How 2 install auto advance distribitor an set timing on 65 harley panhead
When mark on fly wheel is in middle of hole an auto advance is set in like manual says bike will not start have 2 advance points plate at least 1 quater turn befor it will start. afraid of 2 much advance
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The piont setup is just like what they used to use in cars. Clock wise advances and counterclockwise retards the timing. If your bike has any mods then you kinda have to adjust by trial and error. the book will get you close but not perfect.
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Hi Anonymous, it's too bad you can't find the very first and best tool you ever bought for your Harley Davidson. Despair not, for a mere $6.50 you may be able to download another one from the website below and good luck. Harley Davidson Manuals Mark Workshop
To set your timing, you'll need a strobe type timing light like you use on a auto engine. First, you must find the Front Cylinder Advanced Timing mark. To find this, you must first find the Top Dead Center timing mark on the crankshaft. Take the spark plugs out of the engine, raise the rear wheel of the bike off the ground and put the transmission in high gear. Remove the timing plug on the left side of the engine. Put your finger over the spark plug hole of the front cylinder and bump the rear wheel in the normal direction of rotation until you feel the compression blow your finger off the hole. Take a normal plastic drinking straw, use nothing other than this to find TDC, and insert it into the spark plug hole until it touches the piston. Continue bumping the rear wheel in the normal direction of rotation until the straw comes up and stops or starts to go back down slightly. Bump the wheel forward or backwards until you find the vertical line that indicates TDC in the timing hole. With that being found, gently bump the rear wheel in reverse direction until you see a single dot in the middle of the hole. The drinking straw should have moved downwards about 7/16 of an inch or so. This is the Front Cylinder advanced timing mark and it is what you want to adjust the timer plate in order to see it in the hole. Now that you know what you are looking for, replace the spark plugs, shift the transmission back to neutral, and lower the bike. Remove the plate from the timer cavity on the nosecone of the engine on the right side of the engine. Connect the timing light to the front cyllinder spark plug wire and a battery to run the light. Start the engine and bring it to about 1300-1500 RPM. Shine the light in the hole and look for the Front Cylinder Advanced timing mark in the hole.DO NOT GET YOUR EYE IN LINE WITH THE HOLE WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING OR YOU'RE TURNING THE ENGINE OVER WITH THE STARTER. The engine generates a huge amount of crankcase pressure that will blow oil into your eyes. There is a clear timing plug available but they don't work well. They get oil on them and you can't see through the plug. I usually just stand slighly to the rear of the hole and look into it from a distance from and angle. There will be an oil mist blowing out of the hole during the operation so you'll want to work as quickly as safely possible. If you do not see the dot, you'll have to loosen the lock down bolts that hold the ignition sensor plate in the timer cover. Rotate the plate to change the ignition timing. Rotating the plate clockwise advances the timing making the FCS timing mark move to the rear in the hole. Moving the plate counterclockwise retards the timing making the mark move towards the front of the hole in the engne. If you have an adjustable advance timing light, set it on 35° and use the TDC line to adjust the timing. Once you have properly set the ignition timing, disconnect and plug the vacuum line going to the VOES switch to check it for proper operation. When you do this, the engine RPM should drop indicating that the switch is working properly. Reconnect the vacuum line to the VOES switch.
Been a long time since I've done one of those. Let me brush some cobwebs aside and see if I remember how I did it. The magneto fired Sportster engine was equipped with a mechanical left handlebar ignition advance mechanism. You retarded the timing, got the engine fired, and then advanced the timing using the left handlebar grip that was similar to the throttle. When installing the magneto, make sure you install it with it in it's retarded position which is with the body of the magneto at it's maximum clockwise rotation when viewed from the top of the magneto.
The manneto drive shaft will turn as you drop the unit into the cases. You must turn the drive shaft to a position so that when you drop the magneto into the cam gear case it rotates to a point to where it is just about to open the points. I remove the timing plug of the engine and bring the front cylinder up on Top Dead Center on the compression stroke with the mark in the middle of the hole. Then I'd connect an ohm meter, a "buzz box" or simply use a piece of celophane wrap off a cigarette pack placed between the closed points to give me an indication of exactly when the points began to open. I'd rotate the mag until the points just barely opened with the Front Cylinder TDC mark in the hole. This is setting your initial timing at Top Dead Center on the front cylinder. Once the engine is started, you can set the timing using a timing light to set it the max advance timing to the front cylinder advanced timing mark. With the engine running, advance the timing using the handlebar grip. To adjust the front cylinder timing, connect a timing light to the front cylinder spark plug wire. Shine the light in the hole, loosen the clamp that holds the mag and adjust the magneto position until the front cylinder advanced timing mark is in the hole. Tighten the clamp. When you kill the engine, you turn the handlebar grip back to ****** the magneto. Usually, this results in an initial retarde timing of about 5-7° BTDC.
1. take out the number one spark plug
2. i use a phillips screw driver, and put it in the spark plug hole
3. i use a long handled breaker bar with the correct socket on the fly wheel pulley
4. i turn the pully till the piston brings the screw driver up, and timing marks on pully read top dead center
5. this should bring the number one distributor position on the cap
6. if not you need to remove the distribitor and reinstall to correct mark
To set the timing on our Ironhead, Take the spark plugs out of the engine, get the rear wheel off the ground, and remove the timing plug from the left side cases. Shift the transmission into fourth gear.
Using a plastic drinking straw, (do not use anything else because if whatever you use breaks, you'll have to pull the head to get it out. The drinking straw will not break or damage the piston), inserted into the front cylinder spark plug hole, rotate the rear wheel in the normal running direction until the piston comes up to Top Dead Center. Look in the timing hole and you should see a vertical line in the middle of the hole or there about. If not, rock the rear wheel forwards and backwards a bit until you find it. This is the TDC mark.
Then, start backing the rear wheel up until you see a "dot". This is the "Front Cylinder Advanced Timing Mark". This is what you want to set your timing to. Connect a timing light to the front cylinder.
To check the timing, shift the transmission back into neutral and lower the rear wheel. Install the spark plugs and temporarily install the timing plug. Start the engine and let it warm up just a bit. Then bring the engine to a high idle of 2000-2500 RPM, remove the timing plug, and shine the light into the hole. You should see the dot in the center of the timing hole. Caution: there is a mist of oil that will blow out of the timing hole. Do not let it blow into your eyes. Cover the timing light end with a plastic sandwich bag or something. H-D makes a clear plastic plug but it's not much good. A "Clean & Time" plug works good but you'll have to order one from one of the aftermarket companies.
To change the setting of the timing, remove the cover from the timer cavity on the right side of the engine. Loosen the hold downs on the timing sensor plate and rotate the plate slightly. Rotating it clockwise advances the timing making the timing mark move towards the rear of the timing mark hole. Counterclockwise moves the dot towards the front of the timing hole.
To set the timing on your engine, you'll need a way to lift the bike off the ground and an electronic timing light.
Raise the rear wheel of the bike off the ground and secure it. Remove the spark plugs from the engine. Put the transmission in high gear. Remove the timing plug from the engine case.
Bump the rear wheel in the direction of normal rotation. Using a plastic drinking straw (nothing else or you're asking for trouble) inserted into the front cylinder spark plug hole, bring the piston to top dead center. Once you think you're there, look into the timing hole. You'll should see a staight vertical line. If not, bump the rear wheel a bit to the rear or forward until you find it. This is the TDC front cylinder mark.
Now, slowly bump the rear wheel in the reverse direction until you see another mark on the flywheel. This should be a "dot" as best as I can remember and the piston should be about 7/16" down in the bore from TDC. This is your "Front Cylinder Advanced Timing Mark". This is where you're going to set your timing.
Now, shift the transmission back to neutral. Reinstall the spark plugs. You can purchase a clear plastic "viewing glass" to put into the timing hole or you can start the engine with the timing plug in the hole and remove it when you get the engine going. Shine the timing light into the hole and look for the timing mark. Do not stand directly in front of the hole as oil will be blown out without the "viewing glass". If you're using the glass, sometimes you can't see the timing mark. Protect your timing light by wrapping it in some of that clear plastic wrapping material.
If the timing is off, remove the timing cavity cover on the right side of the engine. Loosen the two standoff screws and move the plate very slightly. Clockwise advances the timing moving the mark towards the rear of the timing hole. Counterclockwise retards the timing and moves the timing mark towards the front of the hole.
First off, you have to find the Front Cylinder Advanced timing mark on the flywheels. Lift the rear wheel of the bike off the ground and support it in a safe manner. Remove the spark plugs from the engine and put the transmission in fifth gear.
Now, using a common everyday plastic drinking straw (Note: don't use anything else or you may damage a piston or it may break off leaving part of whatever you used in the cylinder requiring the removal of the head) , bump the rear wheel in the direction of rotation until the front piston it at Top Dead Center. Remove the timing plug from the crankcase on the left side of the engine. You should see the TDC timing mark in the hole. If not, bump the engine slightly forward or backwards until you do. It should be a straight up and down line on the crank.
Now, slowly start bumping the rear wheel in the backwards direction. You may see a mark come into view that looks kinda like this "oo", this is a factory timing mark,not the front cylinder advanced mark. Continue bumping the rear wheel wheel in the backwards direction until you see the Front Cylinder Advanced mark. It will look like "dot" on the crankshaft "o". The piston should be approximately 7/16" down from TDC, If you go further, you will not see anymore marks until you come back around to the TDC mark.
NOTE, you may or may not have the front cylinder on the compression stroke. It doesn't matter, all you're doing right now is finding the correct timing mark. "
This is the mark you want to time the engine to. Put the transmission back in neutral. Reinstall the spark plugs and connect a timing light to the front cylinder spark plug. Start the engine and set the engine speed at 1300 -1500 RPM. Shine the light into the timing hole. You should see the Front Cylinder Advanced timing mark in the center of the hole. If not, you'll have to move the timing plate on the right side of the engine to get the timing mark in the center of the hole. Moving the plate clockwise advances the timing and moves the timing mark towards the rear of the timing hole. Moving the plate counterclocwise retards the timing and moves the timing mark towards the front of the timing hole.
Harley makes a clear plug to go into the timing hole that is supposed to prevent the oil spray from the oil when the engine is running. I've tried to use them but it is very difficult to see the timing mark when using one. There are other tools available, CleanTime or something like that, but I've never used them. I usually start the engine with the plug loosely screwed into the timing hole. Once I get the engine started and up to speed, I take the plug out. DO NOT GET YOUR FACE NEAR THE HOLE. The crankcase pressure will blow oil in your eye and it hurts. Stand back and a bit off to the side to view into the hole.
If you will contact me directly, I'll scan and send you a picture of what the timing marks look like. A picture is worth a thousand words. Contact me directly at wd4ity @ bellsouth.net
most people set by ear ie;advance 2 degrees at a time ride it in the higher rpm ranges and repeat till it starts to ping back off the last advancement and you should be fine otherwise youll need a degree wheel and help you cant see both sides of motor yourself but if you listen to it run move the distributor one way it will sound dull or slightly muffled the other way the sound will get sharper and clear your looking to be right inbetween
The advance timing should be 35° before Top Dead Center. This is how you find out which mark this is.
Get the rear wheel of the bike off the ground, remove the spark plugs, shift the bike into fourth gear, and remove the timing plug from the left engine case.
Now, take an ordinary PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW and insert it into the front spark plug hole. Do not use anything else or you stand a chance of it breaking and then you'll have to pull the head to get it out. The plastic straw will bend but not break.
Bump the rear wheel in the direction that it turns while riding down the road until the piston pushes the straw all the way up and just barely starts going back down. Look into the timing hole. You should see a timing mark. This is the Top Dead Center mark. Now, bump the rear wheel BACKWARDS until you see another mark. This should be the ADVANCED TIMING MARK. The piston should 7/16" down from top dead center.
On this model Sportster the timing is advanced by a mechanical advance mechanism. These units are notorious for wearing out and not contolling the timing very well. You must remove the breaker plate to inspect this mechanism. Mark the position of the plate before you remove it. If the pins and holes in the flyweights are worn, replace the unit. Replace it with a good needle bearing unit. Replace the points and reset the gap at 0.018 - 0.020".