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Charles, you may have to have vehicle scanned for fault/diagnostic codes. Was car doing it before tune up etc., if not were correct parts installed, check to see that all vacuum lines are connected and not leaking and the same with wire/plugs, check for loose/damaged wires and plugs. If all looks OK to you, have a good tech. diagnose and estimate repair.
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What tests have you run. Has the maintenance been good and on time? Can you run a compression test, fuel pressure test, and an oil pressure test. The injection pump needs good clean oil to work correctly. The filters need to be clean, low fuel pressure can affect, even damage fuel injectors. I wish that I could be more help but I need more info to be more useful. Good luck.
take the vehicle to your local fault code reader and plug the vehicle in to diagnostic equipment and go into the gear box control unit just like the E.C.U but for the gear box this should tell you any faults if this does not come up with any thing then try draining the oil and refilling with fresh I have known auto boxes play up just from old box oil if you are saying you hav a light on the dash then to save your self time messing with gear box oil (witch has a really nasty smell) get it plugged in first to eliminate electrical faults first hope this help good luck
and automatic transmission in this vehicles drive train
are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM
(Power Train Control Module). Whenever a problem like this or other
drive-ability related problems occurs the computer stores a record of
the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the
fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for
instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these
fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special
tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the
appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s)
DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED
THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT
MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM
Use 10/40 synthetic or semi-synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil. Don't be tempted to use slightly cheaper car oils as these are designed for use with dry clutches and contain 'friction modifiers' which make the oil slippier to help the car engines run more economically. These will make the clutch slip on powerful bikes which have a 'wet' clutch running in a bath of engine oil. You can get away with car oils in less powerful bikes.
Is this the 3.0 diesel ? Most likely the rail oil pressure sensor is faulty but wont show as a trouble code cos it reads pressures from 0 - 27Mpa and can show pressure even when its not there ,hard to spot but pull the white wire from the car side of the injector loom by the dipstick and see if that sorts it out- or the rail oil pressure control valve - this should show as about 20% on tech 2 at idle if it goes below 15% the engine stops again no code will set .
Probable Spark plugs have blown. I would do a good tune up and replace your fuel filter, plugs and wires, oil and oil filter, air filter. Your system builds enough fuel pressure when it's cold becuase there is technically less are in your combustion chamber when it's cold so it can build more fuel pressure to start. When it's warm there's less room to build pressure to start your motor. So do a good tune up for now and see if that works. Hope you the best!