- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
YOU MIGHT NEED A NEW THROTTLE CABLE..IF THEIRS NO MORE ADJUSTMENT IN IT..IF YOUR SET SCREWS AREN'T MAKING ANY DIFFERENCE THE POINTS ARE FLATTENED OUT AND NEED REPLACEMENT.WITH BIKE RUNNING AFTER TURNING THEM ALL THE WAY IN THE MOTOR SHOULD DIE IF NOT THERE NO GOOD..COME FROM OVER TIGHTENING..THEY SHOULD SEAT WITH LITTLE PRESSURE..GOOD LUCK..THE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ARE IN BETWEEN THE MOTOR AND CARB AND BETWEEN THE AIR FILTER AND CARB..THIS IS USUALLY THE ONE USED FOR FINE TUNING..I KNOW HARLEY MECHANICS COST ALOT BUT THEY REALLY ARE WORTH THERE WEIGHT IN GOLD AS LONG AS THERE A SEASONED MECHANIC..ID TAKE IT IN FOR A TUNE UP WITCH WOULD INCLUDE CARB ADJUSTMENTS..BECAUSE WITHOUT THE PROPER KNOWLEDGE AND TOOLS ITS ONLY SO GOOD..BEST IS WITH A FLOW METER WITCH BALANCES THEM PRECISELY,,TO EPA STANDARDS..AND HARLEY S OF COURSE..KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN..
Why did you need to clean the carb? Routine servicing of the aircleaner would keep the carb clean for life. The pilot screw should be 1.5 turns out approx. with a small adjustment either way. Idle speed is set to a smooth low idle.If this doesn't fix it have you got something in the carb not replaced correctly? The float needle/float assy? How did you clean it? Have you introduced fluff/dirt into the carb and did you blow it clean with an airline?
Hi montex124, I will try to help. In the past few years carb makers have been making changes. Some carbs have no adjustment at all, the ports are all fixed inside the carb. Other carbs have only the idle speed mixture screw that can be adjusted, like yours seems to have. Is this screw you mention at the top and completely outside of the carb to adjust the throttle? If it is it's probably the idle speed screw which can be adjusted to any idle speed you want and has nothing to do with the air fuel mixture but If it is right next to the idle mixture screw, it might be the high speed mixture screw but is capped so it can't be adjusted. The low and high speed mixture screws should be marked next to each screw H and L. The 1 1/2 turns suggested is sometimes just right but other times has to be adjusted, so you can try adjusting it to get your idle but maybe adjust the idle speed screw first to get a higher RPM so it doesn't stall on you. Like I said earlier it just adjusts the throttle, and is like when you are using it, and giving it gas as they say. I hope this helps just a bit. Regards and good luck. Get back to me if you need more help or just let me know how you did. Denis.
Would be nice to have the year and engine size to verify you actually have a carb and not injection, but, to adjust most carbs, disconnect and plug the vacuum hose to the distributor, attach a vacuum gauge to the manifold, and a tach to the coil. Lower the idle by adjusting the throttle linkage, to the lowest rpm the engine will run at. Turn one of the small adjustment screws in the front of the carb base 'till you have the highest rpm and vacuum (usually not the same....go for best compromise) Then, do the same using the other screw. Repeat again at the first screw and so on 'till they are balanced. Generally it's best to then back off both screws about a quarter turn after you have finished, but sometimes that isn't necessary. Once that adjustment has been made, re-adjust the throttle screw to the correct RPM and re-connect the vacuum line to the distributor. One note...wait a moment after each adjustment so the engine vacuum stabilizes. Some carbs will have the adjustment screws "capped" If you find that, you will need to remove the carb and carefully drill them out without damaging the screw head under the caps.
check for a small brass screw on the carb. if it is on the filter side it is a air adjust screw, turn it out to lean out the carb. if it is on the intake side, it is a fuel adjust screw, screw it out to make it richer. the easiest way to adjust is to turn it slowly one way or another until you get the highest idle without touching the throttle, then adjust back down with the idle adjust screw.
start by synchronizing your throttle plates. Honda calls the next step the "idle drop procedure". u need to know if you have fuel adj. screws or air adj. screws. fuel screws will be on engine side of carb slide, air screws will be on airbox side of carb slide. start leaning out mixture, (turn in fuel screw, turn out air screw. idle will increase so keep adjusting idle back to spec.after each turn if needed. Adjust about 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time on each carb until there is no change in idle, then richen up mixture by one half turn. If u sync throttle plates first then follow this procedure, there should be no hesitation when you "blip" the throttle, and after revving it should return to idle smooth,
Most carbs have the adjustment removed (EPA) but if yours still has the adjusting screws here are the seat of the pants methods:
One Screw Carb: Turn it all the way in and then back out 3-1/2 turns, start the engine and make slight turns in or out until the motor runs smooth from idle to wide open, do not get it too lean, turn in until max RPM is reached then turn out 1/8 turn and go from there.
Two Screw Carb: You adjust the one to remedy either the low or high, high is adjusted until the motor runs smoothly under load at high RPM and the low is adjusted until idle and off idle is smooth.
If you're talking about simply adjusting the idle mixture screw, you need to turn the screw inwards to lean it out. But, if you can get to the idle mixture screw, your carb has been modified as this screw has a "anti-tamper" plug covering the screw. The mixture screw is on the back side of the float bowl facing upwards.
More than likely, it sounds as if someone has rejetted the carb. That year model CV carb came with a a #42 slow jet in the carb. The modification to make them run better was to go to a #45 slow jet. This was in the original Keihen 40mm CV type carb. You can try to adjust the mixture screw and see if that allows you to pass. If it doesn't, repost and let us know. Maybe we can help you rejet your carb. Good Luck!
The air mixture needle valve is on the Carb. Throttle screw as you call it, you might be referring to 1- throttle adjustment at the twist throttle hand grip. 2- At the top of the carb is a throttle cable adjustment 3- some times somewhere between the twist grip and the carb there is an adjustment.4- there is also a idle adjustment at the carb.
×