Question about 2005 Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI Heritage Softail Classic

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Can't remove clutch cable from resiguar - 2005 Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI Heritage Softail Classic

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Hi Anonymous, for more information on your question please visit the websites below and good luck:
How to Remove the Clutch Cable on Harley Davidson Big Twin Motorcycle

Posted on May 18, 2015

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My Nissan 95 sentra clutch had crunched and pedal would not spring back, found that clutch cable had snapped, replaced this and now my clutch pedal is still not 100% springing back, it springs back en


Check the spring to see if it has snapped anywhere within it's coil.

Remove the cable and check operation of the pedal and spring mechanism.
If all is well, then with a lever, check that the clutch release arm on the gearbox is operational. If that is also sticking, then you will have to remove the gearbox to investigate further.
If not sticking, then also remove the clutch cable outer sleeve, and replace.

Nov 10, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need new clutchplate & pressure plate for manua


Instructions
  1. Remove the Old Clutch
    • 1Verify that your vehicle's clutch is the source of your problems and not the pedal-arm bushings, activating cables or the slave-master cylinder.
    • 2Unhook the positive battery cable, the clutch cable or hydraulic slave cylinder to get the transaxle ready for easy removal. Eliminate anything that may hinder your efforts, including exhaust pipes and the speedometer.
    • 3
    • Secure your car in a safe position before jacking up the front end.
    • 4Stabilize the engine with a jack below the oil pan. Remove the transaxle by undoing at least one engine mount.
    • 5Separate the engine from the transaxle by removing the bolts that surround the flywheel bell housing.
    • 6Push the transaxle away from the engine until the input shift clears the pressure plate.
    • 7Disengage the bolts surrounding the pressure plate and take it and the clutch disc out. Check to see if the flywheel's friction surface is scored, checked or has hot spots. Remove, machine and reinstall the flywheel, if needed.
    • 8Examine the pilot bearing (bushing) located at the flywheel's center to be sure the needle bearings are lubricated and that there's no galling. Also look for any oil leaking around the rear main engine seal.
    Replace the Clutch
    • 9Follow the instructions for replacing your car's clutch carefully to avoid having to remove the transaxle.
    • 10Check that the transaxle's input shaft isn't leaking; replace if needed.
    • 11Take out the flywheel and the old seal and install a new seal.
    Install a New Clutch
    • 12Clean the crankshaft flange before putting in the flywheel. With the flywheel on top of the flange, secure the bolts in a star formation to the specified torque for your vehicle.
    • 13Install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Prior to putting in the transaxle, attach the new release bearing to the release fork. The fork should move freely.
    • 14Hoist the transaxle into position and move it forward until the input shaft glides into the clutch disc's spindled hole. Do not apply force.
    • 15Reinstall any bolts or mounts that were removed to replace your car's clutch. Grab the transaxle, release the jack and lower your vehicle.
    • 16Consider replacing your car's clutch cable. If you don't replace the cable at least adjust it for the right amount of free-play.
    • 17Confirm that your clutch's self-adjusting action is performing correctly by depressing the slave cylinder's piston into its bore.
    • 18Drive your car to be sure your clutch is working properly.

Sep 03, 2012 | 1987 Nissan Pickup

1 Answer

How to do a clutch adjustment


this really depends on what car you have, if it has a cable type clutch you need to make sure there is a little free-play in the pedal, tighten the cable just enough to be able to shift easily with the engine running without removing the free-play if the clutch slips loosen the cable. if it slips but you can't shift easily you need a new clutch.
If you have a hydraulic clutch and you can't shift bleed it, if it slips you need a new clutch. here again you need to have freeplay in the pedal for the master cylinder to work properly. hope this helps

Mar 19, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why does clutch have no tension on cr85r Honda


Bolt the clutch cable's tensioner on your left lever mount assy.Unbolt the clutch cable's nuts at its bottom mount and pull so that you remove any **** it may has. When you bolt them back on, make sure that the clutch lever has a 2-3cm freeplay (measuring its end ball movement).If you still don't have tension, then you must take off the right hand crancase cover and check the fiction plates as well as the tension springs behind the 4 bolts which mounts the pressure plate against the clutch basket.

Feb 05, 2012 | 2005 Honda FSC 600 S

1 Answer

I have to let my clutch handle all the way out before it catches.I installed new clutch and pressure plates, and adjusted it according to the manual, but same problem


You haven't adjusted it correctly. You must adjust the clutch in the exact sequence that the manual tells you to. A lot of people don't like the idea of having to loosen the clutch cable but it has to be done. Find the cable adjuster and loosen the lock nut. Turn the adjuster barrel inwards and get a LOT of slack in the cable. Then, remove the derby cover. You'll see the clutch assembly with the adjuster screw and locknut in the center. Loosen the locknut and turn the screw outwards until it's loose. Turn it back inwards until you feel a resistance. Do not force the screw and you may have to turn it back out and then back in several times until you get the feel of what you're doing. Once you feel the resistance, back the screw back out 1/2 turn and lock the lock nut down. Replace the derby cover. Then adjust the cable adjuster barrel back out until you have about an 1/8" free play in the cable. This should adjust your clutch to a more acceptable engagement point. Since your clutch discs are new, be prepared to adjust your clutch several more times as the plates "seat in".

Good Luck
Steve

Sep 09, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard

1 Answer

Clutch chatters at times and doesn't fully engage or dissengage at times on 2005 Harley XL 1200 C sportster.


Since you said it that "doesn't fully engage or disengage at times", my first suspicion is the clutch cable. If the cable is stretched or frayed, this would cause all of these problems. The first thing I'd do is lubricate the cable and adjust the clutch. You can get a cable lubricating kit from most places that sell aftermarket parts and maybe even the dealership. Once you've lubricated the cable, find the cable adjuster in the middle of the cable and push the protective boot up or down to gain access. Then, loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster inwards to get a good amount of slack in the cable. Then, take the derby cover off the primary and remove the spring and lock nut from the clutch adjuster. Turn the screw counterclockwise as far as it will go. Don't force it though. Then turn the screw back clockwise 1/4 turn. Replace the lock nut, spring, and derby cover. Go back to the cable adjuster and turn the adjuster barrel outwards until you have about 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play in the cable. Try this and see if it helps. If not, you may need to service the clutch but it takes a special tool to disassemble the assembly. Make sure you've got the right amount of oil in the primary case. There may be an oil level check plug in the rear of the primary. Stand the bike straight up and remove the plug. The oil level should be to where the oil just runs out of the hole. If there is not a check hole, drain the primary and refill with one quart of oil.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 25, 2011 | Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom...

1 Answer

Acting like the clutch is slipping in 4th gear when I open it up, like cruising at 2000rpm then get on it


If the clutch is actiing like it's slipping, then it probably is. You need to adjust the clutch to see if that will help. To do this, first loosen the locknut on the cable adjuster at the front of the primary cover. Turn the cable adjuster inwards far enough to get a good bit of slack in the cable. Remove the round plug at the rear of the primary where the clutch is. Remove the spring and the lock nut from the adjuster. Inside, you'll see an adjuster screw. Turn the screw inwards until you feel the resistance of the clutch and then continue two more turns. Then, go back to the clutch cable adjuster and turn it outwards just until you have take out all the freeplay. Back at the clutch adjuster screw out until it's once again free, turn it inwards until you feel the resistance, then back it out about 1/4 turn. Lock the locknut down. You should have about 1/16th inch of freetravel in the clutch cable at the lever. If this does not cure the slipping problem, you may need to put new clutch fiber discs in the clutch assembly.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 14, 2011 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

2 Answers

I need to know the exact specifications to the clutch pushrod on a 93 katana 750


There's no exact spec cause you set the clutch to the way you like it. With the clutch cable adjusted loose. ( the cable adjuster at the clutch handle backed up so thiers alot of free play at the handle). Lossen the lock nut at the clutch pushrod and screw in the adjuster screw till it tightens up. If the handle losses all of the freeplay them back up the cable adjustment even more You may find another adjuster wher the cable enters the engine case. Reconizing the only reason you need to do this is because your putting on a new cable or have installed a new clutch, If you did'nt do any of these repairs the problem that your trying to correct may be a sticking and binding cable. This is a common problem and you pull in the clutch and it's hard to do and you let the clutch out and it slips and engages badly,, With the cable removed ( or loosened up good) It should move very easily in the housing. if it doesn't remove it and move it back an forth all the way and see if it'll loosen up putting it in solvent or rust buster working it back and forth with a good cable lube in it till it works real smooth with little or no resistance. If you can't getr it to work smoothly you need a new cable. with the cable installed loosly turn the screw in till it tightens up and then pull the clutch handle. if the cable is still loose tighten it up till theiers just a little free play ( almost none) This adjusts the cable. Then back out the clutch rod screw trying the handle as you turn the screw till you get a noticeable amount of freeplay at the handle. ( 1/4-1/2 inch) . once completed put the bike in gear and with the bike off and in gear pull the cluch in and rolol the bike slowly letting the cluch out to see where it engages. if it seems good start it up and if it feels good and does'nt grind the gears and starts moving at a reasonable space off the grip, lock all the adjustments and take it for a ride. If the cable acts up any get a new one.

Aug 05, 2011 | 1995 Suzuki GSX 600 F (Katana)

1 Answer

Having trouble changing the clutch lever from old to new one , not sure how to get clutch cable out of handle, 1983 wide glide, I don't want to start somthing and end up costing shop and mechanic time....


First - find the adjuster. It's down on the front frame tube - it's usually in a rubber boot but being an 83 the boot maybe missing. Adjust the barrels of the cable adjuster together to effectively shorten the cable sheath which will put slack in the cable. Then, remove the pivot of the clutch lever and then remove the lever from the perch. You will see how the cable end is held to the lever - remove that pin and the cable will come off the lever. Put the new lever on (use grease at the pivots after you clean everything up) and then adjust the cable so that you have maybe 1/2" of free play measured at the end of the lever and then lock down the adjuster and you're done! It's a pretty easy task once you get through the first time! Goooood luck - I hope this is the info you were looking for!

Jun 08, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide...

1 Answer

Clucth replacement


To replace the clutch discs in your clutch pack, first disconnect the battery and drain the oil from the primary case. Remove the primary case. Take the circlip in the middle of the clutch assembly out and remove the clutch adjuster plate. Then loosen and remove the bolts that hold the clutch together. Loosen them all and take them out evenly loosening each bolt one or two turns at a time so as not to warp the clutch spring. Once you get this off, you can remove the spring and the clutch plates. As you take the individual parts out, notice the sequence that they are installed in the clutch basket. When you replace the parts you wish to replace, make sure you get everything back in the proper order. Put a little Loctite 242 med. blue on each of the bolts that hold the spring plate on. Replace the clutch adjuster plate and circlip. Replace the primary cover and fill with oil up to the bottom edge of the outer clutch basket with the bike standing straight up. Do not overfill or your clutch will drag. Adjust the clutch according to the manual.

To adjust the clutch, find the clutch cable adjuster in the middle of the clutch cable. Slide the protective boot up or down and loosen the lock nut. Turn the adjuster barrel inwards to get as much slack as you can get.

Remove the derby if you don't have it off. Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster screw in the middle of the clutch assembly. Back the center screw up until it's completely free and then turn it back in until you feel a resistance. DO NOT FORCE THE SCREW. It will break the inner clutch hub if you force it. If necessary, perform this several times to get the "feel" of what you're doing. Once you feel the resistance, stop, then back off 1/2 turn. Tighten the lock nut down.

Then go back to the cable adjuster and turn the adjuster barrel out until you've got about an 1/8 freeplay in the cable. Squeeze the clutch a few times and recheck the freeplay. Tighten the lock nut and replace the rubber boot.

Good Luck
Steve

May 19, 2011 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

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