Question about Motorcycles
Possible ignition coil or control box burned out? In general with an electric start engine, cranking load drops the available voltage to 10 volts or less so the ignition coil primary winding is wound to operate on 9 volts. So while cranking, the coil is fed battery available voltage. when the start button or ignition switch is returned to the run position, the coil is fed through a ballast resister that drops battery voltage, around 12 to 14 volts to 9 volts. if the ballast resister is bypassed and full battery voltage is fed to the coil, it will overheat and burn out.Check the primary coil resistance, it should have a low resistance or continuity. If burned out, it will have no continuity or a very high-to-infinity resistance.
Posted on Jul 31, 2017
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Here are a few things to do >>
How old is the gas in the gas tank? Get fresh fuel.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Clean the bowl and filter screen if present, then re-mount them, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl or screen ).
Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Set the idle speed with the idle screw.
I am uncertain if the bike has ran for you or not. "Did pull the spark plug and kick started it." If the bike still will not run then the cam chain may be out of time. Why was the tensioner off the bike?
Please rate this solution. Thanks budx5!
Posted on Apr 04, 2009
SOURCE: won't idle steadily
Check the rubber boot that joins the carby to the engine to often have seen the hose clamps over tightened therefore creating a split in the rubber letting to much air in giving the rough idle eventually you wont be able to start it at all (have a good thorough look inside an outside of boot doesnt take much)
Posted on May 22, 2009
SOURCE: 1989 tw200 yamaha won't start
G'day egdbcs . Ok.now lets see.You say good spark,so i'm presuming you are doing the old sight test.Try bending the arm on a know good sparkplug about 5-6mm,earth the plug and kick'er in the guts(crank it over)Be very carefull , high voltage danger.If there's still a good spark it's safe to say that there will also be a good spark under pressure in the combustion chamber,speaking of which you should also do a compression test,anything over 100psi should be ok. as i'm not to sure of the extent of the re-build,hopefully the valves were lapped and checked for straight and true and valve seals replaced,if you notice oil on the tip of the spark plug you could have a leaking valve seal or oil seal .Try putting a small amount of fuel directly into the combustion chamber ,tighten up the spark plug ,install the plug cap and.......Yeah ..You guessed it ..."kicker in the guts".If all the abouve are correct and true it should fire up.If it runs for 5-10 seconds then stops you've got some sort of fuel starvation problem , could be dirt in the carb,blocked idle jet ,or air passage or even the needle could have come off it's clip,believe me with an old bike like yours anything could be worn and loose inside that carby.The only other thing to consider is the timing.There may be a good spark but is it happening at the right time inside the engine???. I'll leave it all in your capable hands EGDBCS.Hope this helps to solving your worries. Chow for now......Tilleydog..
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
it's not that your not gettin gas it's that the gas is not getting thru the carbs to the engine. your bike will probably start w/choke on and then die, your jets are clogged and happens to most bikes that are stored w/gas in the carbs.,,,clean them if you know how or take it to a trusted mech...good luck to you...Tim
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
Sounds like you might have an oxygen sensor problem. Your catalytic converter(s) maybe defective or dirty. That in turn can dirty up the oxygen sensor. A defective oxygen sensor will send faulty info to the computer, interpreting the fumes as cold (even when the engine warms up). That causes the computer to adjust the fuel mixture to very rich, giving you poor gas mileage and the fuel smell. Hope it helps.
Posted on Mar 16, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 04, 2015 | Yamaha Motorcycles
Dec 10, 2014 | Yamaha Motorcycles
Dec 23, 2013 | 2006 Yamaha Jog R
Aug 02, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
Mar 16, 2013 | 2006 Yamaha Jog R
Jul 29, 2012 | 2006 Yamaha Jog R
Jul 29, 2012 | 2006 Yamaha Jog R
Apr 04, 2012 | 1987 Yamaha FZR 1000
May 24, 2010 | 1999 Yamaha TDM 850
Mar 18, 2009 | 1992 Yamaha XJ 900 F
Jun 19, 2018 | Motorcycles
49 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!