I changed my primary and cam cover, after sitting a month I craked it up, It sounded fine, I ran it a little while and put in in gear several times, All of a suden i was hearing chattering noise, DOES ANY ONE HAVE AN ANSWER.
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Hi Lasse, could be the springs after you torque the compensating bolt/nut try turning the compensating spring pack cover by hand if it moves you need new springs and I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Sportster but despair not for a mere $10 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. Harley Davidson Manuals Mark Workshop
right found the question
sounds to me the that either the crank nut or the cam nut is rubbing on the head cover casing
pop the cam cover casing off and have a look
for any scraping marks
if that is the problem it needs to go in the shop for a look at
it could be the mains or the spacer washers on the crank
or something simple link the clutch
i know its low milage but these need very regular full service and oil change every 10 to 15k
The first and easiest thing to check is the primary chain tension. In the middle of the top run, you should have 3/8" to 1/2" up and down play with the engine cold. Check this through the small hole in the top of the outer primary cover. Adjust with the adjuster screw on the underside of the cover. Also look on the inside of the outer cover to see if the sprocket shaft nut has come loose and is rubbing the cover. It could also be a magnet in the rotor on your alternator has come loose. To check that, you'll have to pull the primary chain, engine sprocket, and clutch assembly off to get the rotor off. The mainshaft nut that holds the clutch on had left handed threads.
Your 2003 Sportster should have been equipped with a vacuum operated petcock unless someone has changed it out. This is highly likely since the factory units were very prone to problems. To drain the primary, look for a pipe plug underneath the primary at the very back underneath the area of the clutch. Refill with one quart of H-D 20W50 SYN3 engine oil or any other suitable lubricant.
With the engine running, put the transmission into gear and sit there with the clutch lever pulled in. Do you still hear the noise. If so, most likely the noise is in the primary itself rather than the transmission. Since you didn't specify whether the bike is a Sportster or a BIg Twin, it's difficult to say what the noise may be. It could be a bearing going bad. The problem with that is that you can disassemble the bike and never find the bearing. It could be the big bearing in the outer clutch shell or it could the mainshaft support bearing in the inner primary if it's a big twin. A Sportster has basically the same bearings but in different areas. If the bike is equipped with one of those automatic primary chain tensioners, I've seen them make a noise as well. Then again, a noise like that is very difficult to find. It seems to travel all through the engine. It could possibly be an inner cam bearing going bad. They sound exactly like the alternator whine on a Chevrolet. If you have one of those mechanic's stethoscopes or long screwdriver, listen to various places on your engine to try to locate the noise more closely.
The large nut on the compensator sprocket may be loose causing the problem. I am a bit confused though. You aren't clear about what has 800 miles on it. Does the bike, a 2002 model, only have 800 miles on it or does the new primary chain have 800 miles on it? Either way, if it's doing this, I'd pull the primary cover off and check everything inside the primary.
No, just drain the primary. You'll have to take anything like shifters, foot pegs, and other stuff that might be in the way off the bike. Then, go underneath the primary cover and loosen the locknut of the primary chain tensioner and turn the screw downwards to remove the tension for the tensioner. Now, take the derby cover off and remove the spring and the locknut. Take the bolts out of the cover and then turn the clutch ajuster inwards as you pull the cover off. The cover will come off.
Then to install the cover, hold it up to the clutch adjuster and turnt the screw counterclock wise as you put the cover back on. Put all the bolts in the cover and tighten them. Then back at the clutch adjuster, turn the screw outwards until it stops. Then turn it back inwards 1/4 turn, put the locknut and the spring in and replace the derby cover. Remove the top plug of the primary cover. Stick you finger in and feel the up and down play of the primary chain. Adjust the bolt at the bottom of the primary upwards to reduce the play to about 1/2" to 5/8" and lock the lock nut. Refill the primary with one quart of primary-transmision lube. Replace anything else you have taken off the bike.
Your looking at 2.8qts for the engine add another 1/2 quart or so for the filter. Always put a little oil in and then add till full. Use the amounts identified as a guide to how much oil to have on hand. You primary may use 22 - 28 ounces, and your tranny a little less than a quart. so have at least 5 quarts available for a complete fluid change (and filter) and you should be good to go! Hope this helps.
The Sportster has a "cassette" type transmission. The transmission can be removed without the necessity of splitting the cases to get at it like most other motorcycles.
To remove the transmission one must remove the primary drive component that include the compensator sprocket, the primary chain, and the clutch assembly on the left side of the engine. On the right side of the engine, you'll have to remove the rear brake master cylinder, the front chain sprocket cover, and the front chain sprocket.
Going back to the left side of the engine and remove the four bolts that hold the transmission front plate (access cover) to the engine cases. There are two "pry points" on the access cover. Look around the edge of the cover and you will see them. Pry the access cover off gently and the transmission will come out of the engine cases. The shifter shaft will remain in the cases. When you reinstall the transmission, mark the shaft in such a manner that you can tell what position the shifter shaft finger is pointing. It should be level pointing to the rear of the engine as the transmission is reinstalled in the case.
If you can find a Clymer's manual #M428, it explains in detail the removal and repair of the transmission.