug the connector and check for continuity, if none is there , the pickup coil it is bad. yamaha sells the stator and the pickup coil together. very costly , you can buy the pickup oil off ebay for about $30.00.
becareful as the screws holding the pickup coil in are lock tited in and need to be heated to remove them without damage.

goodluck, edbiggs

Mar 01, 2009 | Yamaha YZ 250 F Motorcycles

1 Answer

KMX WONT START


try replacing spark plug 1st set at proper gap. next take plug cap off wire by unscrewing it from wire. hold 1/4" from motor and crank. if none, trim 1/8" off wire and retry. your pulser coil could be out. get multimeter, get service manual, find resistance reading,unplug stator/pulser coil plug(S) follow manual test procedure for testing stator coil, and pulser. check ign coil,make sure grounded to frame,clean rust, check resistance readings(manual) or test system w/ known good unit. lastly check wiring for continuity if no fire.

Feb 19, 2009 | 2001 kawasaki KMX 125

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