Just finished puting everything together after changing t-chain tensioners & rear head. Filled fluids, connected battery, turned key on - lights as they should be. Hit starter button & starter cranks (engine is turning over). Released starter switch - starter keeps cranking. Turned key off - starter keeps cranking. Had to disconnect battery to kill it. If I touch neg. battery cable to battery, starter cranks.I did have the starter gears off when doing the engine work. Sounds electrical to me but I don't know where to start to resolve the problem. I thought I was careful about puting everything back the way it came off. Any suggestions?
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Re: after motor work starter runs when power applied
Sounds like starter solenoid is staying energized sending continued power to starter. need to make sure you plugged the right wire from the starter button and not another hot wire w/ fulltime hot. also if thats ok need to test for power turning off to solenoid when releasing button. if thats ok try tapping on solenoid. lastly, make sure your positive cable from battery is hooked to starter solenoid, then another hot cable(longer) hooks from solenoid to starter, if you hook long hot cable directly from starter to battery, starter will continueous spin.
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obviously some people dont read the questions before they answer but my first question would be why are you wanting to replace the cam chain but that aside heres a reasonable tip for most of japenese overhead cam fourstrokes.......if you do in fact have a " master link" then remove your valve cover and magneto cover and get your timing marks lined up.Take a picture or make some marks with a sharpie or whatever you need to have a reference point for timing marks. Take 2 pieces of flexible coated wire like some heavy guage speaker wire and cut off prob 5 feet or so twice. Take one piece and loop it around the last roller in front of your link your removing and do the same to the other side. with those two tied off loosely to your frame from above remove your link. So the front side should be suspending the front half of the chain to the frame above and the rear side of the separated chain should be suspended by the other wire. Now join your new chain to the old chain hanging off the front side with your master link. remove all tension from your cam chain tensioner then your ready to do some threading. Lay your new chain off the front of the motor hanging down somewhere it wont be collecting debris. this is where you need an assistant. Have your friend hold the new chain up and off to the front and keep sufficient pressure so slack wont fall inside the motor and jam up then take the back side wire and start slowly with your right hand lifting the backside of the old chain out as your turning your magneto counterclockwise with your left hand. Make sure you and your friend keep sufficient pressure on the chain ends to keep the chain contacting the bottom sprocket. So the rear chain holder is actually pulling the old chain out and turning the whole rotating assembly with the magneto in a delicate dance till the new chain is up out of the rear casing and the friends chain is ready to get sucked into the front end. If its a dual overhead motor then drape the front slack over the front cam sprocket and have friend hold their hand ontop while the rear segment holder removes the old chain then drapes the end of the new chain over the rear sprocket then replace masterlink which should be acheivable if your cam chain tensioner was allthe way out Now reapply chain tension with tensioner and re verify all timing marks. any adjustments can be made right there between cams to line up everything. Buy your friend a 6 pack of suds and and go for a nice ride tomorrow after you and your friend have slept off the celebration 6 packs from last night. good luck
YES, and you set the chain tension with - Countershaft sprocket centerline, the swingarm bolt centerline, and the rear axle nut centerline - ALL THREE IN A STRAIGHT LINE....Use a yardstick to make sure they are IN LINE!!! Have one of your fat buddies sit on it while you adjust the chain. Make sure the chain runs IN A STRAIGHT LINE regardless of the marks on the chain tensioners!!!!!!!! I have always loosened the chain a lot, kicking the tire forward so when I CORRECTLY adjust the chain it is MUCH EASIER to make sure the chain is in straight line (you should remove the chain guard so you can see the chain), do it slowly, rotating the tire while watching the chain, making sure IT RUNS TRUE!! - Forget the alignment marks!!... then slowly get the tension correct (with your fat buddy sitting on it).. remember what 3 things HAVE to be in a straight line... snug the tensioners good - NOW tighten the axle...do not over tighten. THEN finish snugging down the chain tensioners. reinstall the chain guard. Double check the axle nut!!!!
With a chain splitter! It's a good idea to change the front and rear sprockets too so buy the lot when you're buying the chain. Loosen the tension on the chain tensioners on the rear wheel. Split the links. Remove chain. Remove and replace sprockets. Replace chain and be sure to use a chain riveter to sort out the joint. Don't be tempted to use a split link as your bike is too big and powerful for one. Adjust your chain tension checking for tight spots etc. Apply lube and enjoy!
Without being able to stand next to the machine and listen it would be very hard to say what the noise is. Valves are generally easy to adjust and if loud have a high pitched tick sound. Cam chain adjusters generally self adjust and are reasonably quiet. If the automatic adjuster goes bad it will generally make a clatter sound or a loud clack. One thing you have not considered, if the the exhaust gaskets in the head go bad or leak air, they can also produce a loud ticking sound. You often hear this sound in older V8 engines. It sounds like a lifter is bouncing around inside the motor but the sound is caused by a blown gasket between the head and exhaust manifold. If you experience some popping/backfiring during deceleration try replacing your exhaust o-rings in the heads. This may solve both problems. If the problem is internal to the cylinder you may need to change a bad cam chain adjuster. As always start with the cheaper fixes and work your way up. Adjust valves and cam chain tensioner if not self adjusting, replace the exhaust gaskets next, and if that does not fix it, replace the cam chain tensioner. Hope this helps.
The starter spline plugs into a gear that attaches to the starter gear with a skinny chain. If you pull out the starter the small gear may drop into the bottom of the motor and hang by the chain. I have talked to customers that said they pulled the starter out and the gear stayed in place long enough to put it back in, BUT , if the small gear drops out of place you will have to pull the motor and remove the rear cover to put it back together correctly. It is worth a try to simply pull it out and see if you can put the new/rebuilt starter back in. Just be prepared to yank the motor if the sprocket falls out of place.
sometimes automatic cam chain tensioners freeze up or run out of adjustment. if it's frozen up you can replace it with a new one. if it ran out of adjustment you can replace thecam chain because it stretched out or install a manual cam chain adjuster because they usually hve a little more room for adjustment.
First may I say I don't know for sure your bike model that well (In- line 4 cylinder or water cooled twin?) BUT I am very experienced with motorcycles ( I am a qualified motorcycle mechanic & have owned GPZ 550, Z650, ZIR-II ).
For starters Kwasaki have used two different methods of delivering drive from the starter motor to the engine. Gear driven & chain driven. The chain driven type ( like GPZ 900 R ) were equiped with a tensioner. If yours has a tensioner be sure to change it with a new one also.
Both of the styles of drives ( chain & gear ) incorporate what is called a starter clutch mechanism.
This is what allows drive from the starter motor to be applied only when the starter motor is activated & free wheel when the engine runs. It is a one way clutch mechanism.
I am explaining this because a verry common fault on all electric start bikes is the starter clutch. ( except Moto-Guzzi, BMW, Harley which use a car style starter with a sliding pinion ).
When the starter clutch is faulty it displays a very distinct symptom.
When the starter motor is activated, you will hear a "whizz" followed by a crunching noise rather reminicent of a chain jumping teeth on a sprocket.
If this is the case with your bike & is what is what led you to change the chain, plus is what your continueing problem is, I would suggest you check the starter clutch.
The starter clutch comprises of a drive gear(the one that the chian, or startor motor output shaft drives), 3 rollers, three springs with guide pins, & the housing plate for the rollers & springs with guides.
To effectivly repair a starter clutch it is necessary to replace the gear, the 3 rollers, the 3 springs, sometimes the housing plate if it is also worn (from the rollers moveing)
I am hopefull this may shed some light as to the cause of your problem.
If not please post a comment & I'll try to help you further.
If the cam chain jumped then the tensioner is not tight. Timing is way off and valve hit piston. Need to **** case and replace tensioner, dry time then install new piston and pull vales to see if they are bent.
Sooner or later, every bike will need a new chain and sprockets. Once a chain begins to wear, its pitch changes and wears the sprocket teeth. Then the chain begins to wear even faster. Then it's time for a new chain, and a new pair of sprockets.
The rear wheel on my motorcycle had been misaligned (I had used the inaccurate etched indicators on the swingarm-rather than a ruler against the sprocket-to set wheel alignment) and ridden hard through a gritty, salty winter. The rear sprocket was in rough shape, and the chain was making lots of popping sounds as the bike went down the road.
Changing a chain is a fairly basic job that requires a chain breaker / riveting tool and whatever is needed to remove the rear wheel and sprockets. It's nice to have a blow torch and a torque wrench on hand for this job, too.
The ingenious Terra-X chain tool is made in Australia out of tool steel, and weighs just 150 grams. A big hollow bolt threads into the bigger of the two holes, and is used when pressing outer plates onto new master links. A smaller bolt with a pin can thread into the hollow bolt, and is used to push link pins out of old chains or to peen new master link pins by pushing them against a grub screw threaded into the steel body's other hole. That little grub screw with a rounded steel end screws into the smaller hole of the chain breaker. It fits into and peens the hole of the new master link.
When changing a chain, the first step is to loosen the bolts on the front sprocket. It's good to get those loose while the chain is still on the bike, partly to avoid putting undue stress on the transmission, and partly to avoid getting deep into the job and finding that the front sprocket bolts are stuck. In this case, the small allen bolts needed a bit of heat to come undone.
After the bolts are loose, it's time to break the chain. With the Terra-X chain tool, you remove the small grub screw and use the small bolt with the pin to push out one of the chain's pins. No grunting or swearing required.
Then comes sprocket replacement. Six nuts on the rear sprocket, the two bolts on the front sprocket, and that step is done. I had a torque wrench handy, so I could get the torque values just right when putting everything back together.
The next step is the big one: installing the master link that joins the ends of the new chain together. The master link comes with a little bag with some X-Rings, a master link, and some sticky tan lube. Smear the lube on the pins and inside the X-Rings, then begin to assemble the master link around the two ends of the chain, making sure to get the X-Rings in the right spots.
Pressing the outer plate onto the master link is the hardest part of the job. I removed the pin bolt from the Terra-X tool and used the hollow bolt to push the outer plate onto the master link's pins. It took a few tries, but eventually I got it in the correct position.
After the sprockets are on and the master link is in position, the master link's pins need to be peened. With the Terra-X, the pin bolt pushes the master link pin against the grub screw's steel ball, and flares the pin. It takes a lot of effort-mostly because it's not easy to get a lot of leverage on tools when they're underneath a motorcycle.
Position the wheel for proper chain tension, torque everything to the correct specs, and you're back on the road. The new chain is smooth, nearly silent, and ready for thousands of miles of high-speed running.