Question about 2006 Yamaha V Star 1100 Silverado

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What will it cost to replace fork seals - 2006 Yamaha V Star 1100 Silverado

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  • Yamaha Master
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Hi, Anonymous for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://www.reddit.com/r/motorcycles/comments/37ne12/price_to_fix_leaking_forkfork_seal
Part 1 How To Change Changing Fork Seals Fork Seal Oil The Easy Way...
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/V-StarShopManual99-07.pdf
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://www.starmotorcycles.com/assets/service/manuals/2000/LIT-11626-13-36_96.pdf

Posted on Jan 08, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: replacing fork seals

Today is your lucky day. Go to the website below and you can download a free service manual for your bike. Yours is 64th from the bottom of the Yamaha listings. Now you can do a lot more to maintain your bike without the shop cost. Me getting you a manual is a whole lot faster than my one finger keyboard skills.

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Posted on Apr 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Fork seal replacement

Did you try taking down the fork seal and cleaning out with wd/40 and a piece of 30mm film? You should always try this first. The seals rarely go bad. There's probably just a vary small rock holdeing it open and the film will dislodge it the wd is just to help things along.

Posted on May 08, 2009

SOURCE: how to fork seals

First of all you'll need to get the bike up and secured. I dont have a bike jack, but after putting it up on the center stand and jacking it up under the pipes, I was able to put my two carstands under the crash bar to secure it.

1) Remove the front wheel, calipers, speedo cable, and fender.

If you want, drain the oil using the drain plug, but I just let mine pour out the top, and you wont have to worry about stripping the thread or damaging the seal.


2) You'll need to remove the caps from the top of the tube to expose the cap bolts. Loosen the cap bolts before you remove the tubes from the bike (I used a 10mm bolt and two jam nuts on the other end so that the head of the bolt fits into the hex, then you can use a ratchet on the jam nuts to loosen).

3) Loosen the pinch bolts (upper and lower). Make sure you hold onto the fork when loosening the final bolt so it doesnt hit the floor. Put your homemade hex tool back into the cap bolt and with the tube upside down and your foot on a ratchet to hold it, start turning the tube to remove the cap bolt. BE CAREFUL! The spring is behind the cap bolt, so you have to put downward pressure on the tube as you turn so that it doesnt go flying up when it's free. I put my fork in a small tub then the ratchet that I stood on, so when it came free, the nasty oil stays captured in the pan. It's probably easier to do this still on the bike, but I was a bit afraid of the spring pressure, which really turned out to not be that bad.

4) Remove the dust seal by tapping with a screwdriver very lightly. Use a screwdriver to remove the circlip from the tube.

5) Place the spring, spacer, and cap bolt to the side for cleaning. Now you'll have to get the dampener out. You can use a 13/16 spark plug socket that has the hex on one end. I took an old spark plug and put in it, then I had one of those "no foul" spark plug extenders to screw onto the plug so that I had a hex on that end too. Put a layer of elect tape on it to hold it all together and prevent scratching the tube. With a couple of long extensions you can get it down the tube and hold the dampener. Then you can unscrew the retainer bolt (8mm hex) at the bottom of the tube).

Backup method (if you cant get it to hold, take a cheap broomstick handle about 7/8" diameter and saw it off about 30" long and hammer the rounded end into the dampener and that will allow you to hold the stick with a vice and unscrew the bolt (I started off with this method and it did work! But once you get it out and can see it, you can improvise your own tool)

6) You can now remove the dampener, inner tube, seals, and spring from the outer tube. Wash all the parts in a cleaning solution. Use a scotchbrite pad to thoroughly polish the seal surfaces. Check all parts before re-assembly. Be sure to get ALL the dirt and grime from deep down in the bottom of the lower tube.

7) Re-assembly. Make sure you put the little aluminum taper spindle into the end of the inner tube before inserting back into the outer tube. Best to do upside down and slide the outer tube downward so it doesnt fall out (the big end of the spindle faces down!)

icon_cool.gif Once the tubes have completely came together, the spindle is trapped, and you can now turn rightside up. Put the washer on, then grease the inner tube and slide the new oil seal down. The smooth side goes up! Slide on another washer, then you can seat this with about a 30" piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe that is cut squarely on one end. Tap gently with a rubber mallet till the washer is below the circlip groove. Install new circlip.

9) Install new dust seal. Use a 2" piece of PVC pipe this time to drive the dust seal down.

10) Place dampener and spring inside tube. Use your improvised tool to place the dampener back all the way down to the bottom of the tube. You'll need to clean and loc-tite the retaining bolt to screw in from the bottom. If the screw doesn't reach the threads, you put something together wrong. Stand on the allen wrench on the floor and torque the dampener to the manual's specification.

11) Put the tube back in the bike. Torque pinch bolts. Pour 13 ounces of new fork oil into the tube. Work the lower (outer tube) up and down slowly a few times to work the air out). Slide spring down into tube (tightly wound end of spring goes up!) Dont forget the little spring seat that sits on top of the spring. Place spacer into hole next.

12) Use your homemade hex tool and some downward force to get the cap bolt back screwed into the tube. Torque per the book, of course.

13) Replace caps onto cap bolts, Front wheel, calipers, speedo cable, fender, etc.

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: front fork seals leak

what is the problem in the following situation.in the following situation starts even if shift is in neutral position.before changing the alternator was not so.yamkaha fj 1200 1 tx 1987

Posted on Oct 05, 2010

sisadsl
  • 1508 Answers

SOURCE: replacing fork seals on 1995

undo the big allen bolt on the bottom.(a rattle gun helps)
remove the dust seal
remove the circlip
use the fork leg as a kind of slide hammer to separate the top and bottom, and this will pull the seal out.make sure its clean and some WD helps the seal move
It may help to put the axle in and clamp the axle in the vice to hold the bottom end

Posted on Feb 26, 2011

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1 Answer

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Hey Ronald... both fork leg seals are leaking..
Let me understand.. you replaced the entire right fork? or just the seal?. The fork legs themselves may be bent .. if the seal is leaking.. it needs to be replaced.. if it is popped loose... then you need to put a new seal in place and probably a new circlip/seal retaining ring and change the fork oil..while you have it apart, I would check the fork leg for warpage(bent)... you need to find a REAL granite SURFACE PLATE..clean it and roll your clean fork on it.. if its bent, it WILL show up..I think if its more than .001" - .0025" warped, then it needs straightening.. a roller press can do it..or replace it..

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1 Answer

Front right fork, suspension,chain guide


chain needs adjusting or new chain needed, shouldnt be that sloppy, and change both fork seals toghther, its a false economy to change just one, if you do the other will go within a month and cost you double to have the forks removed twice. these are fast bikes and need good maintenace, you would do 180mph with a dodgy fork seals and dodgy chain.

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