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Re: Sticking Rear Brake
I guess the rear brakes system of your bike must be mechanical.
Remove the rear adjusting nut on the brake rod and thn try it , the wheel should rotate freely.
If no, thn theres a problem in the drum and the linnings.. you will hve to remove the back wheel and examine.
If after removing the adjusting nut at the rear rod it moves freely thn theres a problem frm the rod to the brake pedal.
Or it may have been tht the adjustment was too tight without a free play .
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Hi The back brake light is on, right. You need to check two things: 1 there is a spring and switch connected to the rear brake pedal. Just kneel down and look at the pedal and follow the linkage back to the rear brake mechanism. Somewhere there should be a connection (spring or wire) that goes to a switch. When you push the brake pedal down the spring or wire pulls a piece inside the switch that makes two contacts in the switch complete a connection that turns the brake light on. This switch must be free and working properly and not sticking as well. It also needs to be properly adjusted so that it will turn off and on at the right times. Most of the time this switch gives the problem.
2 Newer bikes have a switch on the front brake as well. Use the same theory and test procedure to test and fix. If it is a hydraulic clutch (they use brake fluid) there could be a Hydraulic activated switch, make sure it is working properly and not sticking.
If the rear brake is Hydraulic there could be a mechanical switch or a hydraulic switch used. Sorry for the long answer. I hope this helps. Rod
well i have one ideal on the brake pedal there should be a spring to make the pedal return.......maybe the spring needs a bit of wd40 or something similar.....if you get any dirt or grit in the brake pedel works may this is causing the trouble..........
undo the wheel spindle and take it out undo the torque arm bolt undo the adjuster nut on the brake rod ,take the rear brake plate out of the wheel take the brake shoes off, undo the pinch bolt on the brake arm, push the brake arm pivot out and clean and grease it then re assemble it.
You need to identify which brake light switch is sticking, simply unplug one switch at a time to determine the problem. It is possible that a brake light wire is chaffed and causing a problem but the most likely suspect is are the brake light switches. You can use a volt ohm meter to see if the switch circuits open and close when the brakes are applied.
The Timberwolf has a cable operated brake system, not a hydraulic so there is not a master cylinder. Most likely causes are: mud in brake drum, broken/weak return springs (inside brake drum) or a sticking cable. Take off rear wheel to access the drum, and then remove the drum. The problem should become clear. BTW..hydraulic brakes use brake fluid, not oil.
Sounds like the clutch is sticking. You may be able to free it off. Bike on centre stand, rear wheel off the ground, run engine, front brake hard on, pull in clutch and put in gear. Apply rear brake. May work,may not. Be careful to keep rear wheel off the ground.
Should be fairly easy if you are used to working on bikes in general. Disconnect rear brake torque arm from the brake housing and the lever from the cam arm (moves the rear brake shoes out when twisted). Remove the split pin from the castellated nut; remove the nut; loosten the axle pinch bolts and remove the axle. Pull the wheel back and to the right to clear the drive splines. Reassemble torque values are 77.4 ftlb for the castellated nut and 4.5 ftlb for the axle pinch bolt.