Question about 2004 Harley Davidson FXDWG - FXDWGI Dyna Wide Glide
Why does my regulator and stator plug connection . get hot and smoke when bike running,bike starts no problem /
Hi Jeff, probably because you have a weak connection, check for corroded, broken or loose pins/sockets then perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for drop in aprerage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v while cranking replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor.
17. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below and good luck.
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics
Posted on Jun 12, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yes, you can ride the bike to the mechanics location. Make sure your battery is fully charged and I'd go ahead and completely disconnect the voltage regulator.
Posted on Oct 15, 2009
First, take your battery somewhere and have it load tested. Fat Boys are tough on batteries as the battery sits in the "horseshoe" oil tank and is subjected to high temperatures due to the hot oil in the tank. Battery life is typically two years although I've seen some go longer and some not last that long. Have the battery tested before you start spending money.
To check the stator, you unplug the regulator at the engine case. Down inside the plug you'll see some electrical connectors. Connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to these connectors (one lead to eac pin) and put the meter in the 50 volt or higher range AC voltage. This is important that your meter be set to measure AC voltage because at this point, the voltage is indeed an Alternating Current voltage coming out of your alternator. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should be reading over 20 volts AC. The book says that you should read 12-18 volts per 1000 engine RPM. If your engine is turning 2000 rpm, your meter should read 24-36 volts AC.
To test the regulator, first charge your battery to a full charge. Then connect your DVOM across the battery, red to positive, black to negative. Put the meter in the 20 volt DC range. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The voltage will start at somewhere around 12.5 volts and climb to about 14.5-15 volts. This would indicate that the regulator MAY be alright.
Now, have you changed any of the lights on your Fat Boy? I've seen people change and add lights to the point where their alternator could no longer put out the current necessary to handle the load. If this is the case, you may need a higher out charging system.
I don't know where you're located but $260 seems quite high for a voltage regulator.
Posted on Dec 30, 2009
HD = Hundred Dollars, voltage regulator.
Stator replacement = big dollars because labor intensive. The part is around $100, maybe more by now
Posted on May 17, 2010
SOURCE: bought a new battery rode
To check the output of the charging system, first, you must start with a fully charged battery. Then connect your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive post and the black meter lead to the negative post of the battery. Put the meter's function selection switch in DC VOLTS, 25 VOLTS OR GREATER scale. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Your meter should read between 14.5 to 15.0 volts.
If not, find where the regulator plugs into the alternator. A Big Twin is in the front of the engine and the Sportster is behind rear cylinder. In the stator side of the plug, there are two metal contacts. This is where you're going to check the voltage output of your stator. Put the meter's function switch in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT OR GREATER scale. Start the engine and insert either meter lead into one metal contact and the other lead into the other contact. Do not allow the leads to touch each other or the engine case. Bring the engine to a high idle. If you're working on a Big Twin, you should be reading at least 30 volts, a Sportster should read about 25 volts. If you don't read this much, your stator is bad, If you do read this much, it's probably the regulator. But, since you said that you've changed the regulator at least once, I'd guess maybe another problem. Make sure you regulator is grounded to the frame. I always put one of those star type lock washers between the regulator and the frame on both mounting bolts. The regulator must be grounded.
Posted on Mar 16, 2011
SOURCE: How do I check ignition
If not turning over check for power at green wire plugged into starter / selinoid rt side. when you have key on & start button pushed. & when you push button do you hear relay click..if not check fuze,, I have got good help on the forum.. harleytalking.com .. good luck..
Posted on Mar 31, 2011
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