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Re: checking and filling fluids
Clutch checked by removing derby cover. Use harely chaincase lub. Tranny is on right below seat with a 3/8 inch hex fitting. Check with bike upright. U should drain it and use Redline shockproof gear oil
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if there is a faulty seal on the crankshaft then the gear oil can get to the crankcase
being a separate case with separate oil, check that the breather for the transmission is not blocked and the pressure build up is not forcing the oil past the seal into the crankcase
Hi Anonymous, if it's only half full nothing. If it's empty but still wet probably some premature wear. I once did a service on a bike and got distracted, forgot to refill transmission, hey even the best of us make mistakes. The bike came back after several hundred miles for some chrome work which included the transmission top and side covers. To my horror the gears were black and the smell of burnt oil was obvious. I found no metal ants in the bottom of case, so I installed the new covers, filled the trans with parts cleaner and ran it through the gears for a couple of minutes. Drained the parts cleaner and repeated the process a few times untill the cleaner came out actually clean. Filled transmission with fresh clean trans oil and let it go. The next time he came in for service, which did not include a trans oil change, I changed it anyways just for GP and it looked good. The customer never came back with transmission problems. Harley Davidson engineers into it's engine and transmission cases small oil traps to keep some oil left in case of pump failure or distracted technicians. I once drove my own personal bike 28 miles with a sheared pump key and no oil pressure by running it up to 50 MPH pulling in the clutch and shutting the engine off and coasting. Harleys can take a ton of abuse if it's controlled. Good luck
The V-star 1100, much like most Japanese motorcycles, uses engine oil to lubricate the transmission. (The engine and transmission share the same case and lubricant.) Therefore, checking the engine oil and trans oil are one and the same. There is a window that you look in when the bike is standing up straight. The final drive (drive shaft at the rear wheel) takes Hypoid gear oil, and should be filled to the bottom of the threads on the fill plug.
The thick oil has probably not harmed anything. It will make it harder to shift because it gets into the clutch pack and acts like a hydraulic fluid in a torque converter. I'm betting that now that you've changed the oil to Syn3 that it'll shift better. Just make sure you don't overfill the primary. With the bike standing straight up, remove the derby cover. The oil level should be no higher than the lowest point on the clutch spring. If you look at the clutch assembly, you'll see that there is an aluminum ring around the outside of the clutch with a darker colored disc in the center. The dark disc is the clutch spring. Fill the primary just up to the lowest point on the dark disc just over the bright ring.
If this does not improve the shifting into second gear, have the dealership adjust the shifter pawl adjustment. It takes some special tools to get to the adjustment.
Yes, a clunking sound is normal if it does it occasionally, not all the time. I'd check my clutch adjustment. If the clutch is dragging a bit, this makes the clunking happen more often.
Quick check of the clutch adjustment. Put the bike in low gear and pull in the clutch. Now hit the starter button. If the bike surges forward before it starts up, you need to adjust the clutch.
Also, make sure that you aren't running too much oil in your primary. Too much oil will make the clutch do the same thing as it would if it were dragging. Only enough oil to reach the bottom of the pressure spring in the clutch.
Likely the clutch master cylinder on the handlebar needs rebuilding--a check valve or piston cup is bypassing fluid when pressure tries to build up. If it was the slave cylinder, it would probably be leaking fluid. Same with the coupling hose.
Ah yes! The missing clue! You put more stuff in the gearbox. But what exactly did you put in it? Motorcycle engines do not do well using synthetic oil, or oils with "special" additives or "friction reducers". Drain whatever is in the gearbox and refill with 10w40 motor oil. Shell, Mobil, Quaker State. Any major brand will do. It may require a one hour ride and a second oil change to rid the gearbox of the synthetic. Clutch plates that swell are usually toast. Plates that just slip usually recover after awhile. Install a new oil filter. Look it up in the manual. See below.
Hi, You don't say how much of a leak or if it is wet or blackened oil or if it is oil. Could it be brake fluid ? Clutch? I think before I pulled the trans cover I would remove alot of the fairing pieces and check for loose bolts, clamps, clips, check hoses, seals and overflows. Check levels to see what is low or maybe too full. Don't look for problems that might not be there! Find your source first! Good Luck!