My 70cc has spark air going into the carbarater it is 4 stroke and i put starting fluid into the carbarater and it did not even jump and then i tried running with it and popped it up into 1st gear and it kind of started up but died so and i dont know what to do can you please help me oh and it is an automattic and it just wont start
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you have spark and fuel ( quickstart) but it wont fire
probably because the third component to make an engine run is missing and that is compression
If it is 4 stroke then it will be a valve problem or rings--if 2 stroke it will be crank shaft seals or rings
If it is a 2 stroke ,then it is a good thing it didn't start because there is no lubricating oil in starter fluid
Enough.... You should have dipstick to tell you how much oil should be used. This dipstick is meant to be checked when fully screwed out and with the bike on the center stand if available. If no dipstick, you should find a small glass window somewhere on the side of the crankcase. Compare the oil level there to the marks on the crankcase. If you're still confused the FSM should have more accurate fluid requirements for different situations/procedures.
if its a 2 stroke then you need fuel spark and air to get the bike to start have you got compression? check it by removing the spark plug and put your finger over the hole air try and start the bike your finger should be pulled into the hole if not then a piston ring is either cracked or broken
open the air box and check the filter then clean the carb thats all you need for a 2 stroke
if its a 4 stroke then again check the air filter and compression remember that a 4 stroke doesnt have the oil with the fuel it goes in a separate chamber
Go easy on twisting the throttle. Every time you twist, a shot of raw gas goes into the carb. The bike will flood easily. Put in a new spark plug, clean the air filter and drain the carb float bowl. Then get a can of starting spray. Spray into the air filter and then try to start it. The gas valve is turned on isn't it?
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There are a few things I would recommend; get some Marvel mystery oil, remove spark plug and fill cylinder with the marvel. allow to sit at least overnight before draining and pull the starter a couple times to free up the piston rings. While you are waiting, remove the carb and fuel tank - flush both with starting fluid first then fresh fuel. If you are familiar with carburetors and air / fuel jets, count the turns on each respectively to bottom then remove. Soak in starting fluid for at least an hour and flush out respective ports with starting fluid then carb cleaner then fresh fuel. Use non - lubricated starting fluid as you want the highest concentration of Ether to break loose the varnished fuel.Flush out fuel lines and primer bubble ( if equipped) with fresh fuel and spark plug out. You can best do this by re - installing fuel tank and filling with fresh mixed fuel, adding the fuel stabilizer at double the recommended strength - this will not harm the motor, just help it start and stay running. Place an air hose blow nozzle in the mouth of the tank, wrap with a clean rag and gently blast air into the tank until 1/4 of fuel in tank has passed through. Cap tank and turn saw over to drain the fuel out of the cylinder, giving it at least 10 minutes to drain. Now replace spark plug and follow starting procedures - you should have it running strong now!! If it refuses to start or sputter in the first 5 pulls, remove spark plug and shoot a 2 second blast of lubricated starting fluid into the cylinder. Install plug and start. You may have varnish issues due to the lengthy storage time and you may be better served by getting a rebuild kit for the carb and rebuilding it or even replacing carb. Fortunately 2 stroke carbs are much easier to rebuild than a 4 stroke. Good luck!!!
The single coil ignition system works on a twin cyclinder 4 stroke motor by sparking every revolution. In other words, whilst one cyclinder is on a power stroke, the pother has just started an intake stroke, and so both spark plugs can fire together every revolution using a single coil.
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Who said the swap would work? If it was the dealers shop mechanic then it may work. Anyone else and I would be doubtfull.
The old Yamaha 125 / 175 could swap. The key is the stroke length. You are changing the bore, no big deal. BUT if the stroke is different the swap will not work.
Check with the dealers parts department. Look at the engine specs of the 49cc and the 70cc. If the stroke is the same, then it MAY work. A few unknowns are present. Ignoring the unknowns, did you use new cylinder base and head gaskets? New carb and manifold gaskets? Where is the 70cc carb and manifold? You have 42% more gas/air mix needed but a carb designed for 42% less than now needed. If nothing else, the engine may be starving for fuel. Granted the carb may have the 70cc capacity, but the only way to tell is by compairing the part numbers at the dealers.
One last thought. If the engine is a two stroke, how good are the crank seals? You are increasing the bottom end pressure by the swap. How much pressure is getting past the seals? Lower than needed pressure = no go.
put your hand over the carberatoer to choke it while your dad kicks it and after about 3-4 kicks in the middle of him kicking et go and it should build up enouphg pressure to start it up.ive used this method many times on my 200cc yamaha