Question about 2000 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic Tourer Fi

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Kawasaki vn1500 classic 1st gear problem!..

My 1996 kawasaki vn1500 classic jumps in 1st gear when pulling away but is ok in all other gears..i've replaced all friction plates and torque limiter springs but this as not sorted the problem,i would be grateful for any advise on what the problem may be or known faults..thanks paul..

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It sounds like you have a broken dog on 1st gear. (on sprocket inside gear box) gearbox needs stripping down and investigating.

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

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Got97VlcnClssc1500,20k,ran fine when brght home,sat here,strtd daily,not ridden.Needed 2chng brk line and pads.2day went 2 ride,pull cltch put in 1st bumps 4ward,but wldnt move whn cltch rlsd stillran


Hi, Paul and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
2. Insufficient clutch spring tension.
3. Friction discs or steel discs are worn or warped
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Hi,it sounds from what you are saying that you have got a inturnal falt with the gearbox,im affried the only way to make a propper diagnoses is to take it apart and look at the gear sincros there has to be worn bearings,or teeth on the gears,or the sellector,or something has just manidged to come loose.
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The clutch plates are dragging. This causes the clutch shaft to turn even when the bike is in neutral and the clutch is dis-engaged ( handle pulled in ). When the shift fork moves to engage 1st gear, the bike jumps due to the shaft rotation. When was the last oil change? Dirty oil can cause clutch drag. Also, are you using synthetic lubricants? Some of them can swell the cork on the friction plates and that swelling causes dragging. tombones49_286.gif

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Hi, make sure your lever is adjusted to your foot. You can turn the linkage arm adjuster up or down to get a better throw on the lever. If you don't wear boots when riding, this is always a problem on a Kawasaki due to the positive neutral finder. The fist question you get when you call the Kawasaki Hotline is if the rider wears boots or not.
If adjusting the lever doesn't help the problem is internal. Under the gear change cover the items to check would be the pawl that rotates the drum and the detent arm and spring. If the edge of the pawl is worn, it won't move the drum far enough. If the detent arm or spring isn't working, it will want to drop into a false neutral. I've had very good luck by removing all of the parts and polishing them, removing any burrs and replacing the springs. If the problem isn't found under the cover in the gear change area then the only other solution is to pull the motor apart and inspect the tranny itself.

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I have a 95 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 88 SE and I put new valves in as well as rings. I came upon an issue and wanted to ask about it. When lining up the timing mark on the alternator/crank pulley, I know that...


Hi, Corey_stackh the "TF" is the one you use once set it will automatically set the rear cylinder timing the "R" is there for convenience for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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CORRECT. COMPLETE ENGINE DISASSEMBLY BECAUSE CRANKCASES SPLIT HORIZONTALLY CYLINDER'S MUST COME OFF FIRST. BIG BUCKS

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sounds like the gear selector plate plunger is worn or needs a new spring. on most engines a hollow screw @ 3/4" is accessible from under gear box, take it out and stretch the spring and retry to eliminate possibility.

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Hi Buddy
There is not an easy solution to your gearbox problem,it is general wear on the 'dogs' or 'shift drum'..The only other thing it could be is wear on the 'external shift mechanism'.
I,ve just rebuilt a 1996 vn1500 classic whitch had the same problem so if you need any advise or step by step photos please email me at 'pjuma@hotmail.co.uk'
paul

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