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Hi, Phillip for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your, Suzuki despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day. SUZUKI DR200SE Service Manual OEM parts for Suzuki Help Finding Marine Manuals
When reassembling the forks on a motorbike the main spring and all other internal components should be in the fork tubes then add the oil, as to weight I assume you mean fork oil viscosity. Fork oil for general use is usually 5w or 10w but you need to look up the specific oil type for your bike, also the capacity is unique to each bike but you can measure the oil by pouring the required amount into the upright tubes make sure that the levels are the same, use a straightened wire coat hanger and measure the level in each fork so that any differences are reduced so as to not affect the safe handling of the motorbike as uneven forks can be very dangerous.
Look on youtube to find videos of fork oil change etc.
If you are rebuilding your Forks, I would STRONGLY RECOMMEND replacing the fluid with Synthetic (last Longer) and is cleaner for the internal Valves... Viscosity will fine tune your suspension. you need to take into consideration your location, your riding weight and riding habits... The lower the number the more action, the Higher the number, the slower the response and harder ride but when you take into consideration Weight and Normal Ambient Temperatures... You need to dial in your own number...
To change the fork oil, look down on the lower part of each fork leg just above the axle on the backside of each leg and you'll find an Allen plug or small screw. Take this screw out, hold the front brake and push down on the front forks. The fork oil will come out of the tube. Do both sides at the same time. Once you get the oil out of them, reinstall the drain plug. Then, take the large hex cap on ONE TUBE AT THE TIME and pour the correct amount of the correct fork oil into each tube. There is a specific amount of oil that must be poured into each leg. Since you simply drained your forks instead of disassembling them, you should use what is known as the "Wet" quantity of oil. I'm pretty sure your bike takes 9.0 ounces of oil in each leg. Call your local dealer and they'll tell you how much oil to put in. Your bike came from the factory with "Type E" oil in the forks. The viscosity of the oil determines the dampening effect of the forks. Heavier oil will stiffen the front forks, a lighter viscosity of oil will make the front end softer. You can check the Internet for fork oils and they should give you a comparison of what weight oil is equivalent to "Type E" oil. I think PJ 1's 30 weight oil is the same as type E Harley oil. Use only "fork oil" in your front forks as it has special "anti-foaming" agents in it. If the oil foams up, you'll lose the dampening effect in your forks.
You need prop the bike up on front and rear stands. The fron stand needs to be the type that holds the bike up by the headtube. Remove brake calipers, front wheel, fender. Then loosen the upper and lower triple clamps. Loosen the clip ons. But before loosening the lower triple, loosen the fork tube top caps.
Drop out the legs. take off the top caps, pour out the oild, and compress the spring. I'd use a fork compressor, race tech makes a nice one. Loosen the top cap from the damping rod. Remove the top cap then pump out the rest of the oil from the damper.
Next, remove the outer dust seal. Remove circlip. Then you need to just extend the fork several times quickly to "bang" out the oil seal and bushings.
The outer bushings, if they look good, need to be gently pryed off using a thin flat head screw driver in the **** of the bushing. Same with the inner bushing. Now the oil seal, metal washer and circlip all come out together. Remember the order.
Lube up the new seals with fresh oil. put back on the fork lowers in the same order they were taken off. Replace bushings at the same time if there's any brass showing. I usually do it any way since the seals seem to go at the same rate as the bushings for me.
Once back together, seat the seals. There's a tool for this, but I usually **** the old oil seal so I can get it on the lower fork tube between the new oil seal and new dust seal. and I quickly compress (bang) the fork a few times until the groove on the upper leg is showing so the circlip will lock back on. Probably not recommended but I haven't ruined a dust seal in about 20 years now.
Fill fork with proper oil viscosity and volume (don't remember how much or weight for zx7s). cycle the damper about 20 times to make sure they're full of oil too. insert spring, re-compress, lock on top cap to damping rod. screw on top cap. reassemble fork on bike. Remember to torque the top cap with the top triple clamp loose otherwise the caps can bind.
Go to this site and you can download a free PDF service manual. There is a '76 manual there. It is close enough to your '78 to be extremely helpful as not much of anything changed in those two years. The listing just says "Suzuki GS750 ". Page 90 has a diagram. Page 93 says to mix 50/50 10w30 motor oil and standard ATF (automatic transmission fliuid) for the fork oil. You do not need to tear down the forks to install a new seal and the seal can be installed without the special tool. www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
I think you mean a VS1400 or a VS1400GLP. I don't think there is a GSX1400. Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock.www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx First, check and , if needed, change the spark plug(s), and oil. Always use the stock spark plug for your particular bike. Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Change the oil filter if your bike has one. Changing the oil acts as the "filter" in bikes that don’t have an actual filter. Lubricate the chain. Lubricate the control cables with liquid graphite, ( Lock Eze ). Make sure the tires have adequate pressure. Check the spokes and snug up any that are lose. Aim the headlight and check all functions of the bike, kill switches, brakes, etc.