Question about Harley Davidson FLHR - FLHRCI Road king Motorcycles

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How do i find out what size my engine is on my 99 harley road king

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 40,868 Answers

Hi Anonymous, for more information on your question please visit the websites below and good luck:
Harley Davidson Road King 1999

Posted on May 26, 2015

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: shocks

The Road King shocks are air adjustable via an air valve located on the right side of the bike just above the rear tire. Your Harley Davidson owner's manual will tell you what the shocks should be pressurized to depending upon the load on your bike (for instance - if you'll be carrying a passenger - the pressure should be a bit higher than it would be if you were riding solo). Don't even attempt to read the pressure unless you have the specialized hand pump that is used to pressurize the shocks. You can purchase this from Harley Davidson or via a third party online. The valve is a typical bicycle / auto air valve - but ... DO NOT attempt to pressurize it with anything but the specialized hand pump. Using anything else will risk over pressurization of your shocks and that's not good. The shocks hold a very small volume of air at relatively low pressure levels - so the hand pump is a must have.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: shift pattern

1st gear all the way down (toe shifter, not heel). Lift up N,2nd,3rd,4th,5th-6th(if applicable)

Posted on Nov 17, 2008

  • 21 Answers

SOURCE: what are the pros and cons of synthetic oil in

Using synthetic is all "pros" in my opinion. I've done a lot of research on line and talking to motorcycle mechanics, local riders, local landscapers who all use synthetics. There is a ton of scientific data and wear comparison data out their- so much that, for me, it's a no brainer to use synthetic. After hours of research I decided to use nothing but Amsoil. Make sure you specify the Motor Cycle oil as it is specifically formulated for bikes. You can usually find it locally. Harley has theirs made for them by one of the major oil refineries- they just put their name on it and mark it up tremendously. Amsoil's specs are the best I've found. I have a 2007 Dyna Super Glide with Vance Hines pipes and a 96 Harley Low Rider with a Crane cam, tricked out chrome and 2 piece 3 spoke "saber" wheels- a real beauty!

Hope this helps and good ridin'!

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

joecoolvette
  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: when riding 2005 fuel injected harley road king,

Sounds like the intake manifold is leaking. The area where the leak usually happens, are those two rubber sleeves that go from the heads, (Cylinder heads) to the intake. Sometimes the clamp/s loosen up. Sometimes these rubber sleeves deteriorate, and cracks form.

This makes the engine backfire, pop, and idle fast.

The added air at the wrong time cause a backfire, when you let off the throttle. The added air causes the engine to pop, because the exhaust valve has sucked up some cold air.
The engine idles fast, because more air is being introduced, and not metered by the injection system.

(The exhaust valve thing. Exhaust valves are supposed to open, and let exhaust out right? Well there is a thing called Valve Overlap.
The Exhaust valve hasn't closed all the way yet, and the Intake valve is opening.
The 4 stroke engine, (Of which a Harley is), has these four strokes.
1.Intake Stroke. Fuel/air is sucked in.
2.Compression Stroke. The piston comes up and squeezes the fuel/air mixture.
3.Combustion Stroke. The spark plug lights the fuel/air mixture off.
4.Exhaust Stroke. The spent gases are expelled out.

Your Road King has one camshaft. There are four cam lobes on it.
Intake, Exhaust, Intake, Exhaust.

If you had the camshaft in your hand, and had the gear end facing you, look down the camshaft. You will see those egg shaped cam lobes. You will notice that No.1 cylinder Intake lobe is facing to the left.
No.1 Exhaust is facing to the right.

If you put a degree wheel on the gear end of the camshaft, and had the No.1 Exhaust lobe ramp nose facing straight up, you would see that it's about 110 degrees, before the Intake lobe ramp at .050 lift, comes into play. (The roller, of your roller lifter has raised the Exhaust valve up .050 inch) There is about 55 degrees before the Exhaust valve hasn't quite shut.
This is okay for normal running. Introduce a vacuum leak, and the surge of extra cold air, makes it pop.

Solution? I suggest checking to see if the clamps on those rubber sleeves are loose. You can also spray WD-40 towards the ends of each rubber sleeve, when the engine is idling, and see if it speeds up. Means, one or more, of those rubber sleeves has deteriorated.

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

  • 269 Answers

SOURCE: how do i change the oil on a 2002 harley road

This is lotsa of fun. First you have 2 bolts, one is at the front of your oil pan the other more towards the rear. the front one is your engine oil the rear one your tranny oil.
First remove or loosen the oil dipstick from the bike. next while on flat ground or on a lift remove the fron screw (it uses a socket or an allen?) use a socket. Drain oil, next comes the messy part. The oil filter is obstructed a little bit by your crank position sensor (CPS) Harley has an oil filter wrench that takes this into account. Lossen the filter about a half to three quarters turn at least. Here is what I do to try to avoid a mess, I take and use to plastic bags from the grocery store, one inside the other. I then basicall try and bag the filter. with the bags on and drip pan below I loosen the filter through the bags until it comes off. There are all sorts of guards you can buy to try and help with the mess, I just haven't had any luck with them. Once you get thefilter out use a lint free rag like an old T-shirt to get any remaining oil off the oil filter housing. Now take a couple drops of new oil, I like to use the Amsoil 10-40 motorcyle oil personally, and smear throughly on the O-ring on the new oil filter, hand tighten the new filter back on. Then using the oil filter wrench of choice tighten it a quarter turn or so. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, makes for a really BAD day. Now go back under the bike and put the plug back in, if you need to clean up use a brake cleaner that will not harm paint (DO NOT SMOKE AROUND THIS STUFF). Since you have replaced the filter you are going to need 4 quarts of oil. Once oil is in place filler cap back on start the bike and do not worry the oil pressure light will come on then flicker than go off, all this happens in 5 seconds or less. Inspect the plug and filter to make sure there are no leaks and you are ready to go.

JP

Posted on Aug 14, 2009

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