Was first thought due to leaving fuel on and leaving on side stand for long periods but since changing oil and putting on a paddock stand seems to be happening again after only about 60 miles. Any ideas wot can be causing this?
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The vaccum pump should only work when put in 4 wheel drive.If the truck is running rough the vaccum pump isnt it.Suspect fuel filter, water in fuel, bad injector harness under valve covers.That truck will run bad also if the oil hasnt been changed periodically because the ipr valve cannot work right due to dirty oil and gives icp sensor a bad signal.That truck has the 7.3L , very good engine.
Your oil pressure is due to the oil. Use some Lucas and it will bring your oil pressure up, What kind of oil are you using. You should use a good oil like Valv, Quaker, or Cast. I don't recommend Penz but its up to you. use a 5w30 with Lucas and it will help the oil pressure. Get some fuel treatment and it will help with your injectors and the lean running. Also use some Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel and oil to help clean your system. or heat. Try that and see if it helps. good luck..
hi there these have the same problems as the bmw when on the side stand over a period of time the engine oil goes past the rings on the pistons on that side the side stand is only good for dropping in to a shop or something like that,so if your putting it up for the night or longer use your centre stand this should fix the problems a lot of bmw ownerswhen new would leave them on the side stand and go back to the dealer very upset because they had a dud motor untill they were advised of the problem,it was in the owners manual byt as bikes get sold on the manuals dont go with them,so try this and i am pretty sure the problem will go away ,cheers pete
You have a bad gasket in your mixer, the oil inside from KA is 6 oz. and the oil is due to separation, as KA uses a food safe vegetable based grease and after periods of non use it separates, liquids from solids, and leaks when the gasket seal goes. It is a messy fix but fairly easy, ereplacmentparts.com has a video on it. hope this helped
Look underneath the transmission and you'll see two drain plugs. The drain plug for the engine oil is the one closest to the left front corner of the oil pan. Drain the oil with the bike on the side stand. Change the oil filtter. Refill with three quarts of 20W50 oil. Check the oil level with the dipstick while it's on the side stand. There are two marks on the stick. The lower mark is 'FULL COLD" and the upper mark is "FULL HOT". Do not overfill.
Don't forget to change the primary oil and the transmission lube when it comes due.
Allthough standing the unit upright will cause the oil to drain from the condenser coils back into the compressor sump, thus preventing damage to the compressor, it is possible that if the refrigerator was on it's side with the outlet to the compressor down for an extended period, some oil could have migrated into the capilary tube, which would block the flow of refrigerant. This is such a thin tube, that you may never be able to rectify the problem. If the compressor and both condenser and evaporator fans run, but still no cooling, I'd try to get my money back.
Yes, the cams will be bone dry, remove the camcovers and drain the old oil, pour fresh oil over the cams, refit the covers and fill with oil,it may or may not start with the old petrol so give it a try, if it wets the plugs and there is a decent spark you will have to drain the tank and use fresh fuel,
If the oil is at the correct level and is clean then you may have a problem with the oil pressure switch. As for the fuel gauge, it may be due to the shape of the tank. The fuel gauge gets its signal from a floater inside the fuel tank that moves up and down as the fuel level changes. At certain level the fuel would seem to rise. Try to fill it up completely and observe.