If you are replacing the bearing anyway, it doesn`t matter what happens to the bearing. Heat up the bearing over a flame getting it Very hot, the putting a shifting spanner os other spanner that can slide ofer the shaft but not the bearing, and hit the spanner with a hammer and that should move the bearing, Repeat until bearing is out.
*NOTE* Mark the shaft with something to show where the new bearing should be ( do not use a marking pen, it will burn off, use some thing metal but dont damage the shaft.)
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hi mate this will be the oil & water seals the leak from weep hole is basically a warning light to tell you it needs replacing asap, you need to remove impellor, carefull not to lose the spacer washer behind it...then remove the water seal clean the surface it came from and replace with new seal. Now to do this 100% I would always replace the impeller shaft as the shaft wearing is usually what caused the seal to fail and I would also replace the oil seal which is the other side of case that you just changed the water seal (oil seal sits behind the small bearing) I would also consider replacing this bearing but maybe not critical? all up the impellor shaft the 2 seals and bearing last time I bought cost about $160... no special tools required just quite a bit of time required as you should really remove the outer engine case to access the impellor to undo it and to get to the oil seal and bearing, how ever I know guys do just open the water pump cover then rattle gun off the impellor only replace the water seal then install the impellor and cover back on then ride away! this will work and will fix the leak but is definitely the incorrect way to repair this and will be temporary fix but thought you may like to know this alternative as is very handy way to do it if your on a race meeting and just need to get through the last race or two.
I would reccomend replacing both water pump shaft bearings and also the shaft if there is any sign of grooving on the shaft. Without looking at a diagram i am assuming that the water side of this bikes pump is a mechanical(ceramic) seal design . Sucessful replacement of these mechanical seals can be tricky. A few tips are: be certain that all case surface areas are clean with all old seal/sealing debris removed such as with sccotch brite. So that the seal will seat and seal properly in the case. NEVER allow your dirty/oily fingertips to touch either of the ceramic pieces of the seal in the contact area. Lubricate these ceramic pieces with a standard green type of coolant only upon assembly. Always use a regular green type of coolant in the system untill you are confident of the install and then change to another type if you are going to. Be aware that it is not uncommon for the mechanical(ceramic) type of seal to weep slightly during initial break in as the two halves seat to each other. This weepage should dissappear in a short period of running time.
Coolant leaking from the "weep" hole indicates that the seals are out on the water pump. That's actually what the hole is for, to monitor the condition of the water pump seals. Pretty simple fix with the factory repair manual. Replace the impeller shaft and bearings along with the seals while your in there. Good luck!
yes steve- this is the water pump by-pass hole. There is a secondary backup al behind it to stop the water entring the gearbox. Replace the waterpump seal. Most suzukis' use a mechanical seal. they are prity easy to change- although usually requires removal of the clutch cover. I always replace the mechanical seal, back up seal & the bearing all at once.If it is a standard seal type- be sure to ckeck the shaft of the impellor for groves worn in it where the seal contacts the shaft - in mechanical type seals this does not apply.
Hope this helps regards
HI,,, YOUR WATER PUMP DRIVE SHAFT HAS WARN A GROOVE WHERE THE WATER PUMP OIL SEAL SITS....SO YOU NEED A NEW WATER PUMP SHAFT GASKETS AND SEALS..MAYBE NEW SHAFT BEARINGS...$100-180 TO GET FIXED..THE WATER NECK FROM YOUR CYLINDER HEAD NEEDS A NEW O'RING.. SIMPLE FIX UP
It means your water pump seal is seeping at this point. Eminent failureportended. Replace water pump. Seals on pumps usually fail because of bearing wear, so this is a precursor to pump shaft failure. Good luck