We have a ZZR1200 that will not start. We last used the bike on 6th Nov, 2008. it has been under a cover on its side stand. I had not turned the fuel off. the battery seems to have a habit of running down pretty quick, and I thought this may be due to the alarm being on. When charged I am getting 13.6 volts reading from the battery. However, on pressing the starter button, all I am getting is a buzzing sound and what seems like vibration from the starter solenoid. I have fitted another solenoid, but the same happens. I have heard of hydrostatic lock, so have put the bike on it's centre stand and removed the plugs, put it in gear and tried to turn the rear wheel. I cannot move this. Any suggestions????? Heeeeeellp!!! Des.
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Re: kawasaki zzr1200 non starter
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
A few ideas:
The buzzing/vibration would be the solenoid and it would only do so if the battery's charge is not sufficient to start the bike. If the battery is fully charged, then the sound would be a click/clack;
to try & free the engine internals, with the plugs removed, sparingly spray the inside of the combustion chamber with WD40 or preferably 2T oil (used for 2 stroke bikes). Let it sit for a while and then try turning the rear wheel while in first gear with the plugs still off;
alternately, try the starter again with the same conditions as above but rather than one long press of the starter button, try short/momentary press of the start button;
if the above fails, you may need to gain access to the left side of the engine by removing some of the body works. Some versions have a snap-off circular cover on the body. There would be a disc with slot, Remove said disc. Inside would be a big nut 17/19mm. You would need preferably a T wrench that fits and would be used to turn the crankshaft but not fully forcing it. You have to do it by feel. If considerable resistance, stop;
remove the entire body work; remove cylinder head with care on the rubber gasket. apply WD40 oil liberally on the camshaft, caps and let it drip down on the timing chain.
try again using the T wrench.
Would appreciate an update. Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.
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Hi, Ian change the word "plug" to "flower" and you will be right as rain lol, seriously the water is not the problem it's merely a messenger saying you have an issue with your spark plug, possibly cracked, or the spark plug cable/cap is faulty/leaking voltage for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day. KAWASAKI ZZR1200 Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki Download Manual 2003 Kawasaki ZZR1200 Owner Manual
Hi, just looking at unsolved and noticed your question, your cheapest bet would be Kawasaki zzr1200 or zrx1200 ( lower power and only 5 speed ) the zzr12 is the forgotten hyper bike and in the UK at least is not desirable in the way that Hayabusa and Honda Blackbird motors are, but does it need to be a 1200 ? as a Kawasaki zzr1100 would fit the bill, makes 147 bhp ( quoted for full power ) on carbs, making less wiring etc for a special and if you bought a running riding bike you will probably get the motor for very little cost by the time you sell on the parts you don't require, food for thought maybe ?
If the engine is very worn, try using a softer plug as that will help to burn off the oil deposits or if the plug is not pink but grey, make the misture skightly richer so it will burn cooler. Hope this helps.
Look at the sidewall of both tires. There will be a 'MAX PSI' embossed on the tire. It will probably say Max 45 PSI. At 45psi the bike will ride like a rock. At 15psi it will ride really squirrely. Find a psi at which you feel the bike handles well and rides well. One rider may weigh 125 pounds and the next rider may weigh 300 pounds. The best psi for each rider will be different due to weight. Chances are that 30 to 35 psi will do the trick.
Being electronic ignition, the timing should not be out.
It is more likely there is tight valve clearances, this will cause backfire and poor fuel economy and poor idle. also if it is not corrected it can burn valves and seats.
full tune and service with valve adjustment.
You will have a very difficult time getting it low enough to fit you adequately. The seat height is nearly 32 inches stock, so compare that with your inseam and see how much you would need to adjust. It is doubtful you will get the bike that low without ground clearance and fender clearance issues, safety aside.
But, to answer your question:
The front fork tubes can be slid up the triple clamps over an inch, sometimes as much as 2 inches. Your fender may need to be removed however.
The rear you will have to buy/fabricate a lowering link set. There are several styles available on ebay.com for your bike.
I would also recommend taking your seat to an upholsterer and having some of the foam removed to provide more clearance for you.
Be advised that all modifications to the ride height of your bike adversely effects your ride quality and control. The amount that you need to lower your bike could and likely will make it much more difficult to maneuver due to the skewed suspension geometry. Please be careful!