Question about 2003 Yamaha TT-R 125 LE
Put fuel tank valve to "on"
pull out choke lever/knob
turn out kickstart lever
Posted on Feb 22, 2009
you need to unair it then, to do that its best to be two ppl. one who pumps 10-15 times on the handle and them keeps the handle to the bottom, and the other who release the niple to let the air out.
You neen to do that until no more air is coming out, and if needed you need to fil more oil in the oilbox for the breakes.
Sorry for my poor english, i hope you understand me anyway
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
too much fuel will cause same symptoms, grab a can of car throttlebody cleaner from the parts store, and pinch the fuel line off, and attempt to start till fuel is empty in the bowl of the carb, then spray cleaner in carb with the throttle full open 2 to 3 times close throttle, start, as it attempts to run spray slowley while engine runs, adjusting the flow as you rev engine.this eleminates poss bad gas or carb problems. if it runs fine this way then check gas, and check the carb. (while cleaning use a small wire to clean the tubes inside the carb as well, good luck!
Posted on Oct 13, 2009
Testimonial: "thanks verry much"
The top end comes off then the left and right side covers, flywheel, clutch and shift shaft. Now a case splitter is used to split the center case halves. To replace the bearing you will need a hydraulic press to disassemble and reassemble the crank halves. If the bearing is seized you should replace the bearing, crank pin and the connecting rod. The crank must be realigned using twin dial gages. Personally, I suggest a new crank assembly be purchased from www.babbittsonline.com ( $241 ). I would replace the crank end bearings at the same time and also the sprocket shaft outer bearing and seal. Please rate my answer.
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
SOURCE: how do you replace the
forks are a lot of fun after you know all the great things you can do with it. for starts is you tube bent? for do you just want to replace the seals? Well ether way you need to take it apart. flip the fork over so you can see the bottom of the fork, you should a hex brolt If i remember right it should be a 6 mm, remove that bolt when you do it will let the oil out when you flip the fork right side up as have a pan ready. with the fork right side up and in your oil pan go head and remove the nut on the top, it IS under pressure from the spring and will want pop off when you unscrewed it. now remove the spring and and all the goodies inside the should slide right out if you tube isnt bent or not bent bad. next step is remove the dust seal, that the rubber part that the tubes slide on a small flat head or pick will help. Under that there is a spring clip that holds the seal in remove it. with the dust seal and seal retaining clip out the fun starts. hold the slideing tube in one hand and the body in the other. collapse the fork and slide it apart fast and with some gusto this will knock the seal out repeat till its apart. once it's apart you'll see the seal and bushing. remove both bushings be easy with them they bend with little force. now you have it apart. Race tech is a leader in suspension, look them up on line and they can get you all your parts and till you how much and what kind of fork fliud to use. I'm also giveing you a link worldofpowersports.com they will have the micro phish for your bike and you can see how the parts in the fork come out and go in.
Posted on Apr 19, 2011
If you have set the float properly and the carb is clean, other than changing the air filter and cleaning the intake tract I would pull the gas tank, dump the fuel and remove the petc0ck - there is a small filter on it that should be cleaned or at least checked. Fill it with fresh fuel.
Other than that - you should be good to go! Good luck!!
Posted on May 27, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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