Question about 2005 Triumph Daytona 650

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I changed my front brake pads and had to open the caliper to close the piston. I know that i have to bleed the brakes , due to the air in the lines. but now i see fluid seeping from the caliper. Did i do something wrong, if so what i do to correct this problem. 2005 triumph daytona 650

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  • vazqueznj Mar 02, 2009

    The fluid is coming from the bottom of the caliper when i squeeze the brake lever. I opem the caliper by 4 screws that split the caliper in half.

  • Dick
    Dick May 11, 2010

    Where is the fluid coming from and how did you open the caliper?


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Did you split the caliper in half? If it is a split caliper there are o rings that seal the lines one side to the other... thus you misplaced the o rings and they are not sealing. I do use a c clamp to compress the pistons with the brake reservoir cap removed to let excess fluid to flow back into the champer, if full remove some with a syringe. (without the needle I get em from a buddy..)

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

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Hello Dale, this is an easy job on your bike. Use a flat head screw driver and remove the brake pad will pop off.
Remove the hairpin type clips off of the ends of the brake pad pins.... Use pliers & pull the brake pad pins out from the front of the rear brake caliper....Clean the rear brake caliper's piston with brake cleaner. Use a rag and wipe it clean...Reinsert the old brake pads into the caliper. Place a pry bar between the brake pads, then push the inner piston into the caliper body, this will allow room to install new pads.... Remove the old brake pads...Coat the brake pad pins and the new brake pads metal back plates with high-temperature grease.

Slip the new brake pads into the rear brake caliper, then push the brake pad pins halfway into the caliper. Slip the spring clips into place between the brake pads and the brake pad pins. Push the brake pad pins completely through the rear brake caliper. Push the hairpin clips back into the brake pad pin tips. Snap the brake pad cover onto the top of the rear brake caliper....

Pump the rear brake pedal until the pedal feels firm, indicating that the brake pads have closed around the brake rotor...No bleeding will be needed because the system was never opened - That's all there is to it...i hope this information is helpful & good luck with your bike.


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Replaced front brake pads on my 2007 vtx1300r. now front lever is spongy. bled brakes quite a few times. still spongy. what went wrong. replaced the rear but had no issues.

The brakes must be trimmed to set closer as possible without the pads rubbing the caliper so that there is least movement of the piston when the hydraulics works.
So even if the system is bled and there is no air lock on the system , it is important to set the levers closer to the pads. So use the adjustment of the assembly so as to keep it closer to the pad.
Hence when the brakes are applied there will be immediate tightness to the lever as the pads close contact with the pads and hold on.
So I suggest that since you have overhauled the brakes and changed the pads this must be reset.

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In my 05 kx 250 my brake pads were really worn out, so i changed them, and i put everything back together and now theres no pressure in my brakes to move the piston in the caliper. What do i do? add more...

Maybe air in the line..

Bleed the line..
Open the master,, then open the slave & let it drain.. At the same time keep adding fliud to the master as needed - dont let it drain to low - keep it topped off..

After you think the entire line has been drained,, close the slave & be sure master is at the right level & close..

That will release any air - if that was the issue..

Hope this helps !!
Please rate me good ;o)

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1 Answer

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Try gravity bleeding. Open bleed nipple and wait for steady dripping. After closing nipple, the lever doesn't have pressure, the cylinder at the lever is defective. It's a go- no go thing. Either it works or it doesn't. good luck

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1 Answer

Soft front brakes after bleeding the brake lines,

One easy thing to try is clamp the front brake lever overnight. If there are any air bubbles in the system they should be compressed and in theory work their way to the highest point in the system - the master cylinder. Doesn't always work but the price is right.
My experience has been air enters the calipers more than it does the master cylinder due to miscommunication between the person squeezing the lever and the person opening the bleed screw. They do have bleed kits these days that make it a little easier.

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hey there,, just gonna guess that u are tryin to bleed the caliper with it on the wheel already,,if u are m8 then itl take ages to pressure up,, im takin it that the caliper has never been split appart b4,, so any way,,take the caliper off the wheel ,but still leave it connected to the brake line,,take pads out to, and just place a pad in between the to pistons,,fill up the resevoir with fluid,, leave the cap off and just put the rubber cap in ,,start pumpin the foot brake,u should see the pistons moving,,keep pumpin till the pistons are a fair way in,, then if u have some put some copper grease on the pistons, then prize them back in,,then replace the pads then pump the foot brake again,just to check,its all moving,, put caliper bk on the wheel ,then bleed as normal,, gettin all air bubbles out,, ,hope that all makes sense m8,, any probs ,,shout and stage 2 story il tell yuh,, cheers now

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