Question about 2004 Harley Davidson FLHTC - FLHTCI Electra Glide classic
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The torque specs are the same as with any Evolution engine. The compensator sprocket 150-165 foot pounds.
Clutch hub nut (left handed threads) 60-80 foot pounds.
Use Loctite 271 on threads. Two lines in nut on Compensator and one line in clutch hub nut.
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
The fuel gauge is really two parts. You have a guage and a sending unit. You must have voltage going to the unit as well. On most models, the wires that supply voltage to the gauge run upwards through a small tube in the tank for the bottom of the tank. There is a connector at the bottom of the tank in most cases.
Using a VOM (volt/ohm meter) unplug the connector beneath the tank and check for voltage with the ignition switch on. You should have approx. 12 volts. Once you've finished this test, turn the switch back to the off position.
Next, you will have to check the sending unit. Remove the gauge from it's rubber gasket that holds it in position on the tank. Carefully work the gauge up and out of the rubber sleeve because the wires are very short. Once you have the gauge out, you'll have to check the resistance of the sending unit with the tank nearly full and then again with the tank nearly empty. If the resistance of the sending unit changes, the problem is probably the gauge itself. If the resistance does not change, the problem is more than likely with the sending unit. Check the sending unit for a good ground as well.
The sending unit is held in the tank by five or six small screws. Remove these screws and lift the unit slightly. Do not attempt to remove the sending unit with the fuel tanks full and the bike on the side stand. Fuel will be all the way to the top of the tank and will spill out when you attempt to remove the sending unit. While lifting the unit, turn it working the float arm out of the tank. Be very careful not to bend the float arm. Once you have the unit out of the tank, you can check the unit's resistance again. When you remove the sending unit, always replace the gasket that goes beneath the unit.
Be very careful, you are working with gasoline and expolsive fumes. Do not smoke or have any open flames near.
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
SOURCE: when i drive my bike
This is unusual. I'm afraid that if your transmission is doing this, you are going to have to do at least a partial teardown of the transmission.
I could be that the shifter cam is not rotating fully to put the 5th gear clutch dog into gear. This would cause just the tips of the lugs to be driving the final drive gear. And, it could jump out and back in from time to time.
Now, why the shifter cam is not rotating fully is the question. If the rest of the gears seem to be shifting fine, I wouldn't think it was the shifter pawl but it could be.
If it were mine, I'd remove the exhaust system and whatever else needed to gain good access to the the transmission top cover. Remove the cover and raise the rear of the bike off the ground. Now, you can shift the transmission and watch the actions of the shifter cam. You may spot something wrong there and be able to repair the problem without pulling the transmission out of the frame. If not, you may have to pull the entire transmission or at least the trap doors with the shafts to inspect the final drive gear. You may wind up replacing the final drive gear if the clutch dog has been jumping in and out of gear.
One other thing. Have you checked your front belt pulley? I've seen the splines in the pulleys wear to the point that they just strip out and won't pull the bike in any gear. Check that before you start tearing down the transmission. Usually when this happens, (excessive wear on the front pulley) it is accompanied by a small transmission fluid leak. If you ride the bike and park it, it'll leak a spot about the size of silver dollar. If you wipe the spot up, it won't leak again until you either ride the bike again or start it up. Then, it'll leak again. The transmission fluid is leaking past the "quad seal" behind the pulley.
Posted on Dec 20, 2010
SOURCE: my 2007 flhtc harley davidson
If the bike is equipped with a carburetor, check the fuel petcock. In 1996, Harley went to a vacuum operated fuel petcock. It has a diaphragm in the backside of it that can develop a hole in it. When this happens, no fuel gets to the carb or not enough. To test, pull the hose off the carb and put the end of it in a catch can. Spin the engine with the starter and watch for fuel coming out of the hose. Or, if you have a hand operated vacuum pump, plug the hose from it onto the nipple on the backside of the petcock. Apply vacuum and watch for fuel flow. You can drain the tank and remove the petcock from the tank. Take the square plate off the backside of the petcock. Notice how the parts come out of the petcock. Hold the diaphragm up to a light and gently stretch it looking for a hole. You can buy a replacement diaphragm at your local H-D dealership. Personally, I'd change the petcock to a high quality manually operated one. You'll have to turn your fuel on and off manually, old school style. But, you won't have anymore problems with it.
Posted on Jun 18, 2011
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