Question about 1999 kawasaki ZR-7

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Fuel in air box?

I recently just purchased a 2000 zr750 I was told i had a float valve sticking. So i took all the carbs off and replaced them. Which helped sooo much. Now i got raw gas leaking out of my air box. but only if i ride it. My guess is float level? How would i go about fixing that?

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  • Anonymous Mar 12, 2009

    so the little pendulium's are just by the air intake side of the carbs? if so how are they alligned to the chamber or adjusted? can this be done with out taking all the carbs off?

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Make sure that all of your little pendulium's that block the gas line when floats are raised are properly aligned in the chamber

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • j69bigdaddy Mar 17, 2009

    they are attached to the floats in the bowls of you carb, you should be able to reach these with just removing your seath and gas tank. It is possible to do so while on the bike but it is easier off. Just for comfort reason though.

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Got petral coming out the left hand pipe when i kick it up


More than likely, it's going to be a stuck float on the left carburetor, along with a fouled left spark plug. Too much un-metered fuel just pouring into that cylinder will cause it to run very poorly on that side if it runs at all. Generally it will foul the plug, causing it not to spark.

Resolution: Pull the plug out. Turn the fuel off. Place a rag over the spark plug hole. Start the engine and rev it up a couple of times to expel all of the built up fuel in the left side. Run it until you run the carbs dry. Remove the rag, and install a new spark plug in the left side. Remove the left carb, and remove the float bowl and check to make sure the main jet is still screwed in and snug. Now check for any sticking of the floats when holding the carb upright. Floats should move without resistance up and down. Attach a small piece of tubing that fits the fuel line connection on that carb, Holding it upright again blow through it as you raise and lower the floats. You should hear the air going through when the float is down, and stops when you raise the float. If this is not the case then the needle valve that stops the fuel when the float is up, is worn or damaged and gummed up. Set the carb on your bench and remove the pivot pin holding the floats in place, and gently lift them out. In most cases, there is a tiny little clip that connects to the float to the needle valve. carefully remove the float and the attached needle valve. Inspect the needle valve. the rubber cone tip should be clean and have n damage, or rings of wear on it at all. With the needle valve removed, blow through the tubing again to blow out an debris that may be in the carb housing. If the neelde valve is gummed up or sticky in anyway, spray it with carburetor clearer. Spray some into the brass needle valve seat in the carb and then through the opening too. This will remove any gummy or stick fuel residue in there. Spray inside the float bowl as well. this whole area must be spotlessly clean before reassemble. If there is ANY visible wear on the rubber tip of the needle valve, it must be replaced. Since this is an Indian model ( Japanese models only ran from 1973-1975), you will need to source the parts from India.

Once the carb is cleaned, repaired, and reassembled, retest it with the tubing again, and blow through it with the carb in it's normal upright position. Air should go through easily. Turn the carb upside down, and blow again. No air should go through at all. If this is the case, the carb is ready to be reinstalled on the engine.

Once installed turn the gas on and start the bike. There may still be some residule extra fuel in the crank case which will make it run rich on that side for a short time.

I hope this solves the problem for you.

Jun 18, 2014 | 1986 Yamaha RD 350

1 Answer

What can cause gas leaking into the air box on a Kawasaki ZR-7?


A float valve in the carbs is sticking or the float height settings are incorrect or a float has a hole in it.

Might also be worth checking your engine's valve clearances while you are at it as there could be a slight pressure leak causing blowback.

Do not use Pri on your fuel tap until this is sorted as it could cause hydraulic lock in your engine, which will wreck it. Fuel will flow through your carbs into the engine when it is parked.
This will also ruin your engine oil as the fuel will mix with it.

May 07, 2014 | 2000 kawasaki ZR-7

2 Answers

Fuel leaking out of carburettor thru air intake valve


try screwing the bolt of the fuuel holderr in the carborator, whhichh is generally used for overflow, screw it tight ,

Apr 15, 2014 | 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

Problem with starting my bike


Sticking floats or worn float valve needles or incorrect float height, tap float bowls to see it overflow stops (sticky float), remove and clean float bowls and fuel inlet passage with carb cleaner and compressed air, check float valve for wear to the rubber tip. Reset float height by slightly bending the metal tab on the float to adjust the closing height of the valve measure from the carb bowl mating surface to the top of the float when fitted then re adjust 1mm at a time higher untill fuel doesnt over flow.

Jan 25, 2012 | 1989 Yamaha FZX 750

2 Answers

Fuel leaking into air box.


Probable best to take the carbs back, as there may be something clogging one of the float needle jets.
Although the bike is getting old, the floatlevels dont normally wear out of adjustment, as they have a neoprene end on one end of the needle and a spring loaded pin on the float end,
Unless there is damage to one of the floats.

Note ethanol in fuel can affect some carb parts like neoprene seals

Jun 04, 2010 | 1985 kawasaki ZL 900 A1 Eliminator

1 Answer

My 84 YZ250 had the throttle lock up - like full throttle with no change by throttle grip - had to turn gas off at shutoff valve to get it to stop - any idea .......... other question - is the throttle...


There should be a small air gap at the bottom between the slide and the venturi. A couple things to check are (we'll start easy and progress from there):

Remove the carb from the air box and the intake boot, but do not remove the top screw cap or cable from the carb. Once you are holding the carb in your hand, twist the throttle and see if the slide moves up and down freely. Does it return to the botton of the venturi on it's own when the throttle is released (or you twist the throttle forward)? If not, and the slide is sticking open, it is allowing more fuel/air in which is the problem. There is a spring under the top cap which should push the slide back down when you release the throttle. If it's sticking open, it's either a broken cable (you wouldn't see the slide go up and down when you twist the throttle if it's broken), or an unlubricated cable, a piece of debris in the carb between the slide and the carb body, or the spring is whacked. Unscrew the top cap, slowly pull the cap, spring, and slide up and check the spring. You can't miss it, it's a big one right under the cap. If it looks ok, check for debris on the side of the slide and in the carb body to see if there is sand/dirt causing the slide to stick open. If all of this checks out ok, then check the cable for free movement when you twist the throttle. If it's sticky, lube the cable. If it's ok, move to the next step.

On the bottom of the slide you will see the jet needle. It's long, skinny and tapers at the bottom. Try moving the needle up and down. It should be pretty snug. If the "c" clip that holds the needle came off, it will sometimes allow the needle to remain open which will cause this problem too. If the needle is ok (in place nice and solid and doesn't move up and down freely), then go to the next step:

Remove the float bowl and check to see if the float, float valve (under the back edge of the float where the float attaches), and seat (where the valve rests in the carb body) are all in good shape. If the float has a hole in it, or the tang holding the valve clip is bent, it will cause the float to drop down lower in the bowl, which opens the valve and allows more fuel in. Also check that the clip that connects the valve to the float did not come loose. If there is a problem with the float or float valve allowing too much fuel into the bowl, the excess fuel runs into the engine (via vacuum when the engine is running) and will cause the problem you are seeing. In this instance though, there is normally excess fuel coming out of the overflow hole on the side of the carb when the bike is not running and the fuel is on. If your problem just happened once and you shut the fuel off (and haven't turned it back on yet), put the float bowl back on, reinstall the carb and try opening the petcock (gas shut off valve). Let it sit for a few hours or overnight with the gas on. If the float or float valve is bad, you should see gas drip out of the overflow on the side of the carb. You may not have seen this if the problem just started happening while the engine was running. It was sucking the excess fuel into the engine causing it to rev wide open. When you shut off the gas flow, it prevented having the excess fuel drip out the overflow hole and letting you know it was a float problem. Hope this helps.

Nov 19, 2009 | Yamaha YZ 250 Motorcycles

1 Answer

I have fuel in crank case in 1996 road king .took off cam cap and oil and gas came out. gasket was leaking. also gas and oil coming out of carbruator.


Usually when you find gasoline in your crankcase it's because your carburator is leaking fuel into the cylinder heads. From there it goes into the cylinders on top of the pistons. Down past the rings into the crankcase. If enough gasoline goes in there, it will go past the sprocket shaft seal and into the primary case as well.

This is normally caused by a bit of trash getting under the float valve in the carburator. But, on a 1996 model, there is supposed to be a vacuum operated petcock. The petcock is supposed to close whenever there is no vacuum on it that is supplied from the intake manifold. Either the petcock has been changed, which is not unusual since the petcocks were quite troublesome, or it is not working properly.

First, you need to clean out the carb. and get any trash out from under the float valve. Remove the carb from the engine. Take the float bowl off the bottom of the carb. Pull the pin out that holds the floats and remove them and the float needle valve. Blow compressed air through the fuel inlet fitting to clean any trash out of the fuel valve seat. Inspect the needle valve for damage, replace if necessary. Reassemble and reinstall the carburator. Check for proper operation prior to starting the engine.

With the carb cleaned, you can install either an aftermarket manual petcock (Pingel) or a Harley petcock for a 1994 or prior model. These are manual petcocks. When you're not riding your bike, turn the petcock to the "OFF" position. Also, install a fuel filter in your fuel line between the tank and the carb. Get one of the good ones with the scintered metal filters in it.

Change your oil and filter. Check your primary oil as well. Change it if contaminated with gasoline. Before you reinstall your air filter, connect the fuel line to the carb and turn the gas on. Closely watch the inside of the carb throat to see if fuel starts to "bubble up" into the throat of the carb. This usually takes a few minutes so be patient. If it does, you need to replace the float valve needle with a new one and check the float setting. If it doesn't "bubble up" you're good to go. Then, don't forget to turn your petcock to the "OFF" position when you quit riding the bike.

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2 Answers

Air box and crank case fuel flooding problem happened before, thinking it was stuck or worn float needles; I installed 2 Carb float needles left side facing rear of carbs , all larger main jets, all...


Well there only one way the fuel can get into the crankcase and that's from the fuel tank. The petcock must be draining and the float needles are not stopping the fuel flow. Do you have a prime position on the petcock? If so do not run the bike in the position. Try topping the tank off with gas and letting it sit for a while and see is the gas has gone down and then check the crankcase and see if there's fuel in it again. i still say its got to be your petcock.

Sep 29, 2009 | 2005 kawasaki ZRX 1200 R

1 Answer

My 2000 Vulcan 800 Classic has gas in air filter


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Your posted description indicates a carb overflow and that the carbs require a pulldown, disassembly; soaking in carb cleaner, cleaning the jets, vents, holes, ports and the walls of the bowl and inner body for the varnish like gunk of old/stale gasoline specially the fuel inlet valve.

As fuel is fed to the carbs,  the floats in the carb's bowl would rise up and engage the inlet cutoff valve closing the inlet port and therefore no further fuel would flow in. Fuel overflow would then indicate possibly that:
  • the valves are not closing;
  • their is an obstruction along the inlet ports and blocks closing of the valves;
  • floats are stuck open or punctured;
  • the float height would require adjustments;
  • necking, ridges, grooves, scratches exist on either the valve or the port allowing fuel entry even if closed.
All of the above would require a pulldown of the carbs for inspection, further cleaning or applicable repairs/rebuilt as initially described.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Aug 17, 2009 | 2000 kawasaki VN 800 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

Pendulums? what are they


They are called fuel floats. they float on top of the fuel in the fuel bowl and are attached to a valve that closes the fuel supply from the tank when a certain fuel level is reached inside the fuel bowl. Fuel level is crucial to air/fuel mixture and overflow can end up in the air box - more likely inside of your engine cases. To ckeck the float level consult your repair manual for instructions.

Mar 12, 2009 | 2000 kawasaki ZR-7

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