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Re: takes time to pick up speed
Brakes will feel spongy if air is in the brake lines. Bleed the brakes. If the chain is slack then loosen rear axle bolt and adjust the chain by moving entire wheel back. Lack of power and taking time to build up speed are usually problems resulting from burnt exhaust valves. Intake valves burn less often than exhaust valves because intake valves have cool gas flowing past them in the intake stroke.
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Hello Dale, this is an easy job on your bike. Use a flat head screw driver and remove the brake pad cover...it will pop off. Remove the hairpin type clips off of the ends of the brake pad pins.... Use pliers & pull the brake pad pins out from the front of the rear brake caliper....Clean the rear brake caliper's piston with brake cleaner. Use a rag and wipe it clean...Reinsert the old brake pads into the caliper. Place a pry bar between the brake pads, then push the inner piston into the caliper body, this will allow room to install new pads.... Remove the old brake pads...Coat the brake pad pins and the new brake pads metal back plates with high-temperature grease.
Slip the new brake pads into the rear brake caliper, then push the brake pad pins halfway into the caliper. Slip the spring clips into place between the brake pads and the brake pad pins. Push the brake pad pins completely through the rear brake caliper. Push the hairpin clips back into the brake pad pin tips. Snap the brake pad cover onto the top of the rear brake caliper....
Pump the rear brake pedal until the pedal feels firm, indicating that the brake pads have closed around the brake rotor...No bleeding will be needed because the system was never opened - That's all there is to it...i hope this information is helpful & good luck with your bike.
you can renew the master cylinder seals, the calipar seals can also cause the lever to feel spongy, they grip the pistons and pull them too far back into the bores instead of letting them return just enough to realease the brake, in this condition when you apply the brake most of the lever travel is just pushing the calipar pistons out to reach the pads and the little travel that is left is pushing the pads on to the disc, hense the spongy feel
the chain type is 428. take chain off and count # of links.give those 2 #s to parts guy. when you replace a worn chain,the front and rear sprockets should be replaced at the same time, because worn sprockets and a new chain will cause accelerated chain wear. count # of teeth on sprockets & give those 2#s to the parts guy also. if you want a longer wearing chain, buy one w/ the highest tensile strength,once again, parts guy can help you find that.dont forget,lube & adjust chain as needed.
I would check the master cylinder mounting to see if something is loose that might allow the brake pedal to move without activating the piston. If everything looks and feels tight I would remove the rear wheel and inspect the brake pads and caliper closely. If nothing seems amiss yet I would rebuild the brake caliper, the kit is very simple. Make sure to clean everything well and inspect the brake pistons for burrs that may be interfering with normal operation.
Could your pads be a little tight on the rear wheel, causing your rear brake to heat up and boiling the brake fluid? If you can raise the rear wheel in the air and turn it there should be little resistance while in neutral. Some slight rubbing of the pads on the disc is normal but if the wheel comes to a stop quickly when given a gentle spin they may be rubbing too much and the caliper needs to be rebuilt.
One the left-hand side of the bike (facing forward), there is cover plate just ahead of the drive shaft. Remove that cover (mine has 8mm bolts). The bleeder valve is under this cover. Go to an auto parts store and get a "one man bleeder kit" or if you have some plastic tubing that will fit over the valve, you can use that and a clean jar. Follow the instructions on the bleeder kit, or if you're using the jar and tubing, fill the jar about a quarter of the way with break fluid (use DOT4, but never DOT5!). Take the cover off the master cylinder up at the handlebars, place the tube over the end of the bleed valve (after loosening it a turn or two. Place the other end of the tube down in the break fluid in the jar. Work the clutch lever until you stop getting bubbles in the jar. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tubing, top off the fluid and replace the covers.
Be careful not to get brake fluid on anything. It will eat paint and mess up other things.