Question about 1987 kawasaki GPz 1000 RX

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How do i remove the damper rod seat at the base of the stachion,does it tap out.

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  • 132 Answers

To remove the damper rod you have to remove the allen bolt underneath the bottom of the fork leg. if you find this just turns try using a wooden broom shank to hold it as you undo the bolt.its best to undo the bolt 1st before you strip the fork springs out. hope this helps

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

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Yamaha tzr 50


That is actually a bit tricky issue. You don't want to damage fairing or tail, and there are no easy access to the release mechanism, if the key feature & wire action doesn't work. I ended up forcing the seat off the front tab. It's plastic and can take some brutality, without breaking. Still the latch/lock mechanism were engaged, but I was able to force the seat up some, and with a flashlight, could have sort of a view to the lock. A long thin rod inserted from right side and backwards against the release, and a tap on the rod w/ a plastic hammer worked.
However.... Aftermath: the easiest way will be to drill a hole from underneath, in the back of the plastic tray behind the battery. Drill half an inch off center to the left. There from beeing able to access release mechanism with a small screwdriver or similar. Release direction is left (ie wire pull w/ key).
Hope this helped.
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Mar 14, 2014 | Yamaha Motorcycles

1 Answer

1988 hurricane wont start cold


Instructions
    • 1 Lift the CBR onto its center stand. Unlock the seat latch with the ignition key and remove the seat. Remove the clip screws from the top portion of both seat rail covers, positioned below the fuel tank and the seat, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the seat rail covers away from the motorcycle's frame.
    • 2 Remove both bolts from the front of the fuel tank, using a socket wrench and a 10 mm socket. Lift the tank up and prop it open using the support rod on the motorcycle's frame. Reach under the tank and unplug the fuel pump's wiring connector and all three hoses from the bottom of the tank. Take note of hoses' locations before removing them for reinstallation purposes. Pull the hairpin clip out from the support rod's base. Unscrew the pivot bolt from the base of the fuel tank, using a 10 mm socket. Lift the fuel tank off of the motorcycle.

    • 3 Unscrew the air box's mounting bolt from the frame's right seat rail, using a 10 mm socket. Loosen the clamps securing the air box's flanges to the carburetors' inlets, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the air box towards the rear of the motorcycle to separate its flanges from the carburetors.
    • 4 Loosen the clamps securing the carburetors to the motor's intake manifolds, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the carburetors off of the motor and out through the left side of the motorcycle's frame. The carburetors will still be attached to the motorcycle by its throttle and choke cables. Loosen the choke and throttle cables' lock nuts, using a 10 mm wrench. Remove the cables.
    • 5 Hold the carburetors over a large container. Unscrew the drain screws on the side of each carburetor's float bowl, positioned at the very bottom of the carburetor, using a flat-head screwdriver. Allow the fuel trapped within the float bowl to drain completely, then tighten the drain screws.
    • 6 Flip the carburetor over, with the float bowls up, and place it on a clear work space. Unscrew the bolts from the float bowls, using a Phillips screwdriver, then pull the float bowls and their gaskets away from the carburetors.
    • 7 Unscrew the pilot jet from each carburetor, using a flat-head screwdriver. The pilot jet is placed to the left (with the carburetor facing you) of the main jet in the center of the carburetor. Screw a new pilot jet into place with a flat-head screwdriver.
    • 8 Reinstall the float bowls and their gaskets onto the carburetors. Tighten the float bowls' screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Reattach the throttle and clutch cables to the carburetors and tighten the cables' lock nuts with a 10 mm wrench. Slide the carburetors through the left side of the frame. Push the carburetors into the motor's intake manifolds. Tighten the intake manifolds' clamps with a Phillips screwdriver.
    • 9 Pull the air box against the carburetors and push the air box's flanges over the carburetors' inlets. Tighten the flanges' clamps with a Phillips screwdriver. Screw the air box's mounting bolt onto the frame's right seat rail, using a 10 mm socket.
    • 10 Lay the fuel tank onto the motorcycle's frame. Insert the tank's pivot bolt through the hinge at the base of the tank. Screw the pivot bolt's nut into place, using a 10 mm socket. Lift the tank up and reattach the tank support rod to the motorcycle's frame. Insert the hairpin clip into the support rod's base. Prop the tank up on the support rod. Plug the wiring connector into the fuel pump and reconnect all three hoses onto the bottom of the tank. Screw both mounting bolts onto the front of the fuel tank, using a 10 mm socket.
    • 11 Mount the seat rail covers onto the motorcycle's frame. Insert and tighten the covers' clip screws, using a Phillips screwdriver. Lay the seat onto the seat rails, then press the rear of the seat down until the seat latch locks into place.

Jan 14, 2013 | 1988 Honda CBR 1000 F

1 Answer

Where r the plugs on gsxr750t srad plz


Remove the rider's seat, using an Allen socket to unscrew the pair of bolts that secure the rear of the seat to the frame. Lift the rear of the seat upward then pull the seat toward the rear of the motorcycle to disengage it from the frame's catch tabs.

  • 2 Remove the pair of bolts that secure the front of the gas tank to the frame. Lift the fuel tank upward on the pivot at the base of the tank. Support the fuel tank against the frame using the tank's support rod.
  • 3 Remove the air box. Pull the three air hoses from the air box. Loosen the clamps on the air box's rubber boots with a screwdriver, and pull the air box out of the motorcycle.
  • 4 Pull the four coil packs out of the motor's cylinders. Clear any dirt and debris that has accumulated on top of the cylinders with compressed air, directing the air into the spark plug holes that the coil packs were installed in. Remove the spark plugs using a spark plug socket attached to a socket extension.
  • 5 Install new, properly gapped spark plugs into the motor with a spark plug socket. Tighten the socket until it is seated firmly against the motor. Reinstall the coil packs onto the spark plugs.
  • 6 Reinstall the air box, tightening the clamps on the rubber boots to secure the air box to the throttle bodies. Reconnect the trio of air hoses to the air box.
  • 7 Remove the tank support rod and lower the fuel tank onto the frame. Insert and tighten the fuel tank bolts with an Allen socket. Reinstall the seat, firmly tightening the mounting bolts with an Allen socket.
  • Oct 25, 2011 | Motorcycles

    1 Answer

    Need specs on damper rod holder part# YM-01454/90890--1454


    Remove rod with air driven impact wrench. Use existing rod as jig to align fingers on 7/8 pipe. Weld and grind fingers to interlock with cartridge. Presto instant specialized tool and save $50. YM-04154.
    4_28_2015_7_44_44_pm.jpg4_28_2015_7_44_46_pm.jpg

    Sep 17, 2011 | Yamaha yZ 85LW Motorcycles

    1 Answer

    How much fork oil goes in the forks of an 2001 FXD and how do I do this ? Do you have any diagrams to help me with ?




    I have no diagrams for you. MAke your own as you take it apart etc and take lots of cell phone pictures if you need help remembering how to put things back together.

    Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts



    MODEL OZ CC IN. MM



    FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9



    FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 184.9



    FXDL 10.7 316 7.20 182.9



    FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9




    Changing fork oil is a simple mater for some models and requires fork disassembly for others. Here is the procedure for all 2001 DYNA models:

    2001 DYNA FRONT FORK OIL 1.18


    REPLACING FORK OIL Replace front fork oil at every 20,000 mile (32,000 km) service interval and/or prior to storage.


    ALL BUT FXDX & FXDXT models


    Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, on FXDL models, remove the center plug from each fork cap, on all other models, remove the fork tube caps, remove the drain screws from the bottom of each fork and drain the fork oil, replace the drain screws and washers and tighten the screws

    to 13-17 in-lbs (1.5-2.0 Nm) THEN see Table 1-6. and fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) as set out in the Table. THEN if apart assemble the forks as follows:


    a. FXD, FXDXT, FXDWG models: install both fork tube caps and tighten them to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm).

    b. FXDL models: install center plugs and tighten until secure.


    Fork oil amounts can be measured two ways: use the oz./cc measurement if fork is left in frame; use the in./mm measurement if the fork is disassembled in which case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.


    Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts for 2001 DYNA


    MODEL OZ CC IN. MM

    FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9

    FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 182.9

    FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9


    PART NO. SPECIALTY TOOL

    HD-41177 Fork tube holder

    HD-41549A Fork spring compression tool

    HD-41551 Spring plate tool

    HD-36583 Fork seal installer

    HD-59000A Pro-level oil gauge



    FRONT FORKS: FXDX & FXDXT 2.20

    REMOVAL

    Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove both front brake calipers and the front wheel, remove the front fender, remove the front fairing, remove the headlamp bracket and attach the headlamp to the frame using a rubber bungee strap, loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts and pull the fork sides from the brackets.


    DISASSEMBLY

    Remove the stopper ring, remove the spring preload adjuster but DO NOT unthread the rebound adjuster from the damper rod because incorrect assembly could result in reduced adjustment range. THEN unthread the fork cap from the fork tube and allow the fork leg to drop, exposing the spring, THEN get a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL (Part No. HD-41549A) on the spring collar, turn the screws in to engage the holes in collar, compress the spring until the SPRING PLATE TOOL (Part No. HD-

    41551) can be positioned between the spacer and the spring collar, THEN hold the fork bolt and compression adjuster, remove the fork bolt from the compression adjuster, remove the spring adjuster plate from the fork bolt, remove spacer, spring collar and spring, pour out the fork oil by pumping the fork leg and rod 8-10 times or until rod the moves freely. THEN position fork slider in vise using a FORK TUBE HOLDER such as (Part No. HD-41177) to avoid damage. THEN remove the socket head bolt, remove the damper from the fork tube, remove the cover from the slider, remove seal and stopper ring, pull the fork tube out of the slider, remove the oil seal, spacer and guide bushing from the fork tube.


    CLEANING AND INSPECTION

    Measure the fork spring free length and replace the spring if it is shorter than 17.00 in. (431.8 mm), check the fork tube and the slider for score marks, scratches or abnormal wear, check the slide and guide bushings for excessive wear or scratches, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure runout which should not exceed 0.008 in. (0.2 mm).


    ASSEMBLY

    Coat the oil seal with TYPE E FORK OIL, before installing the slide bushing and guide bushing, lubricate them with fork oil, THEN install the guide bushing and the spacer seal noting that the guide bushing opening must be oriented to the side and NOT to the front or rear, THEN slip the slider into the fork tube, place the slide bushing over the fork tube until it rests on the slider, drive the guide bushing with the spacer seal into the slider, lubricate a new oil seal with TYPE E FORK Oil, drive the oil seal into the slider using FORK SEAL INSTALLER (Part No. HD-36583). install the stopper ring and dust seal, (if the rebound adjuster was removed from the damper rod bottom the lock nut on the threaded portion of damper rod, holding a thumb on the detent spring and ball, back out (turn counterclockwise) the rebound adjuster to the last "click." and then turn down (clockwise) 17 "clicks", thread the rebound adjuster onto the damper rod until the adjuster stops at maximum thread engagement (but do not force it), thread the locknut onto the damper rod up until it contacts the base of the rebound adjuster and tighten it in place), THEN holding the slider in a vise while being careful not to damage it. install the damper tube into the fork tube and tighten the socket screw and washer to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN pour half the TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube, slowly pump the damper rod 10 or more times, position the damper rod in the fully bottomed position and pour the remaining amount of TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube. THEN using a PRO-LEVEL OIL GAUGE (Part No. HD-59000A) or similar adjust the oil level to 5.04 in. (128 mm). THEN carefully clean and install the spring, the spring collar, and the spacers with the sharp edge created when they were stamped out when manufactured, facing the collar. THEN using a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL such as (Part No. HD-41549A) push spring collar down and place a SPRING PLATE such as (Part No. HD-41551) between the spacer and the spring collar, install the fork cap and tighten it against the rebound adjuster to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN tighten the fork cap onto the fork tube to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm), install the spring adjuster plate, replace the O-rings on the spring preload adjuster and lubricate them with fork oil. THEN install the spring preload adjuster and the stopper ring and carefully drive the slider cover into the slider.


    INSTALLATION

    Insert both fork side assemblies up through the fork stem and bracket and upper bracket and tighten the fork stem bracket pinch bolt(s) to 30-35 ft-lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). Then re-install the headlamp bracket, install the front fender, install the front wheel and the brake caliper When the motorcycle is again ready for the road adjust the headlamp and road test the motorcycle.






    Feb 10, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide...

    1 Answer

    How do you remove the forks on a 2001 fxd superglide






    Hopefully you will glean all you need to know from this but if you want or need more information or more FXD specific information PLEASE H

    Hopefully the information below will be okay BUT if you need any more or any more specific information please post a comment and describe what you want/need.

    REPLACING FORK OIL Replace front fork oil at every 20,000 mile (32,000 km) service interval and/or prior to storage.


    ALL BUT FXDX & FXDXT models


    Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, on FXDL models, remove the center plug from each fork cap, on all other models, remove the fork tube caps, remove the drain screws from the bottom of each fork and drain the fork oil, replace the drain screws and washers and tighten the screws

    to 13-17 in-lbs (1.5-2.0 Nm) THEN see Table 1-6. and fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) as set out in the Table. THEN if apart assemble the forks as follows:


    a. FXD, FXDXT, FXDWG models: install both fork tube caps and tighten them to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm).

    b. FXDL models: install center plugs and tighten until secure.


    Fork oil amounts can be measured two ways: use the oz./cc measurement if fork is left in frame; use the in./mm measurement if the fork is disassembled in which case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.


    Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts for 2001 DYNA


    MODEL OZ CC IN. MM

    FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9

    FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 182.9

    FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9


    PART NO. SPECIALTY TOOL

    HD-41177 Fork tube holder

    HD-41549A Fork spring compression tool

    HD-41551 Spring plate tool

    HD-36583 Fork seal installer

    HD-59000A Pro-level oil gauge



    FRONT FORKS: FXDX & FXDXT 2.20

    REMOVAL

    Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove both front brake calipers and the front wheel, remove the front fender, remove the front fairing, remove the headlamp bracket and attach the headlamp to the frame using a rubber bungee strap, loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts and pull the fork sides from the brackets.


    DISASSEMBLY

    Remove the stopper ring, remove the spring preload adjuster but DO NOT unthread the rebound adjuster from the damper rod because incorrect assembly could result in reduced adjustment range. THEN unthread the fork cap from the fork tube and allow the fork leg to drop, exposing the spring, THEN get a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL (Part No. HD-41549A) on the spring collar, turn the screws in to engage the holes in collar, compress the spring until the SPRING PLATE TOOL (Part No. HD-

    41551) can be positioned between the spacer and the spring collar, THEN hold the fork bolt and compression adjuster, remove the fork bolt from the compression adjuster, remove the spring adjuster plate from the fork bolt, remove spacer, spring collar and spring, pour out the fork oil by pumping the fork leg and rod 8-10 times or until rod the moves freely. THEN position fork slider in vise using a FORK TUBE HOLDER such as (Part No. HD-41177) to avoid damage. THEN remove the socket head bolt, remove the damper from the fork tube, remove the cover from the slider, remove seal and stopper ring, pull the fork tube out of the slider, remove the oil seal, spacer and guide bushing from the fork tube.


    CLEANING AND INSPECTION

    Measure the fork spring free length and replace the spring if it is shorter than 17.00 in. (431.8 mm), check the fork tube and the slider for score marks, scratches or abnormal wear, check the slide and guide bushings for excessive wear or scratches, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure runout which should not exceed 0.008 in. (0.2 mm).


    ASSEMBLY

    Coat the oil seal with TYPE E FORK OIL, before installing the slide bushing and guide bushing, lubricate them with fork oil, THEN install the guide bushing and the spacer seal noting that the guide bushing opening must be oriented to the side and NOT to the front or rear, THEN slip the slider into the fork tube, place the slide bushing over the fork tube until it rests on the slider, drive the guide bushing with the spacer seal into the slider, lubricate a new oil seal with TYPE E FORK Oil, drive the oil seal into the slider using FORK SEAL INSTALLER (Part No. HD-36583). install the stopper ring and dust seal, (if the rebound adjuster was removed from the damper rod bottom the lock nut on the threaded portion of damper rod, holding a thumb on the detent spring and ball, back out (turn counterclockwise) the rebound adjuster to the last "click." and then turn down (clockwise) 17 "clicks", thread the rebound adjuster onto the damper rod until the adjuster stops at maximum thread engagement (but do not force it), thread the locknut onto the damper rod up until it contacts the base of the rebound adjuster and tighten it in place), THEN holding the slider in a vise while being careful not to damage it. install the damper tube into the fork tube and tighten the socket screw and washer to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN pour half the TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube, slowly pump the damper rod 10 or more times, position the damper rod in the fully bottomed position and pour the remaining amount of TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube. THEN using a PRO-LEVEL OIL GAUGE (Part No. HD-59000A) or similar adjust the oil level to 5.04 in. (128 mm). THEN carefully clean and install the spring, the spring collar, and the spacers with the sharp edge created when they were stamped out when manufactured, facing the collar. THEN using a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL such as (Part No. HD-41549A) push spring collar down and place a SPRING PLATE such as (Part No. HD-41551) between the spacer and the spring collar, install the fork cap and tighten it against the rebound adjuster to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN tighten the fork cap onto the fork tube to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm), install the spring adjuster plate, replace the O-rings on the spring preload adjuster and lubricate them with fork oil. THEN install the spring preload adjuster and the stopper ring and carefully drive the slider cover into the slider.


    INSTALLATION

    Insert both fork side assemblies up through the fork stem and bracket and upper bracket and tighten the fork stem bracket pinch bolt(s) to 30-35 ft-lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). Then re-install the headlamp bracket, install the front fender, install the front wheel and the brake caliper When the motorcycle is again ready for the road adjust the headlamp and road test the motorcycle.

    Oct 01, 2010 | 2001 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

    1 Answer

    How to remove seat from vrscdx motorcycle


    Hi, removing removing the seat on a VRSC model also known as V-Rod is quite easy, simply lift the "star board" (or right hand) edge of the seat , as you face forward. The seat will pivot right up...
    Take care

    Aug 03, 2010 | 2008 Harley Davidson VRSCDX Night Rod...

    1 Answer

    Removal of Battery


    lift seat up,then remove the air box decortive cover then remove air box cover remove air filter and at the base of the velocity stack are o-rings slide them up and remove the5mm screws then remove the bottom of the air box and the batttery is up front disconnect the cables and pull the rubber strape towards you and down then remove battery when replacing the velocity stacks do not over tighten the allen screws and make sure you put the o-rings back down to the base good luck

    May 05, 2010 | 2002 Harley Davidson VRSCA V-Rod

    1 Answer

    Top end repair: After all is removed and replaced, how do I reinstall the piston into the cylinder? What are torque specs for cyl? Inch or ft. lbs?


    You will want to install the piston onto the crank before you install the cylinder and head. With the head and cylinder off, the crank rod will be exposed. Put some shop towels around the crank rod before you start to avoid dropping any small parts into your lower end while you replace the piston. Your new piston kit should come with: (1) piston, (2) circlips,(1) wrist pin and (1 or 2) rings depending on the bike. Also it is suggested that you should replace the wrist pin bearing as well (usually sold seperately). If you have not removed the existing piston you will need to remove one of the circlips from the side of the piston. Do this by using a small screwdriver in the teardrop hole where the wristpin attaches the piston to the crank. Then push the wristpin through the piston from the side that still has a circlip through the side that it has been removed from. Once the wristpin is out, the piston will pull straight up off the crank and the wristpin bearing will slide out of the crank rod. Before installing your new parts you will want to have some 2-Stroke oil on hand. Lube up the wrist pin bearing with 2-stroke oil and slide it into the crank rod. Install ONE of the circlips into the piston before connecting it to the bike. Do this in a clean area because these things like to jump out when you're trying to put them in. BE SURE IT SEATS FULLY INTO ITS GROOVE. Once ONE circlip is in, slide the piston over the crank rod WITH THE ARROW ON THE TOP OF THE PISTON FACING THE EXHAUST!! so the wrist pin hole lines up with the wrist pin bearings. Lube the wrist pin and slide it into the piston from the side with out the circlip, through the wrist pin bearing until it seats against the circlip installed on the opposite side. Install the second circlip and MAKE SURE IT SEATS FULLY INTO ITS GROOVE. Install the rings onto the piston. (Some OEM rings have a flat side and a sloped side be sure to match the piston you have removed) Notice that there are tiny notches in the rings that must line up with nipples in the ring seats. This is the only way the cylinder will slide on properly. Next, put a thin coat of oil on the cylinder walls, remove the shop towels, and put on the cylinder base gasket. Now, with one hand, pinch the rings tight to the ring seats making sure the nipples in the ring seats sit in the notches of the rings. With the other hand, slide the cylinder over the piston. THIS SHOULD SLIDE DOWN EASILY! If not, remove the cylinder, verify the rings are properly seating in the ring seats and try again. Once the cylinder is on install the base nuts. If you can get a torque wrench on the cylinder base nuts tighten down to manufacture spec's (24 ft lbs) Usually you can not get a torque wrench on the base nuts because the cylinder walls are in the way so I give it a german torque "goot-n-tite" (good and tight). Next put the head gasket on and the head gasket, and tighten down finger tight. Do this in a criss cross pattern, starting off with hand tight, then 3 or 4 steps until reaching the manufacture spec (18 ft.lbs). Put the plug in and you should be ready to go. Be sure to break in properly by running 3 heat cycles through the enging. From fully cooled, start the bike and ride it using NO MORE THAN 1/2 throttle until it reaches full temp. keeping the RPM's varying. Let cool COMPLETELY. Second heat cycle, same thing except use up to 3/4 throttle. Cool COMPLETLY AGAIN. Third heat cycle ride up to full throttle. Be sure to keep the RPM's varying in all heat cycles. No long runs at the same RPM level. Here is where I got the specs for the cylinder and head torque settings so you may want to call a local shop and verify. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-764174.html

    Oct 11, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki RM 125

    2 Answers

    Recently i put new chrome upper and lower forks on my 2008 ultra classic noticed a small oil leak at the bottom of the right fork a 6mm allen head bolt with a flat brass washer, washer needs to be...


    if you have removed spring , then should be able to compres fork leg to see gap round damper rod , wedge a round tube of wood between gap rod and inner wall of fork stantion , that should stop it turning.

    Sep 01, 2009 | Harley Davidson FLHTC - FLHTCI Electra...

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