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Yes they should be adjustable because people change tyre profiles front to rear and this alters the drive angle.The adjustment screws are in the headlamp housing behind lamps accessed from the hood/ bonnet side.you do need to do this properly so they align together at the legal height for full beam.there is plenty of online information on the correct height for full beam...once you have made sure all Your tyres are at the right pressure....park on level ground ...at least 3 meters from front of a wall ....and at right angles to the wall....measure the height to the centre of headlight to ground .......mark the right light horizontal line for correct height on the wall and make sure you put lights on full beam....they should shine slightly below (say an inch )to the marked the measurement of height of lamp on the vehicle....adjust until the right hand light horizon is an inch below...now mark vertical line to cross centre of reflected light....this will give you a register point to mark where the left light should fall ...this will be exact distance apart as on vehicle and again adjust left until it falls below 1inch of the measured height line of lamp on car......mark distance from right to left light and mark the same height in chalk....then adjust left light to pinpoint marked chalk cross.adjust the beams by turning the spring loaded screws behind the lights.once you are happy check dipped positions....on right hand drive the lights should dip below and left.left hand drive dip below and right.you probably didn't need so much info but ...hey it's free and it saves any misunderstanding.hope this is of help...please vote.thankyou.
Look for some Youtube videos on this repair. If I remember correctly the links on this chain have different color metal for the spots that the cam tooth goes against. When each side is in the proper tooth the right and left colored links will be on the cam mark and the crank mark should be on the timing TDC mark. Sounds like the slack you describe is wrong and a tooth is off because the tensioner is allowing slack.. You need to slip a tooth one way or the other until the tensioner has room to be in a neutral position.
Your motorcycle has two sets of points. Each point set operates one coil or two spark plugs. You can try cleaning the point contact surface with a point file.The point may be worn and grounding out to the frame. The bike may need two new sets of points properly installed and timed to run on all four cylinders again.
1st -- Adjust gaps -- Do this separately for each points set. Turn crankshaft clockwise using 17 mm wrench to widest points opening and adjust gap separately for each set of points at 0.3-0.4mm (.012-.016 inch). Each points set has two base screws to very slightly loosen thereby allowing movement to open or close gap, then retighten after setting gap. The widest gap happens when the heel is resting on the highest part of the cam. At this stage nothing but the gap has been adjusted. But this is important because proper gap does affect the subsequent timing procedure. And other screws have remained tight.
2nd -- Set Timing -- Each points set has two mounting screws and pry slots which can be used with strobe light (after slightly loosening the two mounting screws) to align the respective F marks with the timing mark. But if the adjusting plate doesn't travel far enough to allow correct adjustment, then loosen the three mounting plate screws and move the mounting plate.
3rd -- Tighten and recheck --Tighten all screws and recheck timing with strobe light.
Make sure #1 is on the compression stroke when you "TDC".. you are on the right track... the points are supposed to just start opening at the "F" mark..hard to do without a meter.. try setting them and using a timing light to verify..
take it your trying to strobe it ?? good old fashioned motors easy to do ,it could be timed to any one of its 8 cylinders so try 1 then eight and if no luck seeing the mark then try all the others in turn as could be no5 even
Remove spark plugs to make engine easier to turn over. Rotate engine until etched line on points cam lines up with the rubbing block on one of the points. Set gap to .015" Rotate engine 180 degrees and repeat. Reinstall spark plugs. Hook up timing light to left hand spark plug (cylinder #1) Start bike and hold throttle about 2500 RPMs. Shift point breaker plate left/right until timing marks align. Hook timing light to #2 cylinder. Run @ 2500 RPM. Adjust remaining point sub-plate (on main point plate) until sceond timing mark aligns by timing light.
It is pretty easy. Remove the old points then install the new set. There is a slot where the lockdown screw goes. The slot limits the adjusting range yet allows the adjusting plate to move left and right to set the timing. The lockdown screw gets snugged up just enough to hold the points assembly in place so you can stick a screwdriver inside the flywheel and into the adjusting point to move the entire points assembly. Moving the sssembly makes the timing earlier or later. A dial gage is screwed into the spark plug hole to gage the position of the piston. The timing should be set such that the points open at 1.8mm BTC.. An ohlm meter will show you the moment the points break contact. You can check the timing with a timing light if your particular machine has an index mark on the flywheel and a static mark on the case. Not everyone has a dial gage, Ohlm meter and timing light. In general, set the points gap at .012 to .015 and you should be about right. The gap is set with the arm riding on the high point of the magneto center lobe. Please take a moment and rate my answer. Thanks.
The correct valve tappet clearance is .004" on both the intake and exhaust valves (cold engine).
Remove both valve covers. Remove the round timing inspection cover from the top left hand side of the crankcase. On the rear of the engine, on the left side, is another round cover to remove - this gives you access to the head of a bolt on the end of the generator shaft (use a 17mm wrench to remove the cover).
Using a 12mm box end wrench, turn the generator bolt clockwise until the "T-1" mark on the flywheel is aligned with the notch in the timing hole. Now, check the valves for the #1 cylinder (the left front cyl.) - both should be closed and their cam lobes facing in, away from the rocker arms. If not, rotate the engine another 360 degrees. Check both valves for the #1 cylinder with the .004" feeler gauge. The correct adjustment is when you feel a slight drag on the gauge. Use the lock nut and adjusting screw to set the proper clearance. At this time, you may also adjust the #4 cyl. intake valve and the #3 cyl. exhaust valve.
Next, rotate the engine another 360 degrees, aligning the "T-1" mark again. Now you can check / adjust both valves for the #2 cyl. and the #3 intake, and #4 exhaust. Then, you're done.