Question about 2000 Honda VT 1100 C3 Shadow Aero

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I've taken off the front brake hose & drained my front brake caliper. After re-assembly I can't get any pressure built up in the line. When I squeeze the brake lever it's totally free/loose/floppy. Can u tell me what I'm doing wrong?

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  • 1 Answer need to bleed the brakes.......connect a 2 foot rubber hose to the bleed fitting...put a wrench on the bleed fitting....slowly pump the hand brake lever and before it comes to full travel quickly open and close the bleed fitting...repeat the proces about 30 times...make sure the lever is in motion while you open and close the bleed fiting...check the resivor and add brake fluid...repeat the process until all the air is out.....important point is to insure the hand brake lever is in motion when you open and close the air fitting....

Posted on May 11, 2009

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Hi, The lines have to be bled to get the air out. There is a small fitting on the calipers to do this. The best procedure is to use a piece of tubing and a glass jar. Fill the fluid reservoir up to the top. Put some brake fluid in the jar, barely open the fitting, squeeze the brake lever and watch for bubbles, pump the lever until there are no more bubbles and it tightens up. Be careful not to run the reservoir too low and get air back in the line. This should Fixsya!

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

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I have a 89 gsx600f Suzuki the front brakes lock up ,any suggestions

Hi Nichole:
Not good! Locking front brake leads to crashes. MUST FIX!
I would start with a master cylinder check.
- Remove brake line at slave cylinder. Hold end over container, and squeeze brake lever. Fluid should come out, and brake lever should return when released. Do this several times to flush the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder, and top up and repeat.

If the master cylinder appears to be working correctly I would then proceed to the slave cylinders. If they are gummed up, have corrosion, or are impeded by dust, they may not be retracting properly.
Service should include:
- Remove front calipers, dismantle, clean
- Remove slave cylinders, dismantle, clean, Inspect for pitting or corrosioin, re-seal
- Obviously, this requires draining the entire system so once re-assembled, bleed, top up fluid level, and test.
You may want to give your local mechanic or dealer a call to get a price estimate for a brake service. Then decide if you want to attack it yourself.
Hope this helps.

Oct 20, 2015 | Suzuki Motorcycles

2 Answers

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Some how your reinterducing air into the system but not sure where.

Oct 22, 2012 | 2001 Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider

1 Answer

My front Master Cylinder doesn't work. I've already tried bleeding the brakes and there's no pressure even drawing the fluid through the line. Any ideas on how to fix this?

I'm going thru the same thing...I blew air in the line with pressure and the caliper heart surgery master cylinder and caliper and no signs of wear and me its like if the master cylinder doesn't have enough pressure to push the brake conclusion ..faulty master cylinder...

Apr 04, 2012 | 2000 Yamaha V Star Classic

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2008 fxstc harley brake light stays on. I changed the front brake light switch but still stays on. Any help?

Check the rear brake light pressure switch. Follow the metal tube that comes out of the rear brake master cylinder going back to the rear brake. You will find a pressure switch in the line. Disconnect the wires from it and check it with an ohm meter. You may have to open the brake bleeder valve on the rear caliper to bleed any residual pressure off the rear brake system. If the light goes out then, you may have a problem with the rear brake master cylinder or the brake hose not allowing all the pressure to bleed off the brake when released. I've seen a bad brake hose do this as well. This is usually the result of damage done while servicing the rear brake. The inside part of the flexible brake hose comes loose from the outer protective jacket. The inner part becomes restricted in such a manner that the high pressure fluid is forced past the restriction when the brake is applied but it will not allow the low pressure fluid to flow back due to the restriction. The result is a low pressure remains on the rear brake making the brake pads run hot and the rear brake light to stay on.

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Aug 27, 2011 | Harley Davidson Boulevard C109RT...

1 Answer

When i pull in front brake handel the brake calipers push out but when i release brakes the brake handel still has presure on it it seems that the fuiled is not returning to master cylinder

Your brake hoses are collapsing internally and holding pressure. I've seen this multiple times, especially on Yamahas. Replace the brake hoses, flush the system and refill w/DOT 4 fluid, bleed the air and you'll be good to go. Good luck!

Jun 11, 2011 | 1982 Yamaha XJ 650

1 Answer

I just had new tires installed on my 99 sportster 883. Went riding for 2 and half hours , came home was going to leave again and the rear brakes were locked up i took the caliper apart and knocked off...

Normally, just having a tire put on should not effect your brakes in any manner. However, I do not know what the people that changed the tire did. Usually when a brake caliper locks up, it's caused by air in the system. They may have taken the brake line loose from the caliper but it was not necessary and there's no way to prove it. Also, there is a small hole in the bottom of the master cylinder that allows the pressure to bleed off the caliper. If this hole is blocked, it will not allow all the pressure to bleed off properly. Another thing that could cause it is the rear rubber brake hose. If the people that changed the rear tire allowed the this rubber line to bend too sharply, it could have damaged the inner lining of the brake line. This will allow the brakes to be applied due to the high pressure but restrict the bleeding off of the pressure. I've seen this many times and this is my best guess as to the problem, damaged rubber brake line.

Good Luck

May 30, 2011 | 2003 Harley Davidson XLH 883 Sportster

1 Answer

How to change a front brake hose on my 2000 883 xl

Simply take the old hose off and replace it with the new hose. Fill the master cylinder with the proper fluid and then open the bleeder valve down on the caliper. Allow the fluid to run down until there are no more air bubbles coming out. Close the bleeder valves on the caliper. Refill the master cylinder. Squeeze the brake handle and hold it, open the bleeder valve and allow the pressure to bleed off and air to come out, close the bleeder valve, release the brake lever. Do this several times or until you get no more air out of the brake. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry at time during this operation after you get the new hose on the bike.


Mar 27, 2011 | Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883...

1 Answer

Hi there, I have a 2001 EC200 GG and I'm finding the front brake weak and spongey. Is it generally the stock brake line or the pads that are the main problem, or something else? Cheers,

Hi, spongy brakes is usually from air in the system, only in really old bikes and poor quality brake lines will cause spongy breaks where the brake lines expand instead of full pressure being applied to the brake pads, very rarely will the brake pads cause spongy brakes (unless over heated), once you get rid of the sponginess you will get strong braking. Bleed your front brake system taking care not to let the master cylinder run out of fluid, this is the easiest and cheapest start, once all the air is out then you can work your way through, another good way of testing your braking system, but you need to be very careful doing this and make sure your brake lines are not hard or brittle, you can squeeze the brake line at certain spots (using a pair of brake line pliers), eg. squeeze after the master cylinder. if brakes spongy than your master cylinder needs attention, if brakes hard than your problem is further down the line, calipers etc. Hope this helps.

Mar 04, 2011 | 2008 Gas Gas EC 200

1 Answer

98 harley davidson rear brake assembly for a fat boy

The rear brake system consist of a rear brake master cylinder, a metal line that has a tee in it for the rear brake switch, a rubber brake hose and a rear caliper.

I'm not sure what you are wanting to know. The rear brake caliper is held into the rear caliper bracket by two bolts. Remove the bolts and the rear caliper will lift off of the caliper bracket. With the brake caliper off the bracket, notice the position of the pads and especially the stainless steel anti-rattle clips. When you replace the pads and clips, make sure you get them in correctly.

Now, you'll have to compress the piston back into the caliper. To do this use either a large pair of slip joint pliers or a large C-clamp. Use a rag or something to protect the paint on your caliper. Carefully slid the caliper back down over the pads while not disturbing them. Install the two bolts and torque them to 25 foot pounds.

You brake systems, both the front and the rear, take type DOT 5 brake fluid as best as I can remember. Harley has changed the type of brake fluid but I cannot keep up with the year model. It should tell you on the tops of the master cylinder.

Extreme care must be taken whenever working on brakes. Make sure they work properly. Failure to test the brakes for proper operation prior to riding the bike can result in sever injury or death.

Apr 09, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

2 Answers

Bleeding front brakes

Your $7 bleeder kit typically has a near useless one valve in it. Forget the kits such as these, they usually make things confusing for you.
Firts, make sure all teh brake lines are tightly connected and in good condition. If the flexible lines are over 5 years old, conside getting new ones made/fitted. Stainless/braided lines look good but are NOT necessary for any road bike.

All you need is a long piece of clear hose line (fish tank air line tubing usually works well) that fits the top of the bleed nipples very firmly. The hose should be long enough to hang over your handle bars, or be suspended by a wire or string so that the open end is higher than the master cylinder. You can use two such hoses and do both front calipers at the same time if you wish.

First, manouver the handle bars so that the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible, even to the point of undoing the grip clamp and rotating the whole assembly around the handle bars a bit. Then fit the clear hoses to the caliper bleed nipples.
Remove the top of the master cylinder reseviour and make sure the fluid is topped up. Watch this level the whole time, it is important that the fluid level never get below half full or you risk reintroducing air into the brake lines again. Never reuse old fluid, and always filter any new fluid that has been in the brake system before (run it through a new fuel filter if you are that hard up for money) you reuse it.
Then crack open the bleed nipples on the calipers so that you see fluid start to rise up the hoses ( which is why you want clear hoses). You can pump the lever a few times to get things happening quicker, just watch the master fluid level!
Keep pumping the lever and topping up the fluid level until the level in the tubes is at the same level as the master cylinder. Leave the bleeder nipples open and leave the bike alone for an hour.
After an hour, close the bleeder nipples and top up and refit the master cylinder reserviour cover.
Use a jar under each hose to catch the fluid, remove each hose from its bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the jar. Ditch the used fluid.
Reset the grip to its proper position if it was moved and test the brakes. Pump the lever two times and then release the lever for a few minutes ( at least 1 minute) If the brakes are still soft or wont hold pressure ( if you still have to pump the lever to get pressure, dont ride the bike!) then suspect worn master cylinder or buggered seals.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2006 kawasaki ER-6f

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