Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Last season the tach started to jump back and forth from 0 to red line while cruising; the red trouble came on and off. No change in performance. HD dealer had it over a month and finally changed the ECM and stripped out my Power Commander claiming it may have friend the ECM. Big $$$. The problem stopped for a few miles then gradually came back! Only 26K on the clock! Problem is intermittent.
and may or may not occur during up or down shifts!!!!
Hi Jack, take it back to the dealer and demand satisfaction politely and you want it fixed for free since you already paid big bucks for the practice repair. If they give you any static ask the store manager for the Motor Company's customer service phone number so you can ask them why your dealer won;t waranty their work in a timely manner. Good luck and have nice day.
Posted on Jun 21, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if it is open loop ( O2 sensors) check the sensor condotion, connections etc.
Reload the files onto the Power Commander, insure they are the exact files for your ride, the wrong files can affect operation and gum up the O2 sensors.
Posted on Apr 13, 2009
SOURCE: lights bulbs in tach and speedo
The tach and speedo are their own separate unit. There is no changeable light bulb. You may want to check your light and instrument fuses. If those are working, I would remove the outer fairing and check the connections to your tach and speedo.
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
SOURCE: High Idle On Start-up.
Most fuel injected motorcycles do start up in a "fast idle" mode. Although I don't know much about fuel injection on Harleys (H-D will not tell you much about it unles you are one of their technicians), I don't think the system is equipped with an engine temp sensor. Since the crank case sensor get it's pulses from pockets cut into the outer edge of the left side flywheel half, the sensor will have oil on it.
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
Are you sure your gauge is not lying to you? Ride the bike until you see that your charging voltage has dropped. Then check the voltage directly across the battery with a meter. If it is indeed below the 14 volt mark, you are either drawing too much current or your alternator is not putting out enough.
To check the alternator, unplug the regulator where it plugs into the engine case. Down inside the plug in the case, you'll see either two sockets or two pins. Using a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) put one lead to pin or socket and the other lead to the other pin or socket. Put the meter in the 50 volt AC range. The voltage coming out of the alternator is AC voltage, not DC. It is converted to DC by the regulator. Start the engine an bring the engine up to a high idle. You should read 32-40 volts AC. If so, you stator is good and working as it should.
Now, you're left with either something drawing too much current or a bad regulator. The book tells you how to check the regulator but you must use a specific type of meter or you'll get erronous readings. If you have added a lot of extra lights to the bike, this could be overworking the alternator. Check the ground on the regulator to the frame. It must be grounded well.
Posted on Apr 06, 2010
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