Look behind the carbs if you see a little wheel abought the size of a 25 cent piece turn it to the left or right till the idle comes down or it might be your hi idle lever near your choke valve fust lift it up or down gently bike must be running to do these test let it run for a min or 2 then do it
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you either have a vacuum leak or dirty carburetor in which case it will have to be cleaned or replaced. to check for vacuum leak spray a bit of starter fluid around base of carb and listen to change in revs of engine if no change probably dirty bad carb.
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Sounds like a clogged main jet in carburetor, requires dissassembly and cleaning; or water in carb: drain carb at drain screw located on bottom of carburetor; or due to age you have an air leak caused by rotten rubber parts ie; vacuum hoses, rubber carb mounting boot etc... You can spray around these areas with aerasol carb cleaner while idling to locate the leak. engine will die when leak is found.
With due apologize, the very first thing which I would like to amend is that it is not 22 k but it is 2.2 k (2200 rpm).
To solve the problem please check the following:
- Vacuum leaks. (PCV valve, A/C idle up vacuum switch and actuator, vacuum hoses routing, gasket intake manifold, distributor vacuum dash pot.
- Valve clearance.
- Ignition system.
- Carburetor vents and lines for clogged.
- Idle speed solenoid switch and its connection. (Remove the solenoid, put a finger on its hole on the carburetor, start the engine keeping the finger on the hole. If it maintains the stable rpm replace the solenoid or check the voltage on the switch).
- Adjust the air fuel mixture.
I ran into the same thing on my mom's 89 accord.... I thought it was the choke..... but I found out it was a vacuum leak on a vacuum line.... I found it by spraying carb cleaner on hoses lines with car running it don't take a lot just spray a little and if the engine revs up more you know where about the leak is and can inspect it.... check the intake around the carb and vac lines too...
It sounds to me like there is still a pretty good vacuum leak somewhere, and you should also check for any dis-connected or missing vacuum lines on the intake manifold, at the carburetor, and the large vacuum hose to the brake booster unit and the vacuum valve at the brake booster unit for any vacuum leaks or broken vacuum lines/hoses, and they can be hard to find because cracks in the vacuum hoses like to hide on the under-side of the vacuum lines/hoses especially the hard plastic ones. Also the carburetor could be loose or the carburetor base gasket could be damaged, the EGR valve gasket could be damaged, or the intake manifold gasket could be damaged, and these are all the most likely places to suspect a major vacuum leak.
If you have a carb, and nothing but a carb, you probably need to have your carb adjusted. If your carb has an automatic choke, it could be stuck. Check and make sure the choke's butterfly valve (the one in the top of the carb) is opening up once your engine has warmed up. If it doesn't, disconnect the valve from the auto choke and manually open it, that should change idle. Do not drive with the choke disconnected. Write me back if that doesnt solve the problem.
definitely a vacuum leak. do a visual inspection to make sure all of the vacuum lines are connected. if possible, use a service manual to make sure they are all in the right places. make sure the intake manifold bolts are tight, as well as the throttle body/carburetor bolts. an easy way to check for vacuum leaks is to use a can of carburetor cleaner. DO NOT DO THIS WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT!! let the engine idle, and pray the carb cleaner around the vacuum lines and fittings. if you spray a leak, you will hear the idle go up very suddenly, or it may start to stumble and try dying. but it will be very noticeable when you do find the leak with this method.
Its vacuum hose related. Mine does the same thing. Am looking for a vacuum hose diagram so I can take off the carb..... Check your vacuum hoses for leaks by spraying something like WD-40 on them and look for bubbles.
The later 80's accords have a problem with idling being to high at start up, even when the ambient air temp does not warrant it. I have had a 86 and now an 87 accord and both did that. I pretty much deal with it, being as you cant hardly replace indiv carb parts. Adjusting the idle will do nothing to stop it either. I took my 86 to a shop when I still had it and he fixed it, but I cant remember what all he did. I know he drilled a couple small holes in the choke plate. I think that the thermowax valve is bad, but again, you cannot find just a thermowax valve or anybody who knows what it is. Replacement carb in my area is about $450. Like I said, you might just have to learn to live with a high idle at start up.