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I'm sorry but I don't have the specs on the quantity and type of fork oil for your year and model bike. I work on the older bikes that the dealers will no longer service. But, I can describe the difference between the "wet" and "dry" conditions of the fork assembly. If you take the front forks apart, clean them out, and put them back together with no oil in them, they are considered "dry". For a simple drain and refill type oil change on them where you don't get all the oil out of them, they are considered "wet". I hope this helps, You can call you local dealer's service department and they should tell you the quantity and viscosity of the oil that goes in the front forks on your machine. They'll tell you something like 6 ounces of "Type E" oil, for example. Harley-Davidson uses these types of specs to describe their oils. If you go to a website for fork oil, like PJ1, they may give a cross reference or equivalency chart for converting H-D "Type E" to their oil. I think that would be their 30 weight oil. If the front end seems too "stiff" with 30 weight, you can drop down to 20 weight. I think Honda makes a 25 weight but not sure. Your Harley won't mind the Honda oil. BG.
Unless you've had your front fork assembly serviced recently, I'd guess you've got blown oil seals in the top of the sliders on your forks. If someone serviced your forks lately, they may have put in too much oil and blown the seals. You'll have to drain the forks, disassemble the fork tube from the lower slider and replace the seal in each leaking tube. Refill the fork tube with the designated about of oil for a "dry" refill. Use this figure because the fork tube was disassembled. When you simply drain the forks without a disassembly, you cannot get all the oil out and the refill quantity is less.
Well, yes. The fork seals are located at the top of the fork slider un the "slide tube cap". This makes me wonder exactly what did you replace when you say that you just replaced the "fork seals". To get to these oil seals, you have to disassemble the forks tubes. Remove the front wheel and fenders. Down where you took the axle out, look up into the end of the slider and you'll see a socket head bolt, 6mm. Loosen this bolt before you take the tube out of the triple tree. Remove and repair one tube at the time. When you get the slider off the top tube, you will see a retainer ring in the top of the slider. The seal is under this ring. The new oil seals must be replace squarely in the tube. When you reassemble the tube and put it back in the triple tree, there is a specific amount of fork oil that must be added to each tube to properly refill it. You must use the "dry" quantity when refilling the fork tube because you disassembled and completely drained the tube. I'm sorry but I don't have this quantity of fork oil for this late of a model bike. I work on the earlier model bikes only.
First off, make sure you or whoever is doing the work is installing the correct seal in the proper direction. A seal put in backwards will leak like crazy. Also, make sure you're putting the correct amount of fork oil in once you get finished. There are usually two different quantities of oil listed. One is a "WET" quantity that you add when you simply drain the tubes and refill them. The other is a "DRY" quantity that you put in whenever you disassemble the tubes. I usually use 30 wt. fork oil. You shouldn't be having a problem unless you have something really bad wrong. The fork tube must be sized to fit the bushings inside the lower fork tube (slider) so the seals should work.
The best way,is to drain a fork leg into a container, and measure the amount. however if you cant do that, start of with about 100ml in each leg, test them out, if to soft, you can always add a little more oil. from memory, a 250ml bottle of fork oil was enough to do both legs on most bikes.
I have a 1982 CB750C the manual says the quantity is the same for all bike before 1982 it says 6 ounces for the air assist fork models. this is from a clymer manual i recently bought. Highly recommend getting one