Question about Suzuki RM 125 Motorcycles

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Hi there i after a diagram of the cogs inside a rm 125 1999 gear bow as i recentle replaced 2 just wanten make sure i put it together right. Where can i get a diagram of these cogs. THANKS

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Cannot get rear derailer to work properly 24 inch girls evolution


Don't start messing with the derailleur yet! Make sure your shifting trouble isn't due to something else, such as a warped, dirty, or stretched chain, gummed-up pulleys, crud in the cable housing, trapped cable, or a bent derailleur hanger
Clean the chain and the rear derailleur pulleys. Pull the chain away from each pulley, and turn the pulley to make sure it can move freely. A pulley that offers resistance to turning must be replaced.
Now check the cable to be sure it slides freely. Mud and grit within the cable housing, or on a cable-guide, can keep the derailleur from moving a "full gear" during downshifts. If the cable doesn't slide freely in the housing, you may be able to clean or lube it to restore smooth shifting.
Let the high-gear limit screw. In your highest gear on the shifter, and with the chain on the smallest cog, position the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the small cog. Run the chain a bit with the front derailleur in the large ring, adjusting the limit screw until the pulley and the cog seem to match perfectly.

Setting the high-gear (small cog) limiting screw.



Once you're sure the derailleur matches the cog, move it just a whisker (1/8 to 1/4 turn) towards the other cogs. (You may need to readjust a bit if you get chain-skip.)

Closeup of setting the limiting screw.



Now adjust the low-gear limit screw. Shift into the lowest gear (largest cog). If it won't go, loosen the limit screw. With the chain on the largest cog (and the front derailleur in the small chainring), adjust the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the large cog.Once it's perfect, turn the limit screw so it moves the derailleur a tiny amount towards the other cogs (1/8 to 1/4 turn usually works).

Setting the low-gear (largest cog) limiting screw.



Now shift to the highest gear (smallest cog). Push the shift lever to downshift one gear (go from the smallest cog to the next-smallest). If it doesn't shift, tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster, 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Backshift and try again. Continue tightening until it shifts. If it overshifts, going from the smallest cog to the third-smallest, loosen the cable by turning 1/2 turn clockwise. Backshift and repeat until it shifts exactly from the small to the next-smallest cog.

Fine adjustment of tension in the derailleur cable.





Now go to the second-smallest ring. Tighten or loosen the cable slightly, until the outer side plates of the chain are just clearing the third-smallest cog. Shift up and down, fine-tuning until you're satisfied.

Checking the position of the chain on the cogs.





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1 Answer

My chain occasionally comes loose when I hit a bump. How can I make adjustments to prevent the chain from coming loose. I have a Shimano tourr.ey gear mechanism. If I could obtain the instruction manual...


For the wide range of gearing on a MTB, the rear derailleur has to be able to adjust a large amount. If you shift into the smallest front chainwheel and the smallest cog on the rear (position 1), you'll probably see the chain is very loose and the rear derailleur is pointed back horizontally. Conversely, if in the largest front chainwheel and the largest rear cog, the derailleur will be pointed forward (position 2)
Couple things to do: 1) Avoid the gearing combination of the smallest cogs. Instead, use the middle chain ring and a larger cog (you'll have the same net gear ratio). 2) You can remove a link from the chain. A chain tool is about $10.00. You push the pin out through all but the last plate on two links, bend the chain slightly to pop those 2 links out (2 links = a wide link + a narrow link), then put the chain back together. This is only advisable if in position 2 there is some additional travel for the derailleur and in position 1, the derailleur has no additional travel. 3) Make sure your chainrings aren't bent, straighten (use a open-end wrench and gently pull the chain ring back to flat). This isn't likely b/c you don't indicate the chain falls off while shifting. 4). If the chain falls of the inside, screw in about 1/4 turn the inner limit screw on the front deraillleur. If the chain falls off the outside, screw in about 1/4 to 1/2 turn the outer limit screw on the front derailleur.

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My 2003 rm 125 transmission slips out of gear.


im having the same problem with my 2003 rm 125, tombones49 is wright about the shift forks.

May 27, 2010 | 2003 Suzuki RM 125

1 Answer

How do i remove the water pump on a 1999 suzuki rm 250


hi,drop the oil, remove the right hand casing. undo the water pump casing. remove the impeller (10mm bolt) dont lose the copper/ally washer. draw the drive shaft from the inside of the casing. remove the bearing. remove the seals, keep note which way round the seals are. they should be opposite. one keeps oil in and the other keeps the water out of the oil. if there are any score marks on the drive shaft,replace it , as it will only leak again. to put it back together, just reverse process. hope this helps. kev.

Mar 08, 2010 | 2005 Suzuki RM 250

1 Answer

2002 suzuki rm 125 shift drum placement, shifting problems,


go to your local shop and ask them to photocopy you pages out of manuel for setting of shift drum

Jul 09, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki RM 125

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Bissell proheat turbo 2x upright cleaner -how do I reassmeble?



Yeah, it’s annoying that the manual doesn’t give more detailed instructions and drawings to help with this, because you do have to take the roller assembly apart sometimes to clean built-up carpet lint off the unit properly. If you don’t do this, I’d expect you’d have more problems.

I have a different model number Bissell Proheat than yours. Yours may have different parts or go together differently than mine, but I'll tell you how I do it on mine and you can try my way out and see if it helps you.

(In all cases where I use left vs. right or front vs. back, as when these terms are used with a car, I am facing the front of the Bissell. I am NOT behind the Bissell, where I would stand when cleaning carpet with it.)


Here's how I put it together. This takes much longer to describe than to do, once you figure out where everything goes and you get the hang of doing it!

Attach the left arm with the two silver rods (ONLY attach the left arm here-- leave the corresponding right arm, which looks like the left arm except it has no silver rods, off the bottom unit of the Bissell, for now) to the left side of the Bissell, with a silver screw with a built-in washer. The screw hole is on the back end of the arm and the arm dips down towards the front of the Bissell and holds the two brushes in position so that they can turn without striking the top of the underside of the Bissell or dragging on the floor.

Put a small silver washer on each long, silver metal post, where the roller brushes will go, and slide it all the way to the left.

Put the larger rubber belt around both metal posts, about halfway to two-thirds of the way down the metal posts.

Slide the brushes halfway down the metal posts and attach the larger rubber belt to the cog wheel on the left side of each roller brush. Then slide both roller brushes with the large rubber belt attached all the way to the left so that the cog wheels are against the inside of the left arm. As you move the roller brushes almost all the way to the left, you may be blocked from reaching the end until you carefully work the rubber belt around a plastic flange on the inside of the left arm, but do this and be sure the roller brushes are up against the inside of the left arm. Make sure the rubber belt is still on each of the cog wheels when the roller brushes are pushed all the way left. If you turn one roller brush, the other should turn, too, because of the belt attached to both cog wheels.

Put the small belt around the small cog wheel on the bottom unit of the Bissell behind the right end of the back roller brush, and also around the cog wheel on the right end of the back roller brush. (The right cog wheel on the front roller brush is the only one of five cog wheels without a belt, when everything is assembled correctly.)

Put a small silver washer on the right end of the silver rod passing through the back roller brush.

NOW attach the right arm, using a silver screw with a washer, to the middle screw hole on the right side of the bottom unit of the Bissell. The right arm should mirror the left arm, so that the two arms hold both roller brushes in position on the right side and straight across the bottom unit of the Bissell. It is normal for the roller brushes and arms to be able to flex up and down a bit, when everything is put together correctly. The built-in washers on the silver screws which attach the arms keep the arms and roller brushes in the generally correct position but allow them to flex.

Now using your fingers you should be able to slowly spin the roller brushes without the brushes contacting the top of the bottom unit of the Bissell and without dragging too low against the floor. Check one more time and be sure the belts are positioned correctly around four of the five cog wheels.

If everything seems right, attach the two side covers. These are not interchangeable; the left cover only fits on the left. The short black screw goes in the back screw hole, and the long black screw goes in front.

Then attach the front cover. It's important to be careful that the hooks on the front cover are inside the side cover holes designed to hold the hooks before trying to tighten the last screw through the tab on top of the front cover. If you aren't careful about this, it's easy for the front cover to be out of position or to break its tab.

Try powering up the Bissell and see if the rollers spin correctly. Remember that the handle must not be locked upright and the trigger must be depressed with the Bissell turned on before the roller brushes will spin. (Sometimes people complain that nothing happens with the unit turned on and the trigger depressed when the only problem is that the handle is in the locked upright position.)

Good luck!

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just place both feet on the agitator as it sits on the floor and lift up on the top half. there are plastic tabs on the bottom half that hold the two pieces together. you will need to remove the 2 tabs before putting the 2 pieces together. the bolt that you screw the agitator down with will hold the 2 pieces together. Joe

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Belts


Timing belt has marks on it that refer to the cam marks and the crank gear. Looking at the engine from the front, the timing belt should drape over the two cam gears, with 40 cogs between them on the belt. The timing belt should have 42 or 43? cogs between the driver cam mark and the mark on the crank gear. The way i've installed mine is to put the belt on the driver side cam and crank, and then put it on the passenger side cam. You'll need to lock the tensioner clockwise about 70-80 degrees to get enough clearance to install the belt.

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