Recently purchased 2000 Jackal. Oil leak from vicinity of crankcase after 100 miles. Cleaned crankcase, checked bolts for tightness, traced leak to small slot centered directly in rear above where crankcase bolts up to housing. Checked crankcase and transmission oil levels. OK.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
Moto Guzzi Master
Re: oil leak from small slot directly above crankcase
It is most likely seepage between the crankcase and the housing, this is caused by slight warp-age of the case halves and is a common leak/seep area, you can pull the case apart AND REPLACE THE GASKET AND TRUE UP THE MATING SURFACES AND MOST LIKELY CURE THE LEAK, BUT THAT IS ALLOT OF WORK, JUST KEEP AN EYE ON IT
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
1) Is the oil actually low on the dipstick?
If it is, you might have an oil leak, so you would need to look underneath and see. Also look for puddles when you park.
The most common reason for such consumption would be a burst oil pressure switch, or a leaking valve cover gasket.
Either of these will leak lots of oil.
The last possible reasons, which are really rare, would be engine parts defective,( like oil rings), or a leak in the brake booster which would suck oil from the crankcase into the brake booster.
2) If the oil is not leaking out, and the dipstick shows full, you will be needing a new oil pressure switch, or to have the electronics repaired.
God bless your efforts.
engine oil can not leak into the cv joint dust covers, or as you call it boot chambers. That would be axle grease. You do not want to clean those out. If you overfilled the crankcase oil and experienced leakage there is a great chance a main seal has failed. be it front or rear it's not an easy fix.
The problem is the the air breathers inside the rocker covers. Sad to say,but nearly all of them do this. One solution is to take off the air filter cover. There should be two bolts..(one on each side of the inside of the housing) that SHOULD have hoses hooked to them. If they do not have the hoses hooked to them,then that is your problem. See,these bolts are hollow,and have a nipple on the ends of them. These allow the top end to "breathe",a crankcase pressure relief if you will.Anyway,..these nipples are SUPPOSED to have a small hose on each of them,that re-direct the oil/crankcase pressure, into the carb/throttle body,which eliminates the oil running into your air filter housing.Check to make sure they are in fact there,and let me know what you find.
HEAVY DUTY OIL BOOSTER STOP LEAK 1 GALLON, 4-PACK OR
Gunk M2112 Engine Oil Stop Leak OR
Gold Eagle Engine Stop Leak Safely stops engine oil leaks. Compatible with all engine oils. Prevents costly IF none of these products work I would recommend cleaning off the lower half of your engine with some brakleen and checking to see how quickly it leaks. Most crankcase leaks do not leak as much as they seep. If it is seeping or has a slow leak you can clean the crankcase at oil change and you will probably not have any oil dripping from the underside of your car. If that is the case that small of a leak in my opinion doesn't warrant resealing the crankcase. If you do have a major leak and need to reseal the crankcase, you do not need to remove the engine. You do however have to remove the transmission and the cradle and hang the motor with a fixture. When resealing the crankcase, for best results use factory gasket sets and make sure all surfaces are very clean and and do not have any nicks or scratches. also use an anaerobic sealer in addition to the rubber gaskets, and make sure to properly torque all fasteners. As for everyones oil consumption complaints all Northstars will burn some oil. GM says up to 1 quart per thousand miles is acceptable. If you are using multiple quarts between oil changes you may consider performing or having the dealership perform a top engine clean. This will loosen the carbon from the top end of the motor and help free up sticking piston rings. The Northstar motor runs hot and has a tendency to pruduce a lot of carbon. In addition to this using an in tank injector cleaner will help the motor stay cleaner and burn less oil. Another common carbon problem will be in your throttle body. If you feel the accelerator pedal beginning to stick you should check the throttle plate and throttle bore for sticky carbon build up. It is easily cleaned out with some carb cleaner and a tooth brush. Hope that helps. Good luck,
A ticking noise is normally caused by a lifter. Your car is 11 years old so more than likely is high mileage. There could be some carbon buildup in the lifter or it may just be worn. Purchase a can of Seafoam Motor Treatment at most auto parts stores and walmart. Pour 1.5 ounces of Seafoam for each quart of oil capacity in the crankcase 100 miles before you change your oil & filter. rive that 100 miles, and then change your oil and filter and add Seafoam to the freshly changed oil. Drive the car for 1,000 miles and change the oil & filter again. Repeat the process and then change your oil & filter at 5,000 miles. If you have a sticking liter this will solve the problem. If the lifter is still ticking then it is worn or severely gummed up with carbon. The ticking will do no real harm and is expensive to repair.
On your '93 model, the crankcase vent is down low on the engine behind the oil pump and it runs up to the air filter through a metal and rubber hose. I don't know how many miles you have on your engine but it you're getting any blow-by on the rings, this will increase the pressure in the crankcase. Most people simply re-route the crankcase breather underneath the bike and plug the hole on the backside of the air filter. Replace the metal line with a rubber hose and put a small filter in the end of the hose. Route the hose back behind the transmission and attach it to the transmission mounting plate just in front of the rear wheel.
This was the way the older Shovelheads were done from the factory for years until the EPA made them start running the crankcase vented air through the engine. In 1994, Harley went to the "head breather" system and moved the crankcase vents to the heads. Still, the oil mist in the vented air builds up in the air cleaner on these models as well.
Regrettably, a small oil leak from the air cleaner assembly is "normal". This is because the EPA requires all crankcase emissions to be routed to the intake system so that it can be burned in the engine. The result is that oil mist in the crankcase vented condenses in the air cleaner and eventually drips out.
The crankcase vent for your Sporty is in the heads. If you noticed, there are two large bolts that are hollow holding the air filter backing plate on. The crankcase vents into the air cleaner assembly through these two bolts. There is an "unbrella valve" in the rocker box center section that allows the air to flow one way but not the other. There are baffles in this area to keep the oil mist to a minimum but still there is some in the air coming out of the engine.
There are a few kits available on the aftermarket for re-routing this crankcase vent. You can direct the exit anywhere you wish using one of these kits. Most people just route the hose down and exit it under the bike just in front of the rear wheel.
When adding oil to your bike, only add the oil when the engine is hot. On your dipstick, you have two marks. The upper mark represents "FULL HOT" while the lower mark represents 'FULL COLD", Do not overfill. Check the level with the bike on the side stand.
Oil leak can be attributed to several factors. 1. Gasket failure. 2. Uncontrolled Crank case pressure Failure.
RECOMENDATION: Tighten both the valve cover and oil pan bolts. Replace the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve and vacuum line.,
INFO: PCV This is a valve causes a negative vacuum on the engine while its running, As to say if it had a leak in a valve cover it should not be leaking while its running, only when the engine it turned off.
Hope this tip guides you in the correct direction to solve this problem.
if it's not going onto the ground, and it's not being burned, check the positive crankcase ventilation and the exhaust gas recirculation valves for oil seepage...also check your air filter, if its got oil on it replace the pcv valve.
Every manufacturer has a guideline. But a quart every 1,000 miles seems higher then necessary. Try the easy steps first.
1. Check the PCV valve if clogged will caused pressure in crankcase and oil burning.
2. Remove spark plugs and perform visual inspection. IF electrode is covered in gook(technical terms, sorry), then oil is leaking into that cylinder. Most likely cause would be faulty valve stem seals.
3. Worse case scenario, engine oil rings are leaking. If all else is good. Perform compression test of each cylinder recording measurement, then add two small squirt of engine oil into each cylinder as you perform a second round, complete both dry then wet compression test on each cylinder before proceeding. IF any cylinder shows a more significant increase in compression then it would indicate that cylinder's oil rings are faulty. This is a major repair. Keep me posted