Question about 2003 Yamaha FZS 600 Fazer

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Bike does not start

Ignition turn on and every other elecrtical function is in working order, but unable to start the engine with the electric starter on yamaha fzs 600cc fazer 2004. I am thinking the battery is the problem as the bike has not been used for few weeks. Can you advise please, thanks

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  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2014

    When i was going to long drive my fzs is not going more than 90kmph .could be give me a reason so that i able to sgest my bike to mechanic

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Hi, I would start by checking to be sure the battery has a good enough charge, if not then locate the starter relay and try jumping the two terminals on it and seeing if the bike will start that way if so then you will need to replace the starter relay. good luck

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

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Doesn't completely start


Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, 12.5 volts or better,to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid has dropped more than 1/2 volt.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
If a lower voltage is produced a proper battery load test should be performed with a load tester to validate battery integrity or battery replacement.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buy a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1 Answer

My 2004 dt 125re wont start on the electric start it just clicks any ideas ive changed the battery


Hi, David your bike is not a DT125RE all dirt bikes have kickers and no electric starters it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, 12.5 volts or better,to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid has dropped more than 1/2 volt.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
If a lower voltage is produced a proper battery load test should be performed with a load tester to validate battery integrity or battery replacement.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohm-meter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buy a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1 Answer

Ducati 1100 not starting


Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, 12.5 volts or better,to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid has dropped more than 1/2 volt.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
If a lower voltage is produced a proper battery load test should be performed with a load tester to validate battery integrity or battery replacement.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buy a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.ducatimonster.org/forums/tech/205386-2006-monster-620-wont-start-just-clicks-when-i-press-start.html
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Apr 13, 2012 | 2008 Ducati Multistrada 1100

1 Answer

Hi, Here is my problem with my BMW R1200C. I wanted to start the bike in a cold winter morning ( I had used the bike 2 days before without problems) but when I pushed the ignition button, the bike...


Hi T_mutis, it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, 12.5 volts or better,to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid has dropped more than 1/2 volt.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
If a lower voltage is produced a proper battery load test should be performed with a load tester to validate battery integrity or battery replacement.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohm-meter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buy a new one.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1 Answer

1985 Xj700 Maxim will not start, just a single click from the relay. I have replaced the starter relay, battery, diod, and elec relay...cleaned and tightened all of the electrical connections including...


HI, LETS REMEMBER THE STARTER RELAY IS ONLY A MAGNETIC SWITCH, WHICH WHEN THE STARTER SWITCH IS PRESSED IT OPENS THE CIRCUIT AND ALOWS 12V DC TO COMPLETE THE CIRCUIT TO THE STARTER MOTOR, IF YOU BRIDGE THE 2 THICK WIRES AT THE STARTER RELAY WITH THE IGNITION SWITCHED ON, 1 COMES FROM THE BATERY, AND THE OTHER GOES TO THE STARTER MOTOR, AND YOU HAVE SUFICIANT POWER IN YOUR BATTERY THE ENGINE WILL TURN OVER AND START, THUS ELIMINATING THE RELAY, IF THE STARTER DOES NOT TURN OVER THE ENGINE WHEN YOU DO THIS IT IS LIKELY THE STARTER MOTOR ITSELF IS NOT WORKING CORRECTLY, YOU COULD ALWAYS REMOVE THE WIRE FROM THE RELAY AND PUT IT MOMENTARILY DIRECT TO THE POS SIDE OF THE BATTERY, INSTEAD OF BRIDGING AT THE RELAY, REMEMBER THAT IF THE BIKE RUNS WHEN YOU JUMP START IT, THEN THE PROBLEM IS WITH THE STARTING SIDE , AND NOT THE IGNITION SIDE AS THE IGNITOR IS CONECTED TO THE IGNITION SIDE REPLACING THIS WOULD BE A WASTE OF FUNDS. THESE MACHINES ALSO HAD PROBLEMS EARLY ON WITH STARTER MOTORS & THE STARTER CLUTCH, WHICH IS A ONE WAY CLUTCH LOCATED IN THE LH ENGINE COVER ALONG WITH THE AC GENERATOR

Nov 29, 2010 | 1985 Yamaha XJ 700 X Maxim

2 Answers

I have a 75 sportster xlh 1000 kick start and electric the electric was working now its not but kicks over fine how do i fix this


There's a quick test to see if your starter is the problem or something else is causing it. First, it's very important that your bike is in neutral to do this test. If not, the bike is going to lurch forward.

Remove the rubber cover over the end of your starter solenoid. Use and old screwdriver or something and short between the small terminal and the large terminal that the cable from your battery connects to. The starter should kick in and turn the engine over. If it does, the starter is good and your problem is electrical.

If it's electical, there are two places it could be. Underneath the battery tray, there is a starter relay. Again, the bike must be in neutral. Turn the ignition switch on and while holding the starter relay, push the starter button. Do you feel a click? If so, this confirms the wiring between the relay and start button is alright.

Now, you'll need a test light or a volt meter for the next check. On the small terminal of the starter solenoid. connect the test light or the Positive lead of a volt meter, the negative lead of the meter to a good ground. Put the meter function switch in DC volts. 20 volt range. Turn on the ignition and press the starter button. The test light should light up or the meter should read battery voltage. If it does not, your starter relay is bad. If it does, your solenoid needs a repair kit installed in it.

A repair kit is available from aftermarket sources. Most any bike shop can order them for you and they aren't expensive. Disconnect the battery and all the wires on the end on the solenoid. Remove the nuts that were under the wires on all three terminals. Take the two small screws out of either side of the solenoid end cap and remove the cap. Replace the cap with the new parts and the new cap. Be careful when tightening the two screws and the nuts on the terminals as the bakelite end cap cracks very easily. Just snug on the nuts and screws. Reconnect the wires and your starter should work.

If not, let me know.

Good Luck
steve

Aug 18, 2010 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

Once in a while when starting the bike I get a lound grinding noise and obviously it wont start have to wait a while and then it may do it again or it may start. The noise is very lound


This problem is not as common on the Evolution and later engines as it was on the old Shovelhead engines. What causes the problem is the engine trying to start and "kicking back" against the starter. This will cause the starter drive to disengage with the starter ring gear on the clutch while it's trying to turn the engine. The noise is frightening and sounds like something tearing itself apart in the primary.

Like I said, the Evo and later engines don't do this as badly as the earlier Shovelhead engines did. Usually, the stock ignition system has to wait until a few revolutins of the engine occurs before the plugs start to spark. That's the purpose of the compression sensor on the Twin Cam engines.

Now, since you didn't tell me exactly what year model bike or ignition system your running, I'll generalize my answer. If you're still running the stock ignition, I'd check the timing on the engine and make sure it is not set too high. If you have an aftermarket ignition system, check the timing on it as well and if it is equpped with an "electric start / kick start" switch, make sure it's in the "electric start" position. This would probably only be revelent if you're riding a Shovelhead.

Like aaid earlier, this does happen from time to time but if it's happening too often, check the ignition system on your bike. Good Luck, Steve

Apr 25, 2010 | 2001 Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI...

1 Answer

Bike won't start but neutral light and lights on


you dont mention if it turns over or not..so i will assume it does not, here are some things to try...good luck

Engine run switch in OFF position.
2. Ignition switch not on.
3. Discharged battery, loose or corroded connections.
(Solenoid chatters.)
4. Starter control relay or solenoid not functioning.
5. Electric starter shaft pinion gear not engaging or overrunning
clutch slipping.
6. Clutch lever not pulled in.

Oct 19, 2009 | 2007 Buell Blast

1 Answer

Fault with electric start on my Suzuki GSF 250 Bandit


Check that the clutch is in, kick stand up, and neutral light ablaze. Then try your start button. When you had it running and hit the button, the starter engaged at a slower speed then the bike engine was turning, which led to the stall. The stall means your starter works. If the starter works when the engine is running then it is wiring. Check your kick stand wiring along with the clutch wires which plug in on the handlle bar or where the clutch cable enters the engine.

Oct 18, 2009 | 1995 Suzuki GSF 250 Bandit

1 Answer

2003 yzf r1 turns over slowly/starter relay makes clicking noise


Hi, Tom it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, 12.5 volts or better,to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid has dropped more than 1/2 volt.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
If a lower voltage is produced a proper battery load test should be performed with a load tester to validate battery integrity or battery replacement.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buy a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Bike has trouble starting Won turn over clicks sometimes Bad battery...
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/102-00-01-r1-mechanical-help/39482-bike-wont-start-clicking-sound-under-seat.html
https://r1videos.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/2002-2003-yamaha-r1-service-manual.pdf
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Apr 20, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZF-R1

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