Question about Harley Davidson Motorcycles

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Primary chain tensioner

I get a squeak from the left side of my bike when I getup to 25-30 mph. Could it be my primary chain tensioner?

Posted by Anonymous on

1 Answer

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 40,757 Answers

Hi Anonymous, take a ride or drive over to your local dealers service/parts department, I'm sure they will be happy to take your Harley Davidson for a test ride if necessary and offer professional advice and assistance concerning your issue. Have a nice day.

Posted on Jun 14, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Mitchy123
  • 216 Answers

SOURCE: noise on left side of bike,maybe primary

thees 2 adjustments - one on the cable, one in the primary....

stand the bike upright and remove the derby cover. Looseen the jam not on the cable adjuestment ( under rubber boot). Move the adjuster till u see alot of freeplay at the hand lever. Loosen the lock nut on th e clutch basket and then u can turn the center adjuster screw all the way in until lightly seated. Then u back it out 1/2-1 turn and tighten the adjuster jam nut . Then u go back to the cable adjustment and take up the freeplay till the hand lever feels right to u...... tighten that down, button up the primary and take her fer a ride........ let me know if that helps

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: how to change primary chain tension on 2007 Harley

Sorry, not up on new hogs but I think you remove plate off outer primary,it's got the foot peg mounted on it.Look through hole and you'll see the bolt that holds the chain support unit.Carefully loosen bolt and pry up or down,tighten or loosen, tension.You don't have belt right? some newer ones do.If you want hi-tech and yours doesn't have one already remove the outer primary and replace the "skidplate" adjuster with a roller type.Makes things quiet.There is room in the hole to check that you don't get chain too tight.

Posted on Mar 24, 2010

sardanadixit
  • 813 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 01 ultra classic with a rattling sound

Does the sound come even when the bike is stalled and you accelerate it? If yes, then it must be timing chain and in case the noise comes only when the bike is moving, it must be the primary chain.

Posted on Apr 15, 2010

Testimonial: "great help thanks"

  • 623 Answers

SOURCE: i have a clinking noise coming from my primary

If you did not have the noise before the service, guess what caused it, yep the service. So something was not done properly.
It almost sounds as if the primary chain has too much slack and is hitting the inside if the primary case when in de-cel mode.
I am thinking that the primary chain tensioner has been improperly re-installed or damaged.

Posted on May 26, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2000 FXST

The primary chain is supposed to have 5/8 to 7/8 inch up and down play in the top run of the chain with the engine cold. I think it's 1/2 to 5/8 inch hot but I've never set the tension on a hot primary chain.

But, if you say you heard a crunching noise, then the engine started running rough and popping out the exhaust, I'd suspect something to do with the ignition timing. The ignition timing is controlled by the pulses from the crank position sensor on the right flywheel.

If I were you, I'd pull the primary cover, take the compensator sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly off, pull the rotor and the stator of the alternator. Then pull the sprocket shaft seal out and take a look at the Timken bearing. While you've got everything off, take the plugs out and turn the engine over and feel for any roughness. It may be time for an engine overhaul. I've only seen Timken bearings fail in one Shovelhead engine but they do fail. Hopefully, you'll find something much simplier and less expensive than this wrong.

Good luck
Steve

Posted on Aug 14, 2010

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How do i reset the timing on 2001 2.7l concorde if the chain was replaced and the timing is off


Did you take pictures while removing the originals? It's always a good habit. Below are the instructions you need to follow. Your own pics are very helpful when doing a big job like this.
  1. Disconnect negative battery (1) cable.
  2. Drain cooling system.
  3. Remove upper intake manifold.
  4. Remove cylinder head covers, crankshaft vibration damper, and timing chain cover.
CAUTION: When aligning timing marks, always rotate engine by turning the crankshaft. Failure to do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.
117014297

  1. Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to mark on oil pump housing (2). The mark on oil pump housing is 600 ATDC of #1 cylinder.
CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT rotate the camshafts or crankshaft without first locating the proper crankshaft position. Failure to do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.
117016938

  1. Remove primary timing chain tensioner retainer cap (2) and tensioner (1) from right cylinder head.
117016939

  1. Disconnect and remove camshaft position sensor (4) from left cylinder head.
  2. Remove timing chain guide access plugs (3) from cylinder heads.
NOTE: When camshaft sprocket bolts are removed, the camshafts will rotate in a clockwise direction.
  1. Starting with the right camshaft sprocket, remove the sprocket attaching bolts. Remove camshaft damper (1) (if equipped) and sprocket.
  2. Remove left side camshaft sprocket attaching bolts and remove sprocket.
  3. Remove lower chain guide (7) and tensioner arm (8).
  4. Remove the primary timing chain (5).
  5. Remove crankshaft sprocket (6).
INSTALLATION
117016940

  1. Inspect all sprockets (4,9,11) and chain guides (2,5,10). Replace if worn.
  2. For crankshaft sprocket installation procedures Refer to CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET.
  3. If removed, install right and left side short chain guides (11). Tighten attaching bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
  4. Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to the mark on oil pump housing (3).
NOTE: Lubricate timing chain and guides with engine oil before installation.
  1. Place left side primary chain sprocket onto the chain so that the timing mark is located in-between the two (plated) timing links (1).
117016941

  1. Lower the primary chain with left side sprocket through the left cylinder head opening.
NOTE: The camshaft sprockets can be allowed to float on the camshaft hub during installation.
  1. Loosely position left side camshaft sprocket over camshaft hub.
  2. Align timing (plated) link to the crankshaft sprocket timing mark (3).
  3. Position primary chain onto water pump drive sprocket (10).
  4. Align right camshaft sprocket timing mark to the timing (plated) link on the timing chain (8) and loosely position over camshaft hub.
  5. Verify that all chain timing (plated) links are properly aligned to the timing marks on all sprockets.
  6. Install left side lower chain guide (2) and tensioner arm (5). Tighten attaching bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
NOTE: Inspect O-ring on chain guide access plugs before installing. Replace O-ring as necessary.
  1. Install chain guide access plugs to cylinder heads. Tighten plugs to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) .
NOTE: To reset the primary timing chain tensioner, engine oil will first need to be purged from the tensioner.
117016942

  1. Purge oil from timing chain tensioner using the following procedure:
    1. Place the check ball (2) end of tensioner into the shallow end of Special Tool 8186 (3).
    2. Using hand pressure, slowly depress tensioner until oil is purged from tensioner.
117016943

  1. Reset timing chain tensioner using the following procedure:
    1. Position cylinder plunger (4) into the deeper end of Special Tool 8186 (3).
    2. Apply a downward force until tensioner is reset.
NOTE: If oil was not first purged from the tensioner, use slight finger pressure to assist the center arm pin of Special Tool 8186 to unseat the tensioner's check ball.

CAUTION: Ensure the tensioner is properly reset. The tensioner body (4) must bottom against the top edge of Special Tool 8186 (3). Failure to properly perform the resetting procedure may cause tensioner jamming.

NOTE: Inspect the tensioner O-ring (2) for nicks or cuts and make sure the snap ring (1) is correctly installed, replace as necessary.
117016944

  1. Install the reset chain tensioner (1) into the right cylinder head.
  2. Position tensioner retaining plate (2) and tighten bolts (1) to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.) .
117016945

  1. Starting at the right cylinder bank, first position the camshaft damper (1) (if equipped) on camshaft hub, then insert a 3/8 square drive extension with a breaker bar into intake camshaft drive hub. Rotate camshaft until the camshaft hub aligns to the camshaft sprocket and damper attaching holes. Install the sprocket attaching bolts and tighten to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
  2. Turn the left side camshaft by inserting a 3/8 square drive extension with a breaker bar into intake camshaft drive hub and rotate camshaft until the sprocket attaching bolts can be installed. Tighten sprocket bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.).
  3. Rotate engine slightly clockwise to remove timing chain slack, if necessary.
117016946

  1. Activate the timing chain tensioner by using a flat bladed pry tool to gently pry tensioner arm towards the tensioner slightly. Then release the tensioner arm. Verify the tensioner is activated (extends).
117016947

  1. Install camshaft position sensor (2) and connect electrical connector.
  2. Install the timing chain cover, crankshaft vibration damper, and cylinder head covers.
  3. Install upper intake manifold.
NOTE: After installation of a reset tensioner, engine noise will occur after initial start-up. This noise will normally disappear within 5-10 seconds.
  1. Fill cooling system.

Mar 27, 2013 | 2001 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer

Hello I own a 05 1200c sportster. I was about to go for a quick ride one day and just as I was going to put the bike on neutral some how I shifted wrong, resulting with the Final Belt drive snapping! I...


The first and easiest thing to check is the primary chain tension. In the middle of the top run, you should have 3/8" to 1/2" up and down play with the engine cold. Check this through the small hole in the top of the outer primary cover. Adjust with the adjuster screw on the underside of the cover. Also look on the inside of the outer cover to see if the sprocket shaft nut has come loose and is rubbing the cover. It could also be a magnet in the rotor on your alternator has come loose. To check that, you'll have to pull the primary chain, engine sprocket, and clutch assembly off to get the rotor off. The mainshaft nut that holds the clutch on had left handed threads.

Good Lucki
Steve

Sep 17, 2011 | 2005 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

2007 1200 sportser sounds like the gear chain is lose how do i fix it...


If you're talking about the primary drive chain on the left side of the bike, with the engine cold and engine OFF, remove the inspection plate at the top center of the primary cover. Stick your finger in the hole and lift the chain. You should have 3/8" to 1/2" up and down movement. If you need to adjust the tension on the chain, loosen the lock nut on the adjuster bolt on the bottom of the primary case. Turning the bolt upwards tightens the chain. Once you get the tension set correctly, tighten the locknut. Make sure the oil level in the primary case is correct because this same oil lubricates your transmission. You don't want to run your transmission low on oil. If you're in doubt, drain the primary and refill with one quart of oil. There may be a lubricant level plug in the backside of your primary cover.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 06, 2011 | 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

How do I change the starter on my 2005 1200 xl sportster


The first thing to do is to disconnect the battery. Then, you'll have to take everything on the right side of the bike off that impedes your getting to the starter. You may have to remove the exhaust system completely. Take the battery cable off the starter. Then, on the left side of the bike, loosen the lock nut on the primary chain adjuster beneath the primary and turn the primary chain tension adjuster bolt out about two turns or so. Remove the footpeg and shfiter from that side of the bike. Take the drain plug out and drain the oil out of the primary. Remove the derby cover and take the spring and lock nut out of the clutch release mechanism. Remove the bolts that hold the primary cover on. These bolts are different lengths and sizes. Make sure you make a drawing of which bolt goes where. Turn the clutch adjuster screw clockwise while you remove the outer primary cover. Do not take the clutch cable loose but rather just put the primary cover aside somewhere. Remove the two large bolts inside the primary located just above the clutch assembly. At this point, your starter should come out.

Good Luck
Steve

Jun 13, 2011 | 2005 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

Knocking sound at the left side of the crankcase when i open the crankcase i found out that the chain and the clutch were so dry no lubricant...What is the problem the oilpump or the oil line was clugged...


On your Sportster, the primary oil is not fed by the oil pump. It is not even part of the oiling system of your bike. You manually put the oil in the primary by pouring it in the hole where you check your primary chain tension. The maintenance schedule on your bike suggest that the oil in the primary be changed every 5000 miles. The primary holds approximately a quart of oil. The oil that lubricates your primary also lubricates your transmission. So, if your primary case was dry, your transmission was running dry as well.

Good Luck
Steve

Jun 04, 2011 | 1993 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883

1 Answer

I have a 2000 FXST while riding about 30-35 mph I noticed a swishing sound coming from the bottom end,sounded like the primary chain was making noise.A few miles later sound got louder, almost like...


The primary chain is supposed to have 5/8 to 7/8 inch up and down play in the top run of the chain with the engine cold. I think it's 1/2 to 5/8 inch hot but I've never set the tension on a hot primary chain.

But, if you say you heard a crunching noise, then the engine started running rough and popping out the exhaust, I'd suspect something to do with the ignition timing. The ignition timing is controlled by the pulses from the crank position sensor on the right flywheel.

If I were you, I'd pull the primary cover, take the compensator sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly off, pull the rotor and the stator of the alternator. Then pull the sprocket shaft seal out and take a look at the Timken bearing. While you've got everything off, take the plugs out and turn the engine over and feel for any roughness. It may be time for an engine overhaul. I've only seen Timken bearings fail in one Shovelhead engine but they do fail. Hopefully, you'll find something much simplier and less expensive than this wrong.

Good luck
Steve

Aug 13, 2010 | Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard...

1 Answer

Engine chain type noise at low rpm engine has approx 40 thousand kilos on a 2008 electric glide classic


Have you checked the tension on the primary chain lately? Take the oval shaped inspection cover off the the primary cover on the right side of the bike. Check the tension on the top run of the primary chain in the middle of the run. You should have between 5/8" (15.8mm) to 7/8" (19.0mm) with the engine COLD. To adjust loosen the nut that holds the primary chain shoe in place and raise the plate to tighten the chain, lower it to loosen. Since working through the inspection cover hole is tedious, some people elect to take the outer primary cover off and then set the tension. Refill the primay with 36 to 42 ounces of the appropiate oil. Harly uses H-D Syn3 20W50 synthetic engine oil in the primary.

If the noise seems to be coming from the right hand side of the engine, it could be the cam chain tensioner and shoe. To repair this requires going into the cam chest. This is something that I do not recommend for the amateur mechanic. There are also some special tools required to work in this area.

I hope this helps
Good Luck
Steve

Jul 20, 2010 | Motorcycles

2 Answers

Timing on 4.7 help


INSTALLATION
  1. Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool, release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against spring force through access hole on side of tensioner. While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on front of tensioner. Slowly open vise to transfer piston spring force to lock pin (Resetting Secondary Chain Tensioners).
  2. Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.). CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torx® bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head. Tighten torx® bolt to specified torque only.
  3. Install right side chain tensioner arm. Apply Mopar® Lock N, Seal to torx® bolt, tighten bolt to 17 N·m (150 in. lbs.). NOTE: The silver bolts retain the guides to the cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides to the engine block.
  4. Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.). CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torx® bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head. Tighten torx® bolt to specified torque only.
  5. Install left side chain tensioner arm. Apply Mopar® Lock N, Seal to torx® bolt, tighten bolt to 17 N·m (150 in. lbs.).
  6. Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).
  7. Install both secondary chains onto the idler sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary chains to be visible through the two lower openings on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once the secondary timing chains are installed, position special tool 8515 to hold chains in place for installation (Installing Secondary Timing Chains on Idler Sprocket).
  8. Align primary chain double plated links with the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket. Align the primary chain single plated link with the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket (Timing Chain System).
  9. Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean engine oil.
  10. Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and idler sprocket as an assembly (Installing Idler Gear, Primary and Secondary Timing Chains). After guiding both secondary chains through the block and cylinder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap or the equivalent, This will maintain tension on chains to aid in installation. NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate camshafts for sprocket installation.
  11. Align left camshaft sprocket “L” dot to plated link on chain.
  12. Align right camshaft sprocket “R” dot to plated link on chain. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over-torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
  13. Remove Special Tool 8515, then attach both sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts, then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
  14. Verify that all plated links are aligned with the marks on all sprockets and the “V8” marks on camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position (Timing Chain System). CAUTION: Ensure the plate between the left secondary chain tensioner and block is correctly installed.
  15. Install both secondary chain tensioners. Tighten bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.). NOTE: Left and right secondary chain tensioners are not common.
  16. Before installing idler sprocket bolt, lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket assembly retaining bolt to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.).
  17. Remove all locking pins (3) from tensioners. CAUTION: After pulling locking pins out of each tensioner, DO NOT manually extend the tensioner(s) ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains, resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads.
  18. Using Special Tool 6958, Spanner with Adaptor Pins 8346, tighten left (Tightening Left Side Camshaft Sprocket Bolt) and right (Tightening Right Side Camshaft Sprocket Bolt). camshaft sprocket bolts to 122 N·m (90 ft. lbs.).
  19. Rotate engine two full revolutions. Verify timing marks are at the follow locations:
  20. Lubricate all three chains with engine oil.
  21. After installing all chains, it is recommended that the idler gear end play be checked (Measuring Idler Gear End Play). The end play must be within 0.10–0.25 mm (0.004–0.010 in.). If not within specification, the idler gear must be replaced.
  22. Install timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION) and crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTALLATION).
  23. Install cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION). NOTE: Before installing threaded plug in right cylinder head, the plug must be coated with sealant to prevent leaks.
  24. Coat the large threaded access plug with Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon, then install into the right cylinder head and tighten to 81 N·m (60 ft. lbs.) (Cylinder Head Access Plug Location).
  25. Install the oil fill housing.
  26. Install access plug in left cylinder head (Cylinder Head Access Plug Location).
  27. Install power steering pump (Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - INSTALLATION).
  28. Install radiator fan shroud.
  29. Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
  30. Connect negative cable to battery.

Jul 08, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Durango

2 Answers

1550 motor makes noises


most left hand noises invole the compensating sprocket/alternator area, and back along the primary chain to the clutch hub. bearing failure would be noticed at low rpm, so i doubt this problem has anything to do with your 1550 kit

Jun 14, 2009 | 2001 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat...

1 Answer

I have a 99 dodge intrepid that threw a rod and my father-in-law and I have been trying to time the car for a year now. We get number one piston up but the mark on the oil pump doesnt line up with the mark...


I'm not sure what you may be "doing wrong", but here is the manufacturer procedure for aligning the timing marks.
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^Refer to this diagram during step 12.
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^Refer to this diagram during step 13.
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^Refer to this diagram for step 19.

1. Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to the mark on oil pump housing. NOTE: Lubricate timing chain and guides with engine oil before installation.
2. Place left side primary chain sprocket onto the chain so that the timing mark is located in-between the two (plated) timing links.
3. Lower the primary chain with left side sprocket through the left cylinder head opening. NOTE: The camshaft sprockets can be allowed to float on the camshaft hub during installation.
4. Loosely position left side camshaft sprocket over camshaft hub.
5. Align timing (plated) link to the crankshaft sprocket timing mark.
6. Position primary chain onto water pump drive sprocket.
7. Align right camshaft sprocket timing mark to the timing (plated) link on the timing chain and loosely position over camshaft hub.
8. Verify that all chain timing (plated) links are properly aligned to the timing marks on all sprockets.
9. Install left side lower chain guide and tensioner arm. Tighten attaching bolts to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.). NOTE: Inspect oil ring on chain guide access plug before installing. Replace O-ring as necessary.
10. Install chain guide access plug to left side cylinder head. Tighten plug to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.)
11. NOTE:
To reset the primary timing chain tensioner, engine oil will first need to be purged from the tensioner.
12. Purge oil from timing chain tensioner using the following procedure:
a) Place the check ball end of tensioner into the shallow end of Special Tool 8186.
b) Using hand pressure, slowly depress tensioner until oil is purged from tensioner.
13. Reset timing chain tensioner using the following procedure:
a) Position cylinder plunger into the deeper end of Special Tool 8186.
b) Apply a downward force until tensioner is reset. NOTE: If oil was not first purged from the tensioner, use slight finger pressure to assist the center arm pin of Special Tool 8186 to unseat the tensioner's check ball. CAUTION: Ensure the tensioner is properly reset. The tensioner body must bottom against the top edge of Special Tool 8186. Failure to properly perform the resetting procedure may cause tensioner jamming.
14. Install the reset chain tensioner into the right cylinder head.
15. Position tensioner retaining plate and tighten bolts to 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.).
16. Starting at the right cylinder bank, insert a 3/8" square drive extension with a breaker bar into intake camshaft drive hub. Rotate camshaft until the camshaft hub aligns to the camshaft sprocket and damper attaching holes. Install the sprocket attaching bolts and tighten to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.).
17. Turn the left side camshaft by inserting a 3/8" square drive extension with a breaker bar into intake camshaft drive hub and rotate camshaft until the sprocket attaching bolts can be installed. Tighten sprocket bolts to 28 Nm (250 in. lbs.).
18. Rotate engine slightly clockwise to remove timing chain slack, if necessary.
19. To arm the timing chain tensioner: Use a flat bladed pry tool to gently pry tensioner arm towards the tensioner slightly. Then, release the tensioner arm. Verify the tensioner is armed (extends).
20. Install the timing chain cover, crankshaft damper, and cylinder head covers.
21. Install camshaft position sensor and connect electrical connector.

Hope this helps!
Mitchell

May 16, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Intrepid

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