Question about 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

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I've stripped the plug in the crank case that covers the timing mark on the fly wheel,

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You'll need something like this:

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/911-622

Posted on Apr 22, 2013

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1 Answer

Where are the timing marks located?


there is a bolt hole on the left side of the crank case take that plug out gently spin the motor over and the timing marks are on the fly wheel -- one mark tells you the front cylinder and one mark tells you the rear cylinder

May 28, 2015 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Camshaft and crankshaft timing allinment marks


I don't think they put the timing marks on the main crank shaft front fly wheel any more, since they no longer have distributers. Take out your #1 cylinder spark plug and hand turn your engine crank until the piston is at top dead center, then make your own mark on the fly wheel....I don't think there is a mark any more, unless you have and older car with a distributer....if so...look down on your fly wheel....center front engine about 5/8 of the way down fro the top of your engine. Good luck...be careful.

Mar 27, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My timing is off on my 1991 f150 and i cant find out how to time it


Yea I had the same problem. As long as you have the timing sight above the fly wheel you can pull the number one plug and tick crank the engine till you get the cylinder top dead center then mark the fly wheel with some thing (we used chalk) and then use a timing gun and use the mark for a reference. This will get you close and from there you can adjust it by ear. I found by doing slight adjustments and test driving it and check the acceleration and idle you can get it right.
Also the on-board computer plays a role in this so you might want to pull the negative battery cable and reset it so it will start at default then it can adjust it's self after a fer hours of running.
Yea it's amazing my fly wheel did not have any timing marks on it any where i scrubbed it and looked all over it ,and it's a stock fly wheel the timing sight is there just no timing marks.

Good Luck

Jan 01, 2013 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

To change the outer main bearing on a t30 - 23405l do you have to take everything apart including taking off the jugs?


Let me give you some info. I guess you are talking about the bearing next to the fly wheel. The crankshaft has to come completely out. the crank can not be removed until you have removed the rods from the crank shaft pin. Most of the time if a bearing goes bad you need to replace the rods and crank shaft pin. I 've never done it but if you can get the rods out of the way the crank will come out. My recommendation would be, remove the fly wheel, remove the inner cooler, remove any small tubing lines, Remove the front frame cover, Remove the 2 bolts holding the crank pin bushing (don't forget to lock wire these bolts back together during assembly), Remove the cylinder, head, piston and rod together as a unit. Don't let the piston come out of the cylinder or move around to much unless replacing the rods. Once you get both LP and HP cylinders, heads etc off you can remove the front bearing cap exposing the bearing and a snap ring. Take a piece of wood or brass and from the crank shaft counter weight side (rod side)knock the crank shaft toward the fly wheel side until the snap ring can be removed. Once the snap ring is removed knock the crankshaft back toward the rod side and continue until out of the bearing races. Then remove the crank. The outer bearing can then be pressed off with the retainer at one time. Remove the sleeve. To remove the large bearing(back bearing) you need to be very careful and cut it off. Don't mess up the crank shaft. I've tried several ways to remove the back bearing but the easiest is cutting it off. To answer your question yes you have to disassemble to change bearings.

Aug 18, 2011 | Ingersoll Rand Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

Where are the timing marks on a 1970 cb 350


On the left side of your engine, you will see a round cover. If you remove this round cover you will see a fly wheel with a big bolt head, if you spin this bolt head with the engine in neutral. You will see marks on the fly wheel, these marks are your timing marks.

Jan 18, 2011 | 1972 Honda CB 350 F0

1 Answer

Cant find crank timing mark on 1988 2.0


I assume you have the head cover off. the mark on the top timing belt wheel is the timing mark. make sure it is top dead center. you can check this by putting a screw driver in #1 spark plug hole. if you can't get it in very far because it runs into something then you don't have it top dead center. you can turn it by turning the fly wheel nut on the bottom pulley. of course you will need to have the timing belt off for this. good luck. if you get it together and you have no compression the you didn't get top dead center either. This happened to me when I removed my head to have the valves done. Good luck.

Apr 10, 2010 | 1988 Honda Accord 4 Door

1 Answer

I cannot get the timing marks on Crank and fly wheel alinged


to be honest it not as easy as it sounds to line them both up,,,,you may need to use a locking stud to do this,, and i have seen engines that just wont line up even to half a tooth out,,, but they run just fine anyhow, its all down to just how good the pullys were cut and marked

Feb 16, 2010 | 1994 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

1996 DT 200 R TURBO TUNE UP


not sure if u have tried this my friend,, but on the fly wheel side of the bike,, or left of the bike as u r sat on it,,is the casing covering the fly wheel,, on that casing u will see a screw ,ie looks like a nut ,, undo that to reveal in the hole a little bit of the fly wheel,, shine a torch down it and turn the engine over by hand or put it gear and rock it ,so the fly wheel turns eventually u will see a tdc mark or line engraved on the wheel,, ,,in the hole u r lookin down will be a pointer or small arrow on the casing,, line the to up ,,and then take the spark plug out and just lightly put a screw driver down the hole of the cylinder, it should be at the top of its stroke,,turn the engine over once to make sure the piston is as top dead centre,and the mark on fly wheel line up,, if u r using a strobe light it will be 10% b4 top dead centre.. any probs ,,e mail me, 4 the other solution,, deeptattoo@hotmail.co.uk

Dec 20, 2008 | 2006 Yamaha DT 125 X

2 Answers

Fly wheel problem on a jeep


if its a 4JX1 diesel, yes it goes in 1 spot yet it can be bolted up in every location
put crank pulley timing mark to TDC can also check by removing cam belt top cover and check timing mark aligned up with mark at 12 O clock then flywheel has small notch in edge that must go at 6 O clock (facing down) look closely it is hard to see due to flywheel sunk into back of block.

Oct 19, 2008 | 2000 Isuzu Trooper

2 Answers

Need to set timing on a 88 subaru 1.8 liter


The crank shaft pully will need removal and the water pump pully as well, also the 2 inspection covers and the center housing cover that they conect with, when removed all of the timing belts will be exposed as well as crank shaft end. I used a screw driver angled wedged and held in on the teeth of the fly-wheel to lock it in position so I could remove the crank shaft pully bolt, (standard lefty-loosey threaded). This would have been easier with the fly-wheel locking tool from subaru, or even just a budy to hold the fly-wheel while i turned the bolt loose at the crank pully. I unbolted the fan and slid it out of the way, I did not even need to unplug it. just be sure battery is not conected. The oil dip-stick tube has one 12 mm bolt at the end of a brace at top of engine. loosen and pull up and forward to remove. the crank shaft bolt-you will need to put back in the bolt only! on the end of the crank shaft so you can rotate the engine manualy with a socket on the crank shaft pully nut, while looking through the hole on the top of rear engine area just above fly wheel. wach fly wheel as it turns, look for 3 lines side by side these are not the timing degree marks they are seperate from them, align them to the little arow on the houseing in front of the 3 little marks. be sure the e-brake is set, trany in nutral so engine can turn freely. inspect the cam shaft pullies, on the surface there are 4 evenly spaced holes, there is one tiny hole that lays between the other holes, this little hole that is the pully mark, it needs to be at the twelve oclock position, there is a small groove on the housing at the twelve oclock position as well. align the two with each other, the little hole with the little notch directly above. do the same for the other side cam pully, same way. loosen the idler pulies for each belt, 2 bolts, move it to its full retracted position, pushing on it with fngers against spring tention, titen one of the nuts so the pully stays retracted/pushed. remove old belts, being carefull not to move the place marks of either of the 2 cam shafts or the engine crank placement. put in the new belts check to see if belt has a direction of dravel and match with engine, mine it did not matter but was told that it may with other belt makers? i don't know about that? but thought it was worth the warning?
once belts are on be sure again that marks all mate with marks on all 3 points crank and fly-wheel, both cam shaft pullies with notchs, now release the tnsion on the idler pullies, and retighten where they fell. check again on the 3 timing points be sure they have not moved again... tireing but worth it. if the have moved off of any mark you must realign it by moveing the pully to the rite spot and putting the belt back on. one tooth off on the drivers side of engine cam can meen up to 16 degrees of timing lose either way of perfect. once aligned, put the center cover back over the crank shaft, bolt on. put on the oil dip stick, put on the water pump pully and crank shaft pully, put on belts. leave the fans out untill all is done, just be sure they are free of obstacles so if they come on later it does no harm to it, you, or anything else. leave off the inspection covers at each cam pully. be sure to un block the fly-wheel. re asemble engine and componants to the installed normal positions as best as posible. re conect battery, be sure all tools are clear, start engine, if it will not run smoothly re set the distributer for timing, if still runs bad, you may have one or both cams off by plus or minus 1-2 teeth one the belts. this was hell... you have to move one side one tooth and start the engine and time it again, if that was not it then you move one tooth in in the oposite direction from the oiginal spot, now 2 teeth the oposite way. if not better put back on the original tooth, and do the same to the other cam one step and start at a time untill you find it to work the best, it may even be off by 1 tooth on the rite and 1- tooth on the left. This was a nite-mare but i finaly found the rite placements.
take 2 aspirin, advil, etc. pre-medicate for the manditory headache. and best of luck..
if you are wondering if the valves and the pistons may have struck, forget it subaru made this 1.8l engine as a none contacting engine, this meens that they can never touch piston to valves even in a cam belt failure.

Jul 21, 2008 | 1984 Subaru Gl

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