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Master plunger having hard time depressing plunger

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Make, model and some details- what plunger? in what? Why?

Posted on Apr 24, 2013

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6ya6ya
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I have a 2000 mazda 323 with a manual transmission. i have already change the clutch kit but the gear is still hard to shift


Check the hydraulic clutch operation. This is a clutch master cylinder with a reservoir on the firewall, and a clutch slave cylinder down on the bell housing of the transmission, with a steel tube running from the master to the slave cylinder. When clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is forced from the master to the slave. The slave cylinder should push out a little plunger that contacts the clutch fork lever-pushing it forward to engage the clutch.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir if needed. Watch the plunger on the slave cylinder: if it moves little, or not enough, try bleeding the slave from the bleeder valve. They are bled just like brakes. If bleeding doesn't help, your clutch master or the slave may need replacing. The master cylinder, like a brake master, has internal seals that hold hydraulic pressure, so force can be applied to the plunger on the slave cylinder.

Dec 09, 2013 | Mazda 323 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you bleed the brake system on 2003 suzki grand yitara 4x4 with abs brakes


The hydraulic brake system must be bled any time one of the brake lines is disconnected or air enters the system. There are two ways to bleed the system; pressure bleeding or manual bleeding. Both procedures will be given here, although pressure bleeding requires the use of some fairly expensive equipment (a pressure tank) and is seldom used. Both methods are equally effective.The correct bleeding sequence is: left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. On master cylinders equipped with a bleeder valve, bleed the master cylinder last.
PRESSURE BLEEDING
  1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover, and attach the pressure bleeding adapter.
  2. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
  3. Check the pressure bleeder reservoir for correct pressure 20-29 psi (137-206 kPa) and fluid level, then open the release valve.
  4. Fasten a bleeder hose to the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and submerge the free end of the hose in a transparent receptacle. The receptacle should contain enough brake fluid to cover the open end of the hose.
  5. Open the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and allow the fluid to flow until all bubbles disappear and an uncontaminated flow exists.
  6. Close the nipple, remove the bleeder hose and repeat the procedure on the other wheel cylinders according to the sequence.


MANUAL BLEEDING(see Figures 1, 2 and 3)An alternative to the pressure method of bleeding requires two people to perform; one to depress the brake pedal and the other to open the bleeder nipples.
  1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, and then remove the cover and fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
  2. To prevent squirting fluid replace the cover.
  3. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
  4. Install a box end wrench on the left front bleeder screw.
  5. Attach a length of small diameter, clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw. Submerge the other end of the rubber tubing in a glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid. Make sure the rubber tube fits on the bleeder screw snugly or you may be squirted with brake fluid when the bleeder screw is opened.
  6. Have your friend slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder screw half a turn and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Close the bleeder screw, then return the brake pedal to its fully released position.
  7. Repeat this procedure until no bubbles appear in the jar. Refill the master cylinder.
  8. Frequently check the master cylinder level during this procedure. If the reservoir runs dry, air will enter the system and the bleeding will have to be repeated.

Hope helps.

Sep 29, 2011 | 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara

1 Answer

Replaced rear master cylinder and pads bled brakes replaced banjo washers bled about a dozen times, still have half pedal until after first press then gets a good brake??


" still have half pedal until after first press then gets a good brake". This tells me that you still have air in the brake system. Bleeding the brakes is not difficult but it has to be done in a specific manner. To bleed the brakes, follow this procedure exactly. Depress and hold the rear brake pedal. Open the brake bleeder valve and allow all pressure to bleed off. Close the bleeder valve. Release the brake pedal and check the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir. Do not allow the reservoir to go dry. You can put a piece of clear plastic hose on the bleeder valve and direct the fluid into a container to reduce the mess. If this does not resolve the problem, check the freeplay of the brake linkage. You want to reduce the freeplay but the master cylinder plunger must return fully in the master cylinder. Adjust the linkage to where you have about a half inch if free travel before the linkage starts to move the master cylinder plunger. If you get it too tight, when you apply the brakes, they will not release and continue to get tighter with each depression of the foot pedal.

Good Luck
Steve

Jul 10, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

3 Answers

Brake ligth alwayson after replacing master cylinder


Your brake light switch is engaged, pedal is not pressing far enough back onto switch.

Feb 24, 2011 | 1995 Toyota T100 Xtracab

1 Answer

How to replace a master brake cylinder on a 1989 oldsmobile 88 delta


First thing you need to do is bench bleed the new master cylinder.new master should have come with 2 plastic tubes and fittings.screw fittings into new master,fix tubes to fittings other end in to top of master where fluid goes.fill with fluid make sure the tubes are submergered in brake fluid for entire process.take a screwdriver and press plunger in rear of master.use short slow strokes to start you will see air bubbles in resovoir.slowly increase length of stoke watchin resovoir till no mome bubbles.now ready to install.Remove failed master,(loosen lines befofe removing mounting bolts)remove lines last.reinstall new master then remove bleeding tubes last install and tighten lines.Fill fluid replace lid,have a helper sit in car,loosen lines about half a turn.Have helper depress brake pedal slowly and hold down pedal untill lines tightened.when tight release pedal and repeat 5/6 times.fluid should come out of lines without any air when bled propperly.if failed master did not run out of fluid uyou should be finished.if pedal still soft/mushy will have to bleed a wheels also.use same proceedure but openening bleed screws not lines.may take many times to get rid of all air,you can see and hear the air exiting bleeders.keep an eye on fluid level while bleeding if u run out you are starting again

Jan 24, 2011 | Oldsmobile 88 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Trying to bleed the brakes on a 1998 flhrci and when i press the pedal, there isn't any pressure...


First, check the master cylinder and make sure there's fluid in it. If not, top off the master cylinder and bleed the brakes again. You must bleed the brakes slowly because the hole that feeds the brake fluid into the plunger of the master cylinder is very small. Depress the pedal, open the bleeder valve, close the bleeder valve, let off on the brake pedal and wait a minute or two before doing the process again. Give the plunger time to refill with brake fluid and do not allow the master cylinder to go empty while bleeding is in process.

Now, in the very bottom of the master cylinder, there are two holes. One is pretty big but the other one is quite small. The large hole is a "bleed off" hole that allows a certain amount of brake fluid to "bleed off as you depress the pedal". If this were not there, you would be unable to feel the brake pedal move at all when you stepped on it. The small hole is the one we're concerned with you you can't get a pedal to build up. It could be stopped up. The hole is somewhere around 0.020" in diameter. Sometimes a bit of trash gets into the hole and prevents brake fluid from filling the plunger. Clean the hole out with a small drill bit or piece of wire. Do not enlarge the hole.

Good Luck
Steve

Sep 17, 2010 | 2004 Harley Davidson FLHRS - FLHRSI Road...

1 Answer

I have excessive brake travel, and a hard time 98 chevy blazer


Two issues...
The brake booster has a ruptured diaphragm. Replace the booster.
It is located under the hood between the brake master cylinder and the firewall.

Your master cylinder may be leaking fluid internally past the plunger.
Have it examined when you change the booster.

Oct 12, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Clutch is sticking


More than likely the slave cylinder on transmission is leaking,< Hydrolic plunger that atttaches to clutch yoke > or possibly the master cylinder that operates it,< plunger sticking >. inspect them to find source of problem.If the master cylinder is low on fluid then there is a leak and slave cylinder most likely source.

Apr 26, 2009 | Kia Sephia Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Clutch Pedal not returning 3000GT


Buy a seal kit from autozoe, wil cost you around 17 dollars. Remove clutch aster cylinder by firstly undoing the resevoir clamp and remove the reservoir to give you access to the hard hydraulic line and detach the line. Undo the two bolts holding the master cylinder to the firewall and then go inside the car and pull the cotter pin holding the end of the mastrecylinder plunger to the pedal (watch the washers and remember how they go back on). Remove the unit, and strip it down to replace the plunger and releif valve you get from the kit. Good Luck.

Mar 04, 2009 | 1997 Mitsubishi 3000GT

2 Answers

Brakes


sounds like the master cyclinder

Jan 14, 2009 | 1991 Ford Explorer

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