Question about 1998 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A

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What type coolant should i use in yamaha royal star

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Yamaha Master
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Hi, Anonymous for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
The Venturers Yamaha Venture Technical Support Library
Re Antifreeze Road Star Forum Yamaha Road Star
http://www.yamahaventure.nl/pdf/servicemanualxvz13tf.pdf
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://www.starmotorcycles.com/assets/service/manuals/1998/Lit-11626-11-17_320.pdf

Posted on Apr 19, 2016

6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 oil clutch

10w40 or 10w 50. Either will do fine.

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

MNfisherman
  • 11896 Answers

SOURCE: How do I add coolant to my 2005 Yamaha Royal Star

remove radiator cap slowly pour in 50/50 mixture while burping radiator hose. Better to do while running if possible

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

tartantyger
  • 73 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 yamaha royal star. what type and how much

The Royal Star crankcase lubricates engine, transmission and wet clutch at the same time, that's why frequent oil and filter changes are recommended. Use a high-quality multi-grade oil, 10W-30 in cold weather and 20W-40 in hot weather is recommended by the manufacturer. AVOID ANY OIL THAT SAYS ENERGY-CONSERVING (you'll see a seal on the bottle), that type of oil has a tendency to make the clutch slip. Personally, I recommend a multi-grade synthetic - I use Shell Rotella-T (T6) synthetic 5W-40 year-round, 111,000 miles since I changed from Mobil-1 0W-40 (9,000 on the Mobil-1) ; the engine's still tight, and the transmission and clutch are quiet.

Posted on Jul 25, 2010

tartantyger
  • 73 Answers

SOURCE: oil & coolant change, 1998 yamaha 1300 royal star

Before doing either of these jobs, you'll have to run the engine for 8 to 10 minutes to warm up the engine, oil and water.

To change the oil - prop the motorcycle so that it's as close to level as possible, but will not tip over in either direction. Remove the oil fill cover on the back crankcase cover on the right (brake pedal) side. Look directly beneath the cylinders, you'll see a large hex-head bolt (drain plug) in the center of the crankcase. Make sure that you have a container with a capacity of in excess of one gallon under the bolt. Loosen and remove the drain plug (very quickly, the temperature of the oil will be sufficient to cause blisters if permitted to remain on the skin), but do not, if possible, allow it to fall into the pan. Permit the oil to drain fully; while it's draining, clean the plug carefully - you'll find a magnet protruding from the center of the plug, with metal filings collected on the surface - remove as many as possible before reinstalling.

Turn the plug back into the crankcase until oil ceases dripping, move the pan to the front of the engine. Behind the radiator, low on the front of the crankcase, you'll find the filter - it looks very much like the filters you're used to seeing in your car. If you're at the front of the bike, turn the filter counterclockwise to loosen and remove; remember that the filter holds about a half-pint of oil as hot as that you drained out of the crankcase, so keep your hands out of the way as much as possible. When the oil stops dripping, and the filter has been removed and disposed of, put a thin film of oil on the rubber ring on the bottom of the new filter, turn it clockwise to mount it on the crankcase, and tighten as firmly as you can with your hands.

Go back to the drain plug, remove and let whatever oil has collected drain out, then reinstall, tightening to 32 ft.-lbs (43nm).

Pour about 3 1/2 quarts of oil into the crankcase, replace the oil fill cover, start the engine and check for leaks at both the drain plug and the filter, tighten as necessary. To check the oil level, look for a glass window on the right side of the crankcase marked for high (max) and low (min) levels. Get on hands and knees and look under the front crankcase cover directly beside the right operator's footrest; you'll probably need a flashlight to read it. Once the oil level is between the minimum and maximum markings, tighten the oil fill cover, and return the bike to its' normal parking position on the kickstand.

To change the coolant - remove the driver's seat, fuel tank, all four cylinder side covers, and the right side cover (color-matched cover under driver's seat). Prop the motorcycle so that it's as close to level as possible, but will not tip over in either direction. Place a 24"-30" drain pan slightly forward of the center of the engine - if you do not have a large drain pan, a small one placed under the drains individually, IN THE ORDER LISTED, will work. Siphon all coolant from overflow reservoir under the side cover OR remove the center cover, remove bolts holding the reservoir to frame, invert the reservoir to empty, and reattach the reservoir to the frame.

Now, remove the radiator cap and the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator, allow the radiator to empty. Remove the plugs at the lower portion of each cylinder in no particular order, drain fully, then remove the drain plug from the bottom of the water pump (the large protrusion beside the front right driver's footrest). Once all drains have ceased dripping, reinstall the radiator plug (torque to 18 ft.-lb., 25nm), all four cylinder plugs (seat firmly in the drain holes), and the water pump plug (torque to 32 ft.-lb., 43nm). Fill the reservoir in the rear, then fill the radiator as much as possible, cap, and run the engine for 3-5 minutes to warm. Remove the radiator cap, check the radiator and refill, repeating until there is no air beneath the radiator cap when it is removed.

Reinstall the body panels, tank and seat, and return the bike to its' normal parking position on the kickstand. If additional coolant is needed it will be added to the reservoir - check frequently for about the next 100-150 miles.

Note on oil - I've always warned people away from oils that were labeled "energy conserving", but lately I've noticed that those same oils no longer carry that label. I've been seeing a new seal on them; on the outside of the seal are the words "American Petroleum Institute" on the top, "Certified" on the bottom, and in the center of the seal are the words "For Gasoline Engines", and - surprise, surprise! - they ALL contain molybdenum disulfide, the stuff that makes clutches slip. Check the bottles of the oil that you're considering for use in your motorcycle. If you see the API seal, keep going. Unfortunately, a member named "rasolheim" is learning the hard way how expensive an error like that can be; I hope that I can warn others before they make the same mistake.

Note on coolant - using an "extended-life" coolant makes good sense; it'll extend the interval between coolant changes and do a better job of protecting the aluminum cylinder block and heads. It does NOT, however, free you from the responsibility of checking the coolant level and color frequently. Periodic checks (I do it every day, before and after a ride) are your best protection against leaks and corrosion.

Posted on Jul 30, 2010

heimlich
  • 1978 Answers

SOURCE: i have a1996 Yamaha ROYAL STAR 1300 how do know

The model number is printed on the ID plate on the side of the frame neck. Call a Yamaha dealer with the VIN# they can also ID the model of the machine.

Posted on Sep 06, 2010

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