SS super b carbarator adjustment on 1984 iron head

Why did you need to clean the carb? Routine servicing of the aircleaner would keep the carb clean for life. The pilot screw should be 1.5 turns out approx. with a small adjustment either way. Idle speed is set to a smooth low idle.If this doesn't fix it have you got something in the carb not replaced correctly? The float needle/float assy? How did you clean it? Have you introduced fluff/dirt into the carb and did you blow it clean with an airline?

Replace your fuel filter first, cheap and easy to rule out, probably needs it anyways. Could also be a massive vacuum leak. On that year's carb there are 2 adjustments... Here's a page on idle tuning: http://sterlingmetalworks.com/tuning_the_nikki.htm

Possible things to be considered: Float level too high, needle has a bad seat and won't shut off, vacuum leak (either internal or base gasket), choke not properly adjusted.

My money would go on a carb. rebuild kit (but only if you feel comfortable attempting it) it's not all that difficult, but you MUST be (1) an absolute nut about cleaning it all very well, and (2) the various gaps, clearances, adjustments, must be made with excruciating precision.

This will be a lot cheaper than a rebuilt carb., and you'll get the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

While you're at it do a general tune up.....plugs, points condenser, wires , air filter, PCV, etc.

I don't know how to change the tuning step from .2 Mhz to .1 Mhz, but whatever you do - don't adjust those tunable slugs! If you are told to - I would be very suspect of any procedure that says you must. Those types of coils are adjusted by a threaded iron core that when turned by the slot on top, either raise up from or slide down into the coil. Furthermore, use of a metal screwdriver is a big no-no to make those adjustments. Specially made fiberglass tweaker tools are used to adjust or tune these iron slugs, and often require special equipment (o-scope, DMM, etc) or other specific detailed procedure for proper setup. Fiberglass is used as it does not interact with the iron slug like a metal screwdriver would (appearing as more metal) by affecting the magnetic field of the coil. It has nothing to due with electric shock protection. Good luck!

mcdevito75 here, Sounds like everything in the engine could be out of adjustment, Dirty plugs, bad wires, dirty air filter, Have your local repair shop take a look, a tune up may be the answer, specially if not tune in 1 year.

The Super B carb is not as forgiving of improper jetting as the Super E model carb due to the lack of an accelerator pump. The only adjustment you have on the carb is the idle mixture screw and idle stop screw. The idle stop screw simply adjusts the idle speed of the engine. The idle mixture screw should be adjusted somewhere between 3/4 and 1 1/4 turn out from the bottom. If it is out of this range, the carb is not jetted correctly.

Through experience over the years I've found that the Super B used on a Big Twin Harley should be jetted 29.5 on the slow jet with a 70 or 72 on the main jet. If used on an Ironhead Sportster, slow jet of 26 with either a 66 or 68 main jet.

The way to tune the carb slow speed circuit is to allow the engine to warm up and adjust the idle mixture screw one turn off the bottom. Then try to rev the engine. If the engine does not rev cleanly, try coming out a half turn on the idle mixture. If it seems to help, continue until it revs cleanly. If this is the case, you slow jetting is too lean, install a richer jet and repeat the above procedure. Once you get it tuned to where the engine revs cleanly with the idle mixture screw at one turn out, you low speed jetting is correct.

The high speed jetting is not quite as simple to set as this has to be done on the road. I usually find a long uphill run to test the jetting to keep top speeds reasonable. At about 55-60 miles per hour, roll the throttle on in high gear. Feel the way the engine pulls. If it pulls good, back off on the throttle about 1/8th turn. If it pulls better, it's just slightly lean. If when you roll the throttle on, the engine starts spitting back through the carb and doesn't run well, you are way lean. Either way move upwards on your jet size one step at the time and retest.

If the bike seems sluggish and blows black smoke when you do the "roll-on", you're too rich. Install leaner jet one step at a time.

Now, most people confuse a "mid range stumble" with a carb problem. All efforts to tune this stumble out done on the carb are futile. The problem is in the exhaust system. Most bikes do not like open drag pipes for street use. They will exhibit this mid range stumble. The remedy is to put a bolt with three nuts on it on the inside of the pipe or any other means to create just a bit of backpressure on the exhaust. This usually cures the problem or at least makes it easier to live with.

Full tuning procedures can be downloaded on the S & S site. Go to "Technical" page, then "Installation instructions" to download the full paperwork that came with your Super B.

I hope this helps and Good Luck.

carbarator cleaner??make shure the ear-filter is clean and not clogged with dirt and dust, brakes ujusted properly,and also a dirty or clogged fuel filter will slow down performance,,,good luck

change plugs, wires, and clean the carb. Just a basic tune up. If you don't know how to do the carb, just, at least, spray som e carb cleaner through it. It doesn;t get to all the places it should, but it will help somewhat. Adjust the air screws to get highest idle, without any misfiring. Check timing.

You actually have 4 carburetors on that bike. Remove the bodywork, the seat, and I think the fuel tank has to come off, then you should see the four carbs. Best bet, take it to a dealer and have them do a tune up, they will clean and adjust the carbs as part of the service.