I have a w reg (2000) speedfight 1 liquid cooled.I removed thge engine so I could get the crank seals changed but when I got it back and put the engine back on I was unable to get a spark. I have changed everything except for the stator and pickup but I am still not able to get a spark. I have checked the coil for resistance values and they seem to be correct. Any help with this would be very greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Check the exhaust if its the original, renowned for getting carboned up. This will make it falter as you described, I had one that would actually pull, but 3 hundreds yards down the road conked out, exhaust was blocked. Best fix is to take it off and go to your nearest garage and get them to blow it through with an airline.
If its water cooled then may be the head, clear the exhaust first and then remove the head, seals are large o'rings but there should be at least 2mm of metal between seal groove and cylinder area. If not get a secondhand one and but new aluminium bolts, Use a gasket sealant also, just ot be sure.
Drain coolant,pull radiator,fan shroud off.Need a fan tool to get that off.Need to pull ac,alt,ps and brackets off. to expose front of engine. Need crank pulley puller. Once that's done the timing cover can be removed. Hint,spring for a new timing set. loosen engine mounts and lift engine at bell-housing remove oil pan bolts.and reverse.Might as well replace oil pump if you intend to keep the van.
If the milky cylinder was the rear cylinder you probably have a bad rear engine seal . I recommend you buy a complete top end kit (pistons, rings, gaskets, and seals). Pull the motor, tear it down, break the gaze on the cylinders with a hone, and put it back together. It will be just like a brand new motor when your done. Replace your spark plug caps and spark plugs. Break it in like a new motor and you should be good for another ten years. If that is just to expensive for you just pull the motor remove the stator plate and pull off the bottom case half. Now you can replace the crank seals only.
do you mean wont crank over and start till it cools off? if thats the case it sounds like you got a bad crankshaft position sensor,,thge sensor is fine when its cold and warm but when it gets hot it goes open and the cars computer cant see the rpm and shuts the engine off,and then when it cools off the sensor works again and the car starts and is ok till it gets hot again,if thats the case thats what it is,,,hope this helps,,,about $100 for the part
Wrong. just remove the oil pan, exhaust downpipe and O2 sensor, and starter. take off the crank bearing brace and finally remove the rear main bearing cap. half the seal will be in the cap and half you push out from around the crank with a small brass punch so as not to damage the crank pull out with needle nose pliers and slide the new one in ( noting that oil should go on the mating surface of the crank and liquid dish soap on the outside of the upper seal). rtv the lower seals wings (top and bottom) and reinstall. rear main cap 80ft.lbs i believe, 35ft.lbs for the bearing brace. or just follow this tutorial with pics http://dailydriventj.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=811