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The marks on the chain are for your convenience i.e. no need to count links between crank and cam(s).
The chain markings shift depending on the number of links in the chain and number of teeth on the crank and cam gears, but the number of links (rotational distance) between crank and cams remains the same.
Once you turn the crank it it may take dozens of revolutions to sync back to the marks on the chain, unless you reverse the same number of revolutions.
So if you want to recheck timing after multiple crank revolutions, you need to count links from crank to cam and cam to cam or redo the timing procedure.
Think of it this way... you could stretch a chain around the moon and timing will be good but it will take hundreds of thousands of revolutions before the marks return to earth and likely still not in sync with gear marks.
In the old small block days no one counted links because crank and cam gears were adjacent, in the same planes and timing intuitive.
According to this article, the 2.2 engine has a timing chain.
To see if the chain is bad it is best to take off the timing cover in order to see it the timing marks are correctly lined up because the chain may not have broken, but have jumped several teeth on the sprocket.
I think the M130 engine uses a timing chain. To get you timing marks set up correctly you mignt have to take the top rocker cover off to see the Cam timing marks.
The Crank should be set up to the centre 'OT' mark for Top Dead Centre, (TDC). there is a set of numbered marks either side of it. The pulley is marked for both Top Dead Centre and Bottom Dead Centre, (BDC). Being a Mercedes the marks are in German. OT for TDC and UT for BDC.
Look for some Youtube videos on this repair. If I remember correctly the links on this chain have different color metal for the spots that the cam tooth goes against. When each side is in the proper tooth the right and left colored links will be on the cam mark and the crank mark should be on the timing TDC mark. Sounds like the slack you describe is wrong and a tooth is off because the tensioner is allowing slack.. You need to slip a tooth one way or the other until the tensioner has room to be in a neutral position.
no way of doing so. need to remove cover. i have been doing this since 1996 and have never seen chain driven nissan jump timing. have seen some timing belt cars jump, but never chain driven engines. i think you have something else going on. i have done many and many timing chain jobs on frontiers and maximas, but not for a timing chain jumping issue. upper timing chain shoes wear out and engine gets noisy. i have to say i have seen some with the primary chain stretched a bit, but car still ran fine.
This is a 3 to 4 hour job if you know what your doing. Everything on the front of the engine has to come off. These chains rarely go bad or stretch to make an engine run bad. What is the problem you are having?
NOTE: Assemble the timing chain, crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket with the timing marks aligned Fig. 5 .
Apply Mopar(TM) Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant to the keyway in the crankshaft and insert the key With the key in the keyway on the crankshaft, install the assembly on the crankshaft and camshaft.
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Install the camshaft sprocket retaining preload bolt and washer Fig. 6 . Tighten the preload bolt to 108 N.m (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
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To verify correct installation of the timing chain, turn the crankshaft to position the camshaft sprocket timing mark as shown in Fig. 7 . Count the number of chain pins between the timing marks of both sprockets. There must be 15 pins. NOTE: Installation of the timing chain with the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets properly aligned ensures correct valve timing. A worn or stretched timing chain will adversely affect valve timing. If the timing chain deflects more than 12.7 mm (1/2 inch) replace it. The correct timing chain has 48 pins. A chain with more than 48 pins will cause excessive slack.
Install the crankshaft oil slinger.
Replace the oil seal in the timing case cover.
Lubricate the tension spring, thrust pin and pin bore in the preload bolt with Mopar(TM) Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent. Install the spring and thrust pin in the preload bolt head Fig. 6 .
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Install the timing case cover and gasket.
With the key installed in the crankshaft keyway, install the vibration damper, washer and bolt. Lubricate and tighten the bolt to 108 N.m (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
Install the serpentine drive belt and tighten to the specified tension, Refer to Engine/Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories/Drive Belt/Service and Repair for the proper procedure.
Install the fan and hub (or Temporal fan) assembly. Install the shroud.
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