Question about 2008 Ducati Monster S4Rs Testastretta

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Clutch pedal won't come back after fully engaged

Clutch was working ok for a while (only losing slight pressure when fully enaged). Now it's completely not working. It won't come back after being fully engaged. Nothing is leaking - completly dry under car and fluid is full. Is this a problem with the clutch master cylinder or throw out bearing or something else? Car = 99 honda accord coupe ex (4 cylinder)

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You will need to rebuild or replace both the master & slave cylinders. Then bleed like a brake system.

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

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I have a 1.8 w reg ford focus. I drive for 6miles then the car loses power every gear chance I put foot down reves go up but car not pivking up speed what could this be


Clutch is slipping. The clutch pedal should have an inch or two of free travel before it starts to disengage. As long as you haven't driven it like that for very long, adjusting the free play should fix it. But if it has gotten hot enough to smoke (which will cause the disk to glaze and/or weaken the pressure plate) the clutch parts (disk, pressure plate and throw-out bearing) will need to be replaced.

The test: after adjusting for adequate free play, drive the car, and while accelerating depress the clutch half way and then immediately take you foot off of it. It should engage immediately and should not slip. If it takes more than a second or two for it to fully engage, the clutch parts are bad.

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My question is what needs replaced? The clutch? Master and slave cylinder? I don't want to order parts I don't need so if anyone else has run into this please don't hesitate to help a fellow out


I would suggest looking at your slave cylinder first . Check for obvious signs of leaking . That is what generally goes out first then losing your fluid your master cylinder goes out or at very least needs to be bled . Sounds more like your master has also gone out .

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My clutch won't engage 1997 Honda civic


Clutch plate and pressure plate seem to be too weak to pull the car. To test the clutch plate, park the car on flat surface. Pull the hand brake up, start the car, depress the foot brake pedal, depress the clutch pedal, put the car in 1st gear, press the gas pedal and leave the clutch pedal at once, while keeping the brake pedal depressed.
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I went to go mow the lawn for the first time this season. Tractor started right up. took the deck cleaned and greased it. Went to engage the p.t.o. for the mower and the tractor stalled. Can't figure...


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

The power sequence for engaging the blade deck is. Clutch brake pedal depressed, operator in seat, Enage selected and brake pedal released. When the blade enages the engine igniton kill wire is routed through the seat switch AND the PTO clutch. If either the PTO Clutch or the seat switch has a problem the engine dies. Same goes for the clutch brake pedal switch... if the clutch brake is not coming all the way up the engine will die.

If you respond with a model number (example LX2000) I can show via a manual where you need to troubleshoot using a meter.

Do a couple of good bounces on the seat, check the clutch brake pedal switch for clicks and then attempt to an engagement.

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My clutch pedal used to be pretty stout and the clutch would engage at about the midway point to the floor. All of a sudden the clutch pedal is pretty free to the floor where the clutch now engages. what...


sounds to me like the clutch master cylinder might be bad usually this happens when the line or the clutch master cylinder leaks fluid and you lose pressure to your clutch pedal...you should have a hydraulic clutch on this truck...if its leaking it will need to be replaced its located under the truck usually on the drivers side mounted on the transmission bell housing...hopes this helps

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1997 Probe Gt, 5 speed, 2.5 L V-6; 77,750 miles: replaced clutch master cylinder 11/15/2010. Clutch free play okay, pressure to push clutch pedal down- okay (these conditions apply to vehicle after...


THe problem can only really be with the clutch master cylinder. What you describe sounds like the master cylinder is not relieving pressure and this is building up in the salve cylinder, applying pressure to the pressure place and causing the clutch to slip. Can you make the problem go away even temporarily, if you open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder? You say that the free play is correct, but is the master cylinder returning fully to its released position?

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I have a 89 toyota pickup 4 speed. When I'm stopped at a stop light, and let out on the clutch it seems like it has lost pressure. When I'm shifting down the road it shifts fine. I checked the fluid and it...


this sounds like the clutch slave is goin out, this unit is on the outside of the transmission. Possibly losing pressure!! Your transmission does not use transmission fluid, but instead gear oil. Have the following checked:
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*2. Clutch pedal Mounting Plate (possibly cracked)-this will cause improper gear engagement, hard gear engagement, soft pedal feel, insufficient clutch movement.

*this plate is located above the clutch pedal itself, apply pressure on the pedal with one hand while inspecting the plate for fatigue cracks(use a bright flashlight). This is very common on these models. This problem will eventually get worst and most mechanics never figure this out.

more questions email me at gimconsulting@ymail.com!!

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Clutch suddenly not engaging until pedal completely released


Two things, first does it slip at all? If you put it in high gear and hammer it, does the engine rev up? If so, you may have a spring problem causing the clutch to not fully contact the pressure plate and will result in this problem.

Is the fluids in the master cylinder full? Do you have a leak? Bad pressure? I'd check those before going on to more difficult remedies.

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