Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLHR-FLHRI Road king

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Do you remove the o ring on the road king cluch inspection plate

Do you remove the "O" ring on the primary housing that sits between the clutch inspection plate and the primary housing when you install the flate gasket that you purchase in a gasket kit?

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Do not use the rubber ring only the gasket.

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

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HOW DO I CHANGE MY CLUTCH AND PLATES 2008 FLHTCU?


Clutch and plates replacement can be performed on the motorcycle without removing the clutch shell or hub.


FIRST remove the primary chaincase cover. THEN remove six metric bolts to release the clutch diaphragm spring retainer from the clutch hub by loosening each bolt gradually and in a star sequence around the Hub circumference and then remove the diaphragm spring retainer, the diaphragm spring and pressure plate from the clutch hub and after the pressure plate has been removed remove the 9 friction plates, the steel plates, the damper spring and the damper spring seat from the clutch hub. Clean and inspect as necessary and wash all parts except for friction plates (and any bearing if removed) in appropriate cleaning solvent and then blow parts dry with low pressure compressed air as high pressure compressed air is unnecessary and dangerous. CHECK the friction plates by blowing off all lubricant from them BUT DO NOT wipe them off with a rag if they are going to be reused. THEN measure the thickness of each plate with a dial caliper or micrometer and if any plate is less than 0.143 in. (3.62 mm) thick throw them all away and replace them with a complete new set. ALSO look for worn or damaged fiber surface material on all sides. If new friction plates will be installed soak them all in FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAINCASE LUBRICANT (or whatever equivalent oil that you will be using in the primary after reassembly) for at least five minutes. THEN CHECK the steel plates for any grooving, bluish colouring (which indicates overheating/burning and which is usually accompanied with distortion/warping) and check for distortion by laying each plate on a machinist or other precision flat surface and try to insert a 0.006 inch (0.15 mm) feeler gauge between the plate and the precision surface. Do this in several places around the plate. If the feeler gauge slips under any plate or any plate is grooved, bluish or otherwise appears to be defective discard it and replace with a new plate. THEN rotate the clutch hub and shell to check for bearing smoothness and replace the bearing if it runs roughly, binds or has any end play. ALSO check the primary chain sprocket and the starter ring gear on the clutch shell at this time and replace the clutch shell if either the sprocket or ring gear are badly worn or damaged. ALSO check the slots that mate with the clutch plates on both the clutch shell and the hub and replace the shell or hub if any of the slots are worn or damaged (wear here can cause clutch hang-up on release). NOW check the diaphragm spring and diaphragm spring retainer for cracks or bent tabs and replace if any damage is evident.


After having soaked the friction plates as advised above first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring

seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm). THEN install the primary chaincase cover with a new gasket and torque the fasteners to 108-120 in-lbs (12.2-13.6 Nm) in a sequence top to bottom from the centre to the front and then top to bottom from the centre to the back of the cover and then reinstall the primary case drain plug and o-ring and torque it to 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). THEN refill the primary chaincase with lubricant only up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (if there is too much oil the clutch may drag). THEN adjust the clutch by turning the clutch adjustment screw in until it just resists and then with the cable slack somewhat removed operate the clutch lever a few times to set the clutch release balls in their ramps and then recheck the clutch release pushrod adjustment screw again so that it just resists tightening as it is screwed in and then back it out one half to one full turn and while holding it stationary tighten the adjuster screw lock nut. THEN the cable can be adjusted to provide one sixteenth to one eighth of an inch of freeplay at the clutch cable bracket or perch on the handlebars. THEN reinstall the clutch inspection (derby) cover with the five T-27 Torx screws and washers and alternatively in a cross pattern tighten the screws to 84- 108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm).

Jun 19, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLHRI Road King

1 Answer

How to change the oil on a 2004 flhrs primary trans. oil change


Drain from the drain plug on the bottom of the primary case and refill only up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring through the clutch inspection (derby) cover.

Jun 03, 2014 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLHRS - FLHRSI Road...

1 Answer

Clutch chattering while releasing clutch on 2009 electra glide classic


Was it recently apart or not? If not it is possible the judder spring is broken/bad but more likely the primary fluid is VERY LOW or more likely you have worn down fiber plqates and/or burnt/warped steel plates so the clutch would need to come apart and be inspected or if you need a tech to do this and you have the expertise and knowledge to replace the whole clutch as an assembnly that might be cheaper than having your clutch rebuilt.

Sep 19, 2012 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

1 Answer

How do i replace the clutch plates on my 2009 roadking?


Hi Duckie, for more information about your question please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice day.
Harley clutch pack replacement on twin cam 2 7 remove outer primary

Aug 13, 2012 | 2009 Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King...

1 Answer

Replace drive belt 2003 harley road king


this is a pretty big job, the whole primary needs to come off, clutches, compensating sprocket, and inner primary. you need to unbolt the swingarm, remove the left side isolator, unbolt left shock, carefull sneak the belt between the trans housing and swingarm. If you wanna tackle this yourself. your are gonna need a manual, there are alot of specs to follow. you really need to look closely at the 3 transmission seals, any wetness, i would change them, i usually change them all anyway. you need to change the inner primary seal and starter shaft seal while you're in there.

Mar 20, 2012 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

1 Answer

Change a drive belt


to change the final drive belt on your Road King, you must pull the entire primary off. The outer primary cover, the clutch and primary chain, the inner primary, and the starter must come off. Then, you have to remove the rear wheel, remove the shocks, and pull the swing arm out as well. It's a major job.

Good Luck
Steve

Feb 19, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHR-FLHRI Road king

2 Answers

How do i change my clutch and plates on a 1996 harley davidson roadking


On your '96 model, you need a special tool to disassemble the clutch pack. The tool is # HD-38515A clutch spring compression tool. Jim's and several other manufacturers make this tool. JP Cycle has a Jim's Part Number: 620-198 for $50.

Disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Remove any floorboards and other thing necessary to get the outer primary cover off. Using the above mentioned tool, compress the clutch spring and remove the lock ring that holds the spring in. Take note that there is a lock ring seat on top of the spring. This part is like a solid ring that goes behind the lock ring. It is "L" shaped so pay particular attention to the way it is positioned. Once you get the lock ring off, release the tension on the tool and allow the spring to come out of the clutch outer drum. Start taking the old disc out and laying them aside. Notice where the "sping plate" goes in the clutch stack. Replace it in the same position. Soak your new plates in oil overnight and then install them into the clutch drum exactly like the old ones came out. Install the spring and use the compression tool to install the lock ring and seat.

Adjust the clutch according to service manual directions and replace the outer primary cover. Add oil and reconnect the battery.

Ride Safe
Steve

Jan 03, 2011 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLHRI Road King

1 Answer

2008 Harley davidson cluch cable leak


There's nothing in a clutch cable to leak. It's simply a cable housing with a twisted cable inside of it. There is a seal to keep the transmission fluid out of the inside of the cable. But, if you're leaking trans fluid at the lower end, read on.

Now, down where the cable goes into the chrome clutch release mechanism on the right side of the bike, there is an O-ring on the cable to prevent trans oil from leaking out. Try tightening the cable right where it goes in. If this doesn't stop it, you'll have to remove the cable and replace the O-ring.

To replace the O-ring, you will have to remove the chrome clutch release mechanism. First drain the transmission oil by removing the drain plug. You'll probably have to remove at least part of the exhaust system to gain access to the release mechanism. Then remove the bolts that hold the clutch release mechanism on. Turn the release mechanism over to where you can disconnect the clutch cable for the release ramp. Turn the clutch release mechanism off of the cable. Replace the O-ring, put on a new end gasket, and reassemble in reverse order. Torque the bolts that holds the chrome clutch release mechanism on to 100 inch pounds. Refill the tranny with oil.

Good Luck,
Steve

May 07, 2010 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

1 Answer

Leaking cluch cable.


There's an O-ring at the end of the clutch cable sheath, it probably needs replacing.

May 07, 2010 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King...

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