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Hi, Chip this flow chart is for a Harley but the procedure is still the same, it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test if necessary, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, 12.5 volts or better,to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid has dropped more than 1/2 volt.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
If a lower voltage is produced a proper battery load test should be performed with a load tester to validate battery integrity or battery replacement.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohm-meter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buy a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. Suzuki LT 4WD Quad Runner Starter Repair king quad wont start clicks see what have to say please 1999 suzuki 300 king quad starter won turn over just clicking noise https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/147670434-suzuki-ltf400f-king-quad-pdf-service-repair
Hi, Ryan and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Security alarm needs a reset.
6. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day. Tearing apart my 1997 Suzuki King Quad 300 LTF4WD http://atvconnection.com/forums/archive/index.php/f-14-p-8.htmlSuzuki KingQuad 280 QuadRunner LT 4WD LT F4WDX 250 Manual
exhaust side of engine back of cylinders. there is a bevelled plate retained bt two small bolts,disconect battery remove plate to reveal starter motor disconect high tension lead to starter. remove two retaining bolts lift starter out from cassing.
Disconnect the battery. Find the starter motor (located somewhere off the bell housing) disconnect wiring to starter. Remove bolts (normally 2) and remove starter. Installation is reverse of removal. So it was the starter motor?
Most of the time a standard starter motor works fine with a stroker motor. The stroke of the motor has nothing to do with it being harder to start but the compression does. If you're running 10:1 compression, you may need a stronger starter motor. However is I just had the engine built, I wouldn't mess with the starter until I had to. I've built lots of 89" Evo's with 10:1 compression and the stock starter started them all just fine. Starters are expensive and I wouldn't replace the stock unit until I had to.
To change the motor, you'll have to remove the outer primary so you can take the starter jackshaft loose. Disconnect the battery first. I know you would like to keep all your fingers. Then, from the right side, remove the exhaust system and everything else that might be in your way. Take the battery cable loose from the starter motor at it's connector. There are two large bolts that hold the starter in, remove them and the starter comes right off.
Okay first remove the neg batt terminal, now at starter remove wiring from rear of starter or wait until starter is loose if more room is needed there are two bolts holding it, remove both bolts and starter comes out, heres a few pictures to help you. i hope this is helpful.