Question about 2001 BMW F 650 GS

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Electrical problem with f gs 650

After charging the battery and starting it up the speed meter and the rpm meter and the clock doesnt work. they dont move . the initial check engine is ok.

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Sounds like dirty/loose battery connections. Try the FAQ's at www.f650.com

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

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1 Answer

No electrics on bmw f 650 gs


Check the battery and replace with a new one. If the battery is good, the harness from the ignition switch to the frame could be broken.

Apr 18, 2014 | 2005 BMW F 650 GS

1 Answer

2000 hd flhtcu doesnt charge battery when running


Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck

Apr 10, 2013 | 2007 Harley Davidson FLHTCU Ultra Classic...

1 Answer

How do you know if a reg/rec has gone


Hi, Derek before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Regulator Rectifier Motorbike testing blown or not mp4
Triumph Daytona 600 Regulator Rectifier upgrade
Triumph 2003 Daytona 600 Service Manual
http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2005-triumph-daytona-600-650-sump/o/m17663sch569813
Triumph DAYTONA 650 Manual

May 01, 2017 | 2005 Triumph Daytona 650

1 Answer

2005 Hyosung GT 650 R not charging


Hi, Gruntman before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Hyosung Gt650R battery not staying charged
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
HYOSUNG GT 650 Service Manual
HYOSUNG GT650 PARTS CATALOGUE Parts Catalog
HYOSUNG GT650 Owner Manual

May 19, 2017 | 2005 Hyosung GT 650 R

1 Answer

I charge my new battery and my bike runs great but the engine is not recharging it. The battery eventually gets drained and I have to start all over again.Why and how can I fix this? Its a 2000 suzuki...


If your Charging system isn't working properly it won't. Take a Multi Meter. Take the Leads to your battery. Start the Bike and run it up to 2k or higher rpm. The Voltage should increase the higher your rpms get. Up to 14vdc or about. If it doesn't go up then something in your charging system is acting up. Stator, Regulator something of that nature

Apr 03, 2011 | 2000 Suzuki SV 650

1 Answer

Original owner of my daytona 650, Ive been riding all day, sitting at a stop light, if my fan kicks on my gauges reset as if i just turned on the key and sometimes my speedometer doesnt work after the...


The rectifier that is within the charging/electrical system sounds like it is gone.It may not be , but from what you posted,it seems like it.Hope this helps

Feb 10, 2011 | 2005 Triumph Daytona 650

1 Answer

How to tell if the rectifier is bad rode for a couple of hours and started fine the last time when we started it, it was dead so its either stater or rectifier


hi,this might help,if you have a digital volt meter,take a reading across the battery at rest(key off)should be about 12.8-13.2v.start the bike and take a reding across the battery if the bike is charging properly the meter should read between 13.8-14.2-14.4v.to check if the regulater is working correctly,connect the meter across the battery and slowly lift the rpm from idle up to about 3-3500rpm,the reading on the meter shouldnt vary much more than 1-1.5v across the rev range,if the reading fluctuates up and down with the rpm(more than about 1-1.5v)then the regulater is faulty,and obviously if the battery is showing no difference from rest to high rpm then the stator is probably at fault..hope this helps..cheers

Mar 21, 2010 | 1981 Suzuki GS 750 L

1 Answer

My deauville doesnt start even after a 2 mile run


It's one of these things: The battery. Especially if you're still using the original one, which is now almost 10 years old. The charging system. Or the starter relay.
Even if your battery isn't 10 years old, if it has sat for more than a month or so without being charged, then it is toast. A fully charged 12 volt battery should show about 13.5 volts on a volt meter.
If the battery is good, then you will need to find out if the charging system is working. To do this, you will need an ampere meter capable of reading up to 10 amps. Start the engine and THEN hook the amp meter in series between the battery (either side) and the cable going to the battery. With the engine revved up to around 4,000 RPM, the charging system should be putting out at least 5~6 amps.
If it isn't the charging system or the battery, check for a bad starter relay (the thing that makes that buzzing sound when you hit the starter button). Perform this test by bridging across the two large cable connections on the top of the relay with a large screwdriver. If the starter spins when you do this, then you've got a faulty starter relay. If the starter doesn't spin, then you've got a bad starter motor or a bad electrical connection going to it.

Dec 29, 2009 | 2000 Honda Deauville NTV 650

1 Answer

BMW 650 Dakar drains the battery w grips and vest running


you have a charger thats kicking out 45 amps,,,just how much more do you need? i know the lady sayes she's cold, but realy???? why not strap a 2500watt jenny to it and she could have a kettel to make hot drinks on it as well as run the heated blanket and the **** warmer???? if you could put a bigger charger on it the motor could not turn it over, trust me,,, the only real way is ,,,dont ride it if its cold! or get some realy thick wooly knickers,, after all look at it this way,,,
have you ever seen sheep shivering??????
and there is nothing heated on them????

Nov 09, 2009 | 2006 BMW F 650 GS

1 Answer

When is turn off the swıcht rpm indicator is not comıng zero..


Battery condition? Make sure battery connections are clean and tight this is a very common problem.

Mar 12, 2009 | 2004 BMW F 650 GS Dakar

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