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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
raise the front of the bike off the ground with a scissor jack and then lift up on the front wheel while somebody holds the bike. You should not feel it move back and forth but it should still turn freely. There should be NO sideways play in it is what I am trying to say but still be able to turn smoothly
Posted on Sep 05, 2009
The advance timing should be 35° before Top Dead Center. This is how you find out which mark this is.
Get the rear wheel of the bike off the ground, remove the spark plugs, shift the bike into fourth gear, and remove the timing plug from the left engine case.
Now, take an ordinary PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW and insert it into the front spark plug hole. Do not use anything else or you stand a chance of it breaking and then you'll have to pull the head to get it out. The plastic straw will bend but not break.
Bump the rear wheel in the direction that it turns while riding down the road until the piston pushes the straw all the way up and just barely starts going back down. Look into the timing hole. You should see a timing mark. This is the Top Dead Center mark. Now, bump the rear wheel BACKWARDS until you see another mark. This should be the ADVANCED TIMING MARK. The piston should 7/16" down from top dead center.
On this model Sportster the timing is advanced by a mechanical advance mechanism. These units are notorious for wearing out and not contolling the timing very well. You must remove the breaker plate to inspect this mechanism. Mark the position of the plate before you remove it. If the pins and holes in the flyweights are worn, replace the unit. Replace it with a good needle bearing unit. Replace the points and reset the gap at 0.018 - 0.020".
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
With the float bowl off and the float assembled in the carb, hold the carb on it's side with the needle and seat hinge upwards.
Set the float height to 0.630" to 0.670" (16-17mm) from the "bottom" of the float to the gasket surface where the float bowl gasket seal is.
These carbs are notorious for leaking past the needle and seat even when the float level is set correctly. They make a tool for refurbishing the seat in the carb as it is not replacable but the tool is very expensive for what it is and the amount of use will get out of it ($100). Sometimes I've set the float level an additional 1mm low (18mm) to put more pressure on the needle if it does leak. Good Luck!
Posted on Nov 13, 2009
Like they say, mileage may vary depending on conditions and how you choose to drive. But ..if you were trying to see how far you could go on a gallon..you might be surprised to find out that you could probably get close to 55 miles a gallon. With my 1987 1100CC Sportster, I got 55 MPG. Then I put on Screaming Eagle Carb and pipes and the MPG dropped to 45MPG. Typically you can beat the MPG numbers that the Manufacturer gives you if you go easy on the throttle and don't exceed the speed limit, and drive smoothly. Good luck!
Posted on Apr 09, 2010
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