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well, since you have already checked many options, one other thing that could cause a problem like that is the idle control valve,
pvc valve, throttle control sensor, and even the EGR valve, but a diagnostics check-up should tell you more efficiently what the problem is.
sounds like a stuck open EGR valve to me , take it off of a cool engine and spray some carb cleaner around the seat see if any leaks through to the other side. If it does The valve is bad. Also check out your throttle body for carbon and gumming. W/ engine off spray an appropriate carburator cleaner into the opening and clean throttle plate and bore with a rag until shiney. put all the air cleaner hoses back together and hold throttle to floor momentarily until engine starts, then rev up half way and release throttle twice quickly, now allow engine to idle idle should be stable and smooth. If not then check for other sources of vaccume leaks.
is the check engine light on is so have code read 1st-second try cleaning the throttle body where air goes into the engine where the rubber hose attaches clean with a throttle cleaner wipe cleaner out i say this due to the idle air control motor may be dirty,and last you may have a faulty egr valve
I hope you didn't change all those parts in the attempt to solve the idle problem. First, make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. Using a can of carb & choke cleaner, lightly spray around vacuum lines, connectors, and the intake manifold. Use safety glasses and extreme care to NOT spray the exhaust manifold, as the cleaner is very combustible. If the engine speed increases consistently in a specific area, you have a vacuum leak that needs repaired. You can also listen for a hissing sound and cover or move vacuum hoses around to see if the noise changes or disappears. Otherwise, your problem is probably what is called the idle air control motor. It is a valve on the throttle body which allows air to bypass the throttle plate to regulate engine idle speed. More often than not, it will cause your problem and never activate the check engine light or show a trouble code. The part will cost approx $50-$75.
Check the Mass Air Flow Sensor, you can get a can of cleaner specific for cleaning them for a couple bucks at the parts store. I'd just get 1 and clean the sensor see if that works. The MAF sensor is either in the throttle body itself (bolted on from the outside or in the air line between the filter and throttle body. That could be the whole problem right there. Good luck.
sound like idle speed low idle you need to remove throttle body clean entire throttle body spray cleaner down throttle body bore if cleaning throttle body dont help the dealership has to check it out.a faulty egr valve could be stuck partially open that will cause rough idle and stalling. replace air filter clean fuel injectors.your fuel system could be too lean caused by clogged fuel injectors or weak fuel pump check fuel pressure and also check all intake vacuum hoses make sure pcv valve working should have suction and make sure its in place and the pcv valve hose not cracked open or damaged.
High idle Changed IAC still the same, shown on scanner IAC 50-60 %, if it set to 40% the Idle is ok. What cause the PCM to set IAC too high? Is any one know?
2 airflow sensor out of operating range 3 coolant temp sensor out of operating range 4 oxy sensor indicates full rich 5 throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor... (low throttle pot signal with high airflow sensor signal) 6 throttle pot/airflow sensor...... (high throttle pot signal with low airflow sensor signal) 7 throttle pot...idle fuel adjustment failure(idle speed??) 8 intake air temp sensor...open or shorted circuit to sensor 11 Throttle pot at idle: Throttle pot idle trim out of normal range 12 Airflow meter: MAF signal out of range 14 Coolant thermistor: Resistance out of range or static during engine warm up 16 Air thermistor: Resistance out of range 17 Throttle pot: Out of range 18 Throttle pot/Airflow: Low throttle pot signal at high airflow 19 Throttle pot/Airflow: High throttle pot signal at low airflow 22 Fuel pump drive: ECU output to fuel pump relay 23 Fuel supply: Engine running too rich 24 Ignition Drive: ECU output to ignition Amp 26 Air leak: Engine running too lean 29 ECU self check 33 Injector Drive: ECU output to injectors 34 Injector: Looks for Injector dribble 37 EGR Drive: ECU output to EGR switching valve 39 EGR check sensor: EGR not working (normally pipe blocked) 44 Lambda (O2) sensor: Poor mixture control rich or weak (or misfire) 46 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil AB 47 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil CD 48 Idle Speed Control Valve: Stepper motor grossly out of position 66 Air pump: ECU output to air pump relay 68 Road speed sensor: Seen speed < 5km/h at high engine airflow 69 Drive/Neutral switch: Seen cranking in "D" or high airflow in "N" 89 Purge Valve drive: ECU output to purge valve this is all I could find
is the check engine light on ? if it idling high chances are you have a vacuum leak take a can of carb cleaner and spray the egr valve and if the engine rpm changes replace egr valve the throttle body may also be plugged pull the vacuum line off the map sensor start vehicle and see if you have vacuum if not remove throttl body and clean vacuum passage hope this helps
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