Question about 2006 Yamaha Stratoliner

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How do i change the fuel pump on 2007 yamaha stratoliner

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  • Yamaha Master
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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/15-stratoliner-roadliner/4698-can-fuel-filter-changed-stratoliner.html
Raider Roadliner Stratoliner fuel pump fix
http://mazko.net/docs/bikers/XV1900-RoadlinerStratoliner06-09REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf
OEM parts for Yamaha
YAMAHA STRATOLINER XV19CTSC Owner Manual

Posted on Jan 08, 2017

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 311 Answers

SOURCE: i need to remove the exhaust for a 2007 yamaha stratoliner.

i think you will find that the cables you are referring to as powervalve cables (if you are talking about the xv1900 in the picture)are not powervalve cales you will find that they are for the auto decompression valve in the cylinder head,if you follow them back you will find they terminate on a lever with a tensioner you can back off the tensioner to remove them but shouldnt have to just to remove the header,hope this helps

Posted on Jul 06, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: What do I need to do to change spark plugs on a

Some basic rules I've learned and all of 20 minutes out of you life. People complain about valve noises or sluggish throttle response, well a crisp set of plugs firing does a lot to resolve these issues and for only $10 (standard plugs) is the cheapest performance mod going.
1) Replace your plugs annually (or at a minumum follow schedule of rear tire replacement) regardless of amount miles.
2) Plain and simple. Don't waste money on iridium because of #1 they spark the same it's just the tips that are suppposed to last longer.
3) Full removal of the tank is not needed but you will need to move it out of the way. Remove seat, remove center speedo and disconnect connectors, remove tank bolts, disconnect vent tube at the front portion of tank, lay a towel across the frame where seat normally goes, lift tank and turn tank sideways it will rest there without removing gas lines underneath, stock air box removal is not needed (BAK is even better for access), not certain what they mean by rider's seat bracket (at the back of the seat?) but obviously this is not needed either. There are wires zip tied to the frame that might need to be pushed out of the way or carefully cut the zip ties and just add new ones when done. (This just allows better access to get to the spark plug on right rear cylinder.)
4) A long screwdriver with small hose on end helps retrieve and reinstall plug on the front cylinder (unless you have very long fingers)
5) Go to auto parts store and purchase a socket with universal swivel for proper angle to losen or tighten plugs
6) A small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads is never a bad thing unless you use too much or it smears across the tips which would probably burn off anyway but that's just sloppy mechanics. (You want to be a sloppy hack like that, well you're outta the club... Go ride another brand.)
7) Use your hand never the socket to start the threads on the new plug. Place new plug in hole near cylinder and spin in reverse to align the threads then go in normal direction. If it does not feel correct at the start - never force it.
8) Do not over torque the spark plugs when tightening.
9) When reconnecting coil wires make certain you press down enough for a positive click to ensure proper connection.
10) Put tank and seat back in place and prepare for the response "why did I wait so long..." on the first ride...
Hope that helps.

Posted on Mar 09, 2010

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: tire pressure for stratoliner

For riding 2 up I recommend 38 front and 42 rear. Some riders have commented on some front wobble corrected by putting the front to 40 psi.

Posted on Mar 09, 2010

  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: my yamaha r1 2007 will not get fuel and my fuel

Check you don't have a kink in the fuel line or the line is not squeezed under something

Posted on May 04, 2010

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2007 Yamaha

Hold the select button for at least 2 seconds on the left side of your handlebars. The switch is on the backside of the controls.

Posted on Aug 11, 2010

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
7. Fuel line to the carburetor or throttle body pinched or kinked.
8. Carburetor float stuck.
9. Fuel injectors clogged.
10. Severely discharged or damaged battery you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
11. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
12. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
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13. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty MAP, CKP, O2, TPS, sensors.
14. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
15. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
16. Faulty CDI box.
17. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
18. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
19. Check for engine trouble codes.
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